Repainting question (Lionel ALCO C420)

Good starting point loco/scheme. Truck side frames are removable (typically 2 screws) once the trucks are dropped - also usually pretty simple.

But, with modern, high-quality flat acrylic paints, a small brush or two, and a little

patience, you can paint the side frames by hand and skip truck disassembly. No brush

marks.

I just painted one of my Lionel Empire State Express Hudsons in it's later "Mercury" service scheme - the silver paint was replaced by NYC dark gray. I brush-painted the drivers, brush-mark-free, in one coat (over silver) using a high-quality gray color flat acrylic from Hobby Lobby. A little touch-up after they dried. Done. Patience.

This paint was not the "cheap" (but also useful) 99-cent craft acrylic; it was in the 

Testors, etc., section. I forget the brand.

Thanks D500. That would be great if I could avoid taking the trucks off. I will give that a try. I already have the decals which includes the yellow strip so it should be fairly simple. (I know famous last words...)

Jay in Ottawa

Guys,

Now that I have the loco and am ready to gomahead with the repaint I have a few more questions: 

1. Do I need to strip the original paint from the loco shell?

2. If so can anyone recommend a good product for that as I have seen many conflicting answers?

3. How do I remove and re-attach the windows in the loco?

4. Any special considerations as it is a TMCC loc and has the wires attachin to the antennae on the shell?

5. Recommendations for paint for the shell? I have read on the forum to use gloss then decal and then a clear matte finish. Any tips or favourite brans would be great.

I know that is a lot of questions and I appreciate everyone's help as always.

Jay in Ottawa

if thats a OEM finish=factory finish? just scuff it with a red scotch bright pad..then use rubbing alcohol to whipe off any dust dirt and oils off of it.I've been using automotive paints on my trains..last longer and durable ..that what real trains are painted with.for that i would use base coat clear coat paints on it..first paint the yellow..then tape the yellow off then paint the black..after that put your decals on it..then use flat or semi gloss clear on it..me i do my stuff in gloss clear to have it factory new look.rolled out of the paint booth/shop looks... i paint cars for a living too. 

Jay....removing the windows can be tricky. I've tried prying them (carefully) off and had mixed results. I've used a hair dryer to warm up the glue with some success, as well.

I try to detach all wires.....mark them ....paint....decal....finish coat....the re-assemble.

As far as paint.....I like Weaver's ScaleCoat ....use the one for plastic.  I've also had great success with Krylon..... Flat Black in your case.

As far as stripping off all the paint....I've used everything mentioned on this forum. I try to remove all numbers and lettering with alcohol and a fine abrasive. I then use a primer....usually Krylon Ruddy Brown.....if after 2 light coats you don't see any  trace of the former makings, put it aside for a day, then paint....wait a day or 2....decal.....finish coat after decals set. I still use dull cote and gloss cote by Testors. Not cheap, but good results. Good luck and please share your finished project. This is my favorite part of our hobby....I'm not as good as Jeff Sohn or Dave Minarik (King Mouse at Mercer Jct.) or Bother Love (Rev. Malcolm Byrd) or other professional grade modelers, but I'm having fun! Lynn Sontum has also shared some secrets with me, as has Kurt Kissner. I just try to "drag where these guys plow". Tom in PGH

To remove windows and detail parts I use Z-7 Debonder.  Quickly softens glue and then you wipe it off ASAP.  It will remove some of the paint inside the shell but I have never had it harm the windows.  You don't need to use a lot of this stuff.

If you decide not to strip it, make sure you have removed the original lettering and numbers. This is what makes the difference between a first class paint job and not so good. Looks like any satin black or near flat may work. You are correct in making sure that you apply decals to a shiny surface first, then semi gloss or flat clear coat. You may want to include the use of Micro sol decal softener to make the decals conform to all the surfaces before clear coating.

Rob

Thanks for all of the replys. I will use your advice and keep you posted on how it turns out.

Jay in Ottawa

Jay,

I recently got thru striping a MTH PS1 boxcar and a Weaver PS1 boxcar, there's a thread going on the 3RS forum about it:

https://ogrforum.com/d.../lastReply#lastReply

I haven't ever tried this on a Lionel engine shell, so maybe others will chime in, but so far the brake fluid hasn't had any effect on either car body.

I don't know how thick Lionel applies their paint, but if it's anything like what MTH does you're better off removing the old before applying the new.

Apply the new paint, if it's a flat paint you need to apply an overspray of clear gloss (Testors Glosscote) next, apply your decals, then follow it with an overspray of Testors Dullcote.

Floquil makes some nice thin paints that will let the details stand out.  Applying more coats of paint over old paint will only make details disappear.

if you sand those letterings.put a light coat of primer over those areas so you wont see the outlines of them..

Are you interested in trading your D&H shell for a Monon shell. It's mostly black.

Al W.

Al,

Thank you very much for the offer but I would have to repaint it anyway due to the yellow.

Jay 

The last time I tried spraying clear coat over flat black it looked bad. I would think you would want to paint it in gloss black,apply decals, THEN apply the semi flat or dull coat.

Rob

your wright..but i do my stuff in automotive paint you use a spray gun with..i do my stuff in base coat clear coat system,the base color drys dulls/close to flat.then 45mins later i apply the clear on it....but if im doing stripes or flames or graphics i have a 4-5 days open door to clear over my base colors..make sure your paint will work with eachother or you can have a bad reactions ,,like paint lifting on you..