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I take a small wooden block and wrap/staple a piece if emery cloth to it. A couple of strokes on the top rails removes all corrosion so the track looks bright and the trains run fine. As for rust on the side rails, it doesn't impede anything. IMO it looks good and adds to the realism.
Look up evapo rust. Can be found in most automotive stores. It's safe to use, won't take the plating off or discolor it. You can even leave the fiber insulators for the middle rail on. It won't take any oil or grease off, though. You might have to get a cleaner for that.
I make a layout using rusty tubular track and then run a train around it until the top of the rails is shiny. I set the E unit to forward only while I am doing this. I also may use the end of a tie as a scraper to scrape off any heavy rust. Much more fun than any other way.
Throw it out and buy new track. Not worth it.
I have bought a lot of O-31 track that was somewhat rusty and made it usable by using the train to clean it. I have enough O-31 track that replacing it and the 022 switches with new stuff would cost thousands of $$$. Some of the track I have had for 60 years.
BTW, to make a good connection between track sections, hold the track section with the pins pointing away from you and bend the left rail where the pin is installed to the left a little, and bend the center rail to the right. This will put pressure on the pin where it contacts the inside of the mating rail. Works much better than Lionel's recommended method. You can do this method much quicker than Lionel's method, and when you take the layout apart, you don't have to do it over again like you do with Lionel's method.
traintreasures,
SJC's answer sums it up, "Throw it out and buy new track. Not worth it".
To this I'd like to add the following,
It comes down to this question. What are your goals? Are your intentions to run conventional or one of the command systems? If you're planning anything other than conventional I recommend that you discard the track. An investment into new track will help prevent sleepless nights hunting for a problems. New track DOES NOT cost that much to begin with. To invest many hours in cleaning and scrubbing may not be worth your time. Once again..If the track is as bad as you are making it out to be. It is not worth your time. If you still insist on re-using the old track see my solution below.
The easiest way to to this method is to wait until your wife will be away from home awhile...Load all the track into your dishwasher making certain that it is evenly distributed so that it will wash and dry completely. Add your washing agent. Set your washer for extended wash with the hottest water. If you have a heated dry assist turn it on. Turn on your dishwasher and allow it to completely cycle. Allow the track a little time to cool before you remove from washer. It does work! I've done it for years to track that can be saved. It also works on switches. Be sure you remove the switch motors. Between the very hot water and the detergent (which does contain acid) your track should be very clean. One last thing. Be sure you return all dishwasher settings back to their original state.
If you are going to run powered units with sliding pickups, such as the various hand cars, I recommend going with new track. I have found that rusty track that has been cleaned up will be pitted. The rough surface caused by the pitting will create drag on the sliding shoes, slowing the unit down, and causing excessive wear on the slide shoe.
Electrolysis is a method used by museums and professional restorers. It does not use acids, and actually uses the process that causes rust, to remove it. I have used it on track, tools, and scrap material with great success.
Larry
My test track is pre war O gauge. I painted the rails with aluminum paint and after it had dried I cleaned the rail head with a scotch brite. Seems to work just fine even with the plating long gone.
Pete
try WD40
David56
About 10 years ago I had 10 large rubber maid storage totes full of tubular track that sat in a train room where the ceiling leaked, this track was RUSTY!!!! I took it to a local chemical dipping and coating place called Applied Coating Technologies and they hot dipped it to remove the rust. there was like 6000 pieces of track and they got it shiny clean then they dipped it in a rust inhibitor to keep it from re rusting. Worked awesome and only cost me $300 to get essentially a pickup truck load of track done. And it was $300 because that was the minimum charge. The process didnt affect the tie pain or the paper insulators
CLR cleaner.
the big problem here is the corrosion inside the track where the pins make contact. if it is corroded inside then surely throw it away, it will just cause headaches and maybe even a fire.
I used something called Naval Jelly to remove rust and tarnish from some pre-war tinplate track that had belong to my dad. It did a fairly good job although it still looks like old track. I would avoid using even the finest of emery clothes, #1500 grit sandpaper or whatever.
SJC, There was once a process used to treat the track produced by, Lionel NY. This process was called, "Tinning". You really should Google it and read up.
The tubular track of today is as different as night and day. There's not enough room here to explain the differences nor do I feel it necessary to do so. All of this has been documented over the years in articles by TCA, TTOS and the various model train publications. Take the time and read.
I clean only the top of the rails with a scotch bright pad. Then I replace all the track pins with new ones. Make sure the new ones are tight and crimped into position and that the receiving ends are also tight. I like the look of slightly tarnished and rusty tubular track.
Forgive my ignorance, but what is Lionel 'NY'?
Hoppy
He is referring to the markings on the ties.
The Lionel Corporation was originally in New York City. They stamped NY on the ties of the O-31 and O-72 track when it was manufactured in NJ. They also put "MADE IN U.S. OF AMERICA THE LIONEL CORPORATION NEW YORK, NY" on many of their products.
'kay. Thanks.
Hoppy