OK, I’ve had some time to play with the new RS11’s so here we go…
Please bear in mind this is not a rivet-by-rivet review, just the observations of an average S Scale model railroader.
My model is the DC scale version.
First, overall, the RS11 is a very nice model, a high point for American Models. It’s by far the most detailed locomotive they’ve put out.
Now, what you get is a generic RS11 with dynamic brakes and no road specific details. Missouri Pacific units, for example, had no dynamic brakes and didn’t have the d/b assembly on the roof or the six square grills on the side of the hood. However, this doesn’t detract from it being a fine model (at least for me.) I don’t have any drawings to compare to, but comparing the model to prototype photos online, the model overall acquits itself very well.
The paint is absolutely wonderful. I could find no overspray and the pinstripes are crisp. The classification light are highlighted in silver paint and are not illuