PS2 version of 'O' baby blue comet??????

My first repro tin plate was the O gauge Baby Blue 10-3013-1 from about 2005, plus the 4 cars. I have  nothing to compare it with for sound, but it is pretty good. I did have it returned due to a constant squeal. It was not much better when it came back, but whatever it was has broken itself in with age and is no longer there. A real crowd pleaser at shows. Has turned out to be a nice & reliable set.

 

Steve

 

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If the PS3 whistle sounds any better than my PS2 version, it must be one heck of a whistle!

 

I doubt if your friend's locomotive has the same whistle as the Baby Blue Comet but I could be wrong.

 

Thanks Steve and Doc!!!!  Especially the comment about the whistle.  Yes, my friend's was the same engine type so it's GREAT to hear that maybe the whistles are different!!!

 

I hopefully will get the replacement PS3 set today or tomorrow and I'm dieing to try it out!

 

thanks again

 

- walt

Walt,

 

The other thing to keep in mind is that you can change the sounds in PS2 and PS3 engines.  After hearing your Blue Comet I changed the sound file in my 255E to have the same whistle as your Blue Comet. 

 

MTH did make a PS2 Blue Comet 263E as part of their Tinplate Traditions line as indicated by Steve.  I saw at least one on eBay this morning. 

 

Keep us posted,

-Ryan

Ryan,  thanks for confirming that your whistle in your PS2 engine CAN sound like my PS3 version.

 

I'm almost ready to consider calling Side Track and asking them if they have a PS2 version and just to replace mine with it.  ALMOST ready, but not quite!!!

 

- walt

Most guy's I know who have the draw bar are less than pleased with it. I have the PS-2 version with the "Anaconda" tether and I have had no problems with it or the engine since 2009 when it first came out. IMO the sound in PS-3 is no show stopper as promised. No battery in PS-3 engines is good but again I've had very few issues in all of my PS-2 engines. Half the time I don't remember it's there! 

Thanks for the comments Chris.

 

I called the hobby shop Tuesday to ask them if they had a PS2 version. 

 

Talked about the status of the PS3 set that they are supposed to test and send to me if, to use Jim's words, "If he finds one that works" (of the 3 that they have). 

 

Talked about the Christmas set that they promised me I would have in about 3 weeks time, at the York show.  Not in yet.

 

Forgot to talk about the MAIN reason that I called!!!!  What a dumb *#*#.  From what I've been reading I'm now ready to just ask for the PS-2 version.

 

I have no confidence that the PS3 version will hold up.

 

- walt

Walt

 

You probably don't want to hear this but a friend of mine purchase a PS3 tinplate loco last year.  It took multiple returns to MTH to get it working.  His would run fine one session, the next wouldn't even start up.  I believe his was a the drawbar tether.

 

They got it working although interestingly enough he brought it over to run on my DCS layout and we had all sorts of issues getting it to power.

 

Good luck and I am looking forward to pictures of the layout!

Yes Marte, I don't WANT to hear it but I do WANT to know the truth of the matter.  So your comments just add to my wanting to seek out a PS2 version.  If I didn't already have the 4 matching passenger cars I might, MIGHT, look for a completely different set altogether.

 

And I have another PS3 on order - the new Christmas freight set.  ANother drawbar!

 

I'm getting nervous.  Real nervous.  I'm now beating myself up for selling EVERYTHING.  At least I knew that stuff worked.

 

Hindsight: ain't it wonderful?

 

- walt

Walt;My gut tells me you should bail on the PS-3 versions even if you have to use another dealer to get what you want. The good news is there should be enough PS-2 tinplate out there to find what you need.

 

Go to the MTH page and do a search to see who might have what you want. Look at the tinplate catalogs on line or if you have the printed version for the stock numbers to do a search.

Hi Walt,

Sorry you're still having issues with the tin plate. I will say on behalf of PS3 that after my initial drawbar problem was fixed it has become the pride of my fleet and a real joy to run. I have two nearly identical PS2s that I also like and as Chris says really don't notice the tether. I have noticed with the PS3 that it will crawl at very low speed through switches without a hitch if I want it to. The PS2s hesitate on occasion. Don't know if that's a supercapacitor advantage or just coincidece.

