Hi, finally going to paint my basket case 726. Everyone recommended Krylon 1613. Do I need to get a can of primer too?
Thanks,
Matt
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Hi, finally going to paint my basket case 726. Everyone recommended Krylon 1613. Do I need to get a can of primer too?
Thanks,
Matt
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Primer will help you find any odd or uneven spots on the casting......
And help the paint stick a little better.
I have had best luck wtih off the shelf walmart primer!
It works real good!
Ben
Cool! Thanks a lot Ben.
Matt
It certainly wouldn't hurt, but I don't think they were originally.
Krylon Satin Black is my recommendation and I second the use of primer. I completely striped a 2046 and re-painted it using Satin Black and it looks like it was painted by Lionel.
Mike
Mike, so satin not the 1613 flat? By chance do you have pics of yours?
Thanks,
Matt
Make sure you use compatible paints. By brand isn't always enough. By paint type.
Most primer can take any paint...most.
If its metal clean with a solvent, then keep your fingers off it.
A satin is a very light gloss, a haze. Flat is flat.
Flat paint and primer do differ.
Primer is often softer, easy to sand.
Paint has more topcoat qualities in durability. Its wont "powder" under touching leaving traces on your hands.
Thin coats of DARK primer. Hopefully black. It will allow a thinner topcoat. And it will change tones in colors going light or dark.(some light makes it there between pigments and reflects back.)
Just enough primer to cover evenly in color.
Primer adheres better normally too.
Sand very lightly with very fine paper, or fine scotchbright and clean.
Those light scratches give the topcoat something not super smooth to hang on to. (you are cleaning dust from the grooves)(clean out paint dust corners with a clean paint brush too.)
Lacquer is thin but good. Enamels are tougher, chip less, but are harder to "fix" if they do.
Lacquer should not be put over other paints. Its 'hot" and the solvents eat almost everything not glass or metal. It will also "pull" as it flattens and dries.
#1 cause of cracking/gator skinning is a dissimilar paint combo.
Oh YEs.
It is the SATIN that is the one to use not flat or glass
I agree with the above posts
Somewhat related, when restoring these locomotives, what is a good match for the silver paint Lionel used for the numbers? I've seen stamps that match the typeface on eBay, but no answer as to the paint.
Somewhat related, when restoring these locomotives, what is a good match for the silver paint Lionel used for the numbers? I've seen stamps that match the typeface on eBay, but no answer as to the paint.
Usually the dealers that sell the stamps also sell the ink. I use the water based ink sold by Olsen's. Some dealers offer solvent based ink. Some folks just use solvent based testors.
This 675 had a bent roof, smokebox, and pilot. All straightened. Paint used was PJ1 Special Satin without primer. Hand stamped with Olsen's ink.
Pete
Morning everyone,
I myself don't plan to weather it.
My shell has been bead blasted, so it is very clean and has "micro roughage" for the paint to stick to.
I have Olsen's ink and stamps to use.
I already bought Krylon 1613 per the many recommendations for it. Guess I need to reconsider it. Just ordered it too. It's in the mail on it's way.
Mine had a broken cab corner we reattached with JB weld. It came pretty good. This engine was the worst I have ever seen for filth and overall roughness. So it was a great candidate for my first restore. I will put up pics when done. I had to run the shell and whole frame through the dishwasher on super hot several times just to get the 60 years of crap off. I swear it must have been sitting right above a deep fryer in a bar. It wasn't just dirt on it, but like cooking grease.
I had the nickel drivers cleaned at a jewelry shop. Have all new drive rods, handrails etc. Have all new bearings, brushes etc for motor as well.
No matter how it comes out, it has to be better than it was.
Thanks again,
Matt
Norton, the 675 looks great. I would love the same result. I looked up PJ1 special satin, but it looks like there is a million of them. Which did you use?
Thanks Matt. Its called Special Satin Black 500 degree engine case paint. It will also have a big "S" on the front. Here is an example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PJ1-50...-11-OZ-/351094258835
You should be able to find it close to you. Many motorcycle shops stock it.
Besides being close to the correct sheen it is also very durable and will easily stand up to normal handling.
Pete
Cool, I just ordered it off ebay. I live in the middle of nowhere in Upper Michigan so nothing is close to me except mosquitoes and deer . Which is the way I like it! Except for the mosquitoes, and ticks, and blackfies, and, and, and.....
I have the Krylon 1613 coming too, but no big deal. I will use it on frames and stuff.
Matt
Have the dunes "turned black" yet?
Oh..more importantly, do you have any Con Culhane info? An old word of mouth story?
(have I asked before?)
Sorry, but my decoder is broken. I don't get a word of what you are saying. Something related to Upper MI?
All good info here but what do you do to replace the numbers?
All good info here but what do you do to replace the numbers?
Middle of the thread, it's discussed above. They're stamped from factory, stamps and ink/paint are available.
I have used The Krylon 1613 and my favorite is the SEM brand auto trim paint. I have painted with primer and without. As for numbers I use J& W I think it is, that is rub on transfers. The rubber stamp thing will drive you nuts before you finally get it right. Valspar tractor implement black is a good match but hard to find now.
Rob
Sorry, but my decoder is broken. I don't get a word of what you are saying. Something related to Upper MI?
Sorry, with the mention of the black flies. I figured you had seen it at some time or another before. The sand dunes would turn near black with them about this time of year. Id come home with blood running down my face & neck from fly bites sometimes.(you cant really feel them)
And Con Culhane "Mr Railroad" (Culhane lake) was a logger that started a railroad mostly supplying Calumet & Helca with lumber around Munising. He moved his rail road & two trains across the cedar swamp to near the Taq. falls, south of Paradise, & started the Shelldrake lumber mill. He moved in in the winter while everything was solid ice, to avoid bedding the track, pulling up rails behind & moving them to the front. Falling and using whole trees as ties as he went.
A small guy, but decent boxer, if you wanted a job you had to fight him. Win or lose you got the job.
His reasoning "A man that will fight for a job is likely to work to keep it too"
I used to listen to the old timers logging and RR stories in awe.
I'm trying hard to make contact with someone that knows these stories even better.
But I cant seem get up there often anymore.
I really want to know what type of locos he had. Especially "The Ellen K" named for his wife, But I cant even lock down the business name of his RR, gauge, or if the lumber mill its self owned the trains.
I have a theory about that from another story, but I could fill a page or two so...he died in 1903 falling under his own train.
I see now. There are still a few old historians left. Check with the Michigan Tech website for info. I'm sure they will help.
I live between Marquette and Houghton. I know of the Calumet and Hecla.
I know blackfies too. I was a logger for many years, unfortunately. I now am a logging road builder for the Mead Corp.
Matt
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