Re-decaling a tender

If it is pad printed, i.e. painted on, instead of decals, you may have quite a problem.

I have in the past been able to remove pad printing from model trains. The issue is you get one side off clean and then on the other side you go through the paint and now you have to repaint. It all depends on how heavy the ink, type of ink etc used. I just strip them ans repaint now.

PS if you want to try get some 91% or higher alcohol and Q tips and carefully rub the lettering. TRY AT YOUR RISK!!

Don't use Q-tips, they are too abrasive. Try lacquer thinner and a soft cotton rag. I would take some super fine sand paper and use it to just break the outer paint coating. Then use the thinner and very gently rub, mostly soaking the lettering with the thinner.

Of course there's a way to cheat the whole thing. Cover the lettering with black decal paper. Then make a bigger decal and place your decal over it.  You could also use a permanent black marker and cover the lettering and then decal over it. You have a lot of options.

Scott Smith

Poly Scale Easy Lift Off (ELO) will remove pad printing. What you will have to determine is if it will also remove the base paint as well. I know its safe for the paint used on modern Williams and MTH paint but haven't tried on modern Lionel paint yet. I would try it on the inside of the shell first.

BTW I have always used Q tips for this and never scratched the paint. YMMV

Pete

What I usually do is wet sand down the lettering, taking extra care not to go all the way to bare metal.  I then will apply 1 or 2 coats of black paint.  Apply my waterside decals.  1 coat of semi gloss to blend the decals in and then apply 2 to 3 light coats of a dull coat.  

You can skip the dull coat if you are not gong to weather or do not like the weathered look.  Semi gloss is almost the same sheen as factory paint.  

Thanks guys for the tips, ill give it a try.

i've just removed pad printed lettering with solvaset and a pencil eraser