Scott

You guys are starting to scare me. I have the O tinplate girls set and have had no issues, but it's only been run a few times. I have a O boys train on order as well as a std gauge Pennsy passenger set.

 

Steve

 

I asked Side-Track on Wednesday if they had by chance a PS-2 'O' tin-plate baby comet.  NOPE.  For whatever reason the guy claimed one was never made.  But, thanks to you guys on this forum, I know that's not true.

 

I don't know if they would be willing to take back the PS-3 version and reimburse me.  But I would only want to do that if I could find a PS-2 version.

 

When I get the new set from them I'm going to run it exclusively on a loop that has 2 42" curves and 2 54" curves.  I'll run it for a week in both directions before I try anything else.

 

I KNOW from Ryan proving it that the PS-2 version can easily handle my 27" curves.  I've had my PS-3 version run a test loop at the hotel at York which had 27" curves and it seemed OK.

 

Chris: given that I have zero trains right now and it's so close to the holidays, and given that I only have a Christmas layout, it's going to be hard to 'bale' and try to find replacements that I WANT, not just that they are available.  But I am keeping all doors open at this time.

 

And Scott - thanks big time for the positive comments!!!

 

thanks all - walt

I have a PS-2 set from Tinplate Traditions.

 

My Blue 263

Thanks Doc.

 

F&G RY: No tether??????  PS-2???

 

Yeah, like I said, I knew that one existed from the replies that were made earlier in this thread.  Maybe the guy at the hobby shop (Jim) is new and didn't know.

 

He mailed my engine Thursday so I should be testing on Friday or Saturday.  Can't wait!  But, believe me, I will be nervous!!!!!!!

 

- walt

tethered.

The MTH photo could be a conventional version.

Walt,
Can't speak for everybody but now you've got me on pins and needles.  Seriously if it's really the drawbar it's either a loose connection at the cab end or the tender. If it's the tender you just need to seat it really well as mine comes loose after a lot of running. My initial problem was the cab end connection and that was hard for the sellers tech to diagnose. He actually fried a board trying to find it. Ultimately he used a little epoxy to keep it secure and no trouble since.

 

We are all "pulling" for you! Keep us posted!

 

S

At $26 a clip to mail it I hope this is it!!!!!

 

I'll keep your comment about it coming 'loose' in mind.

 

thanks - walt

I don't know about the drawbar.

 

I have two PS3 locomotives:  A Green City of Denver and a Red 400E.  Both run well.

 

The 400E does not have much time on it (it should get a lot of time at Cal Stewart in a couple of weeks), but the City of Denver does.

 

No problems so far.

I don't think the PS-3 is the issue itself especially the on 400E and The city of Denver where all the electronics are in the engine/power car. The problem seems to be "tinplate or non tinplate draw bars on the steamers. I've got PS-3 in my Presidents special and I haven't had any problems with it.

Glad mine has the Big Ugly Wire.

That tether-less drawbar has to be seated fully and tightly.  I attach mine with the locomotive and tender resting on their sides in a foam locomotive cradle, but you could also use a folded towel to prevent any damage to the finish.  Much easier and more reliable than trying to join the locomotive and tender with both items on the track.

 

Once I have the tender and locomotive joined, I leave them joined, even for transporting on or off the layout.  I have had no problems, to date, with those drawbars, and I certainly like their appearance as compared with that fat tether that is on PS2 models.

 

Also, tethers--or the lack thereof--is one of the reasons I prefer electrics (and diesels in the "regular" O line).  No tethers at all to deal with.

Allan: laying the tender and loco on their sides is the ONLY way that my clumsy fingers can make the connection.  Thanks for suggesting it though as any and all  comments are welcomed by me.

 

- walt

I take 3.5 inch wide strips of pine about 2 ft long and cut grooves equal to O wheel width along the length with a table saw. To move the loco/tender combination I place the board on the track near the engine and plop it on the board and the wheels drop right into the grooves or just need a nudge or two. Now you can carry it around and shelve it without inadvertently twisting the connection. Makes it much more convenient to transfer steamers on and off the layout.