Question for those who are Handlaying

I tweak mine too.   Basically it's just pushing on the side of the spikes with needlenose pliers to nudge the rail over a tad.

Jim

I tweak mine too.   Basically it's just pushing on the side of the spikes with needlenose pliers to nudge the rail over a tad.

Jim

Try using a metal ruler and spiking down one rail then use the track gauges to spike the other rail down.  My 18" General brand drafting ruler has served me well in that capacity.

 

Greg

Tweaking as is necessary to keep at least both rails in parallel and in gauge is about all I worry about achieving.  36" steel rule, 1 rail at a time, gauges in place - I think that I just used a bit of wood lathing between the rails at times.

 

Perfection is not actually necessary; if the cars and power roll and work, then that's generally enough "tweaking".  Swearing is optional however combined with drinking is contributory to progress.

Chris,

 

Pretty much a basic rule (no pun intended) to get anything in a line is (as Greg E. says) a metal straight edge, even for flex track!

 

Cheers,

Simon

Ok,  thank you guys I appreciate it.  I will try using the straight edge in the areas in question.  I don't mind a small bit of wiggle, after all I am not going to be running the bullet train.    Martin...you are quite right.  Heck maybe the track is straight and I'm just a wee bit crooked..

I had the same question a few years ago and the answer I received was to use a piece of aluminum, !" by 1/8" by 6'.  It is available at almost any hardware store.  Make sure the piece you buy is straight.  Position the aluminum straitedge with 1" brads.  Spike one side of the rail every 8th tie.  Remove the straight edge and spike the other side.  Then go back and fill in between the spiked ties.  Works for me.

Regards,

Ed

Depending on the size rail being spiked you can inadvertently introduce irregularity from the side forces of setting the spikes in place. I once handlaid a bunch of code 70 in HO and there was precious little truly straight track after spiking.

 

Also consider Ed Ruetlings approach...he is practically famous for his photo of some back alley industrial trackage he handlaid which looks positively decrepid, and wonderful for it's undulating irregularity.

 

A straight edge is a reasonable tool Chris...as others have noted, but ones eyesite is the best tool for sighting down the track for it's straightness value.

 

Good Luck with it.

 

Bob

I put my ties down with a straight edge. Then I have a plastic gauge that has a corner notched to set the rail from the end of the ties. Lay one rail and gauge off that. I can post a pic when I get home. Ken the guy from AR

Ed I like the idea, I am going to have to try it and see what happens. 

 

Bob I remember that work by Ed R. It was a beautiful mess of track, the entire scene was great.  I am going to try the straight edge and Ed's suggestion above.

 

Ken that sounds great, I would love to see a photo when you have a chance.

 

Thanks for all the input everyone, it helps and I appreciate it.   

 

 

 

No straight edge needed here...and I am considering cutting my rail into scale 39' sections!

 

Matt

This is a pic I made of my track laying tools I made for a friend.  I made the big roller gauge it works very well.

 

Ken  the guy from AR

 

 

Matt now that would be very cool to model.  There isn't a straight line in sight..

 

Ken thank you for the picture.  I like the roller gauge, that is a great idea.  I am using 3 point gauges & NMRA gauges.  I think I am going to go and fab up a gauge out of aluminum flat stock similar to what you have there, I like the notched end for the correct space from the edge of the tie.

You can't count on a roller gauge I always use them along with three point and spot check with a NMRA gauge as I spike Ken the guy from AR

CWEX,

One thing I forgot to mention.  I use a mirror held on the rail to check for straightness.  It beats trying to get your eye down to the rail.

Cheers,

Ed

I second that method...every model railroader needs a small piece of mirror for such use and many others.

First time I heard of using a mirror was something used with John Allen's work.

Another help is to use T-pins from the local "Office Despot" to hold the first rail in the line you desire. First spike that rail many ties apart to establish the direction, give it the eyeball test, tweak the installed spikes as needed then come back and spike every 4th tie or whatever you desire as your personal standard.

 

Roller or 3-poiont gages can be a big help to hold the second rail in gage ahead of the area you are spiking. I don't know anyone who sells O-scale rollers commercially but I made some for use by friends on the A&O track gang. One difficulty with roller gages is that they should be custom made with grooves to match the width of the rail head you use, and also gaged to match the standard practices of the layout owner when he employs other gages such as the NMRA. I've observed that some hand-layers run the NMRA as a hard minimum go/no go gage and spike the track close to the tight side of tolerances. Others might try to run the middle of the tolerance. Both are technically correct but two gages that conform to different uses can produce frustration, just as "a man with two watches can never tell the time!"

 

All the best.

Bob

 

PS: If I can figure out how to include images from my Smugmug account just as I used to do very easily, I'll add some photos to what I described. So far, for me, this new forum has been one step forward and three steps backward...

Hi Ed, I never would of thought of the mirror, great idea.  I think I will try that also.

 

Hi Bob I do have the T-pins and will have to start using them.

 

Thanks so much for all the help everyone I do appreciate it.