Why is it that REAL TRAX bumpers won't work with REAL TRAX switches. They make the switch throw if their installed on the curved part of the switch.
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It's because the bumper's outside rails are probably tied together which trips the non-derail on the turnout. Check the underside of the bumper to see if there's a wire or metal strip between the outside rails and remove it. The wire for the lighting needs to go to the same rail that will be connected to the stock rail on the turnout (the one that doesn't go through the frog.) That SHOULD do it.
Thank you Matt
I though that was the problem. The thing is that this one of many things that I have run into with MTH that don't work together with out some changes. I mean how many times would you put a bumper on a siding off from from a switch,DA!
thank you MONK
I just had a idea. Why not just bend the connector on the outside rail that is floating so its not connected to the track going to the bumper. That way the siding can have the outside rails common via the bumper.
I pulled the track loose from the switch, to be reminded that there is no connector on that outside rail from the switch,but the end of the rail of the switch & the end of the rail of the track are touching. Ill use dremial tool to fix that. Those bumpers are often used to make the two outside rails common for more contact to the train. I have also done this by using lockons on booth sides of the track.
thanks again, for getting my mine working MONK
I just had a idea. Why not just bend the connector on the outside rail that is floating so its not connected to the track going to the bumper. That way the siding can have the outside rails common via the bumper.
That'll work. You can probably just put a piece of electrical tape on the contacts to keep them from touching.
It is floating, becouse the sw doesn't have a connector on that rail, but the rails
were touching. so I put tape between them.
thank you MONK