Advice appreciated!
Advice appreciated!
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The PSC "1945 steel reefer" was based on a Pacific Fruit Express R40-14. Other steel reefers of that era were similar. PSC imported a number of PFE reefer classes including an R30-18, R40-3, R70-2, and R70-4. An interesting postwar PFE reefer block can be modeled with PSC models augmented with lower cost yet accurate Intermountain/AtlasO R40-10's, Red Caboose R30-12-9's and Lionel R40-23's. Athearn's kit of one of two PFE's experimental aluminum R40-18's can add further interest. In reefer orange, the Athearn model also stands in nicely as an PFE R40-14.
PFE paint and lettering schemes went through a large number of evolutionary changes through the decade following WWII and can add further diversity to a reefer block. I’ve found Pacific Fruit Express by Thompson, Church, and Jones to be one of my most valued and interesting prototype reference books. It has a wealth of information about PFE reefer classes, paint schemes, facilities, and operations.
Ed Rappe
Brad
I've used PFE decals from both Champ and Microscale. For paint I use Scalecoat I on brass, Scalecoat II on plastic. I prefer Scalecoat’s higher gloss finish to Floquil’s on cars I’m going to apply wet decals on. I mixed colors to approximate the reefer orange and freight car red found on Intermountain's factory painted R40-10. Based on photos in the PFE book, reefer orange faded noticeably and since the cars were not washed, they really got dirty as they approached their repaint cycle. That reminds me I should do a little more weathering on most of my PFE cars (I've been using Floquil weathering colors) some day.
Ed Rappe
Ed,
Do you prime brass cars first--- If so, please describe a process you recommend!
Thank you,
Brad
Brad
The PSC cars come with a clear or gold lacquer finish that serves nicely as the primer. I just hit it directly with Scalecoat I. After painting I bake the car in an oven at 175 for about an hour. The baking process seems to yield an even glossier finish for wet decaling than air drying. The next day I mask the reefer and spray the second color. After applying the decals I seal them with a clear finish such as Dullcoat. I spray the Dullcoat with an airbrush as it gives me more control and a better finish than I get with a spray can.
If you are going do a fair amount of painting I strongly recommend investing in a vented spray booth along with a good mask.
Ed Rappe
Brad
The PSC cars come with a clear or gold lacquer finish that serves nicely as the primer. I just hit it directly with Scalecoat I. After painting I bake the car in an oven at 175 for about an hour. The baking process seems to yield an even glossier finish for wet decaling than air drying. The next day I mask the reefer and spray the second color. After applying the decals I seal them with a clear finish such as Dullcoat. I spray the Dullcoat with an airbrush as it gives me more control and a better finish than I get with a spray can.
If you are going do a fair amount of painting I strongly recommend investing in a vented spray booth along with a good mask.
Ed Rappe
Ed, again thanks! I have a good buddy who has a professional printing firm with spray, vents etc. I will shoot 'em there with his fella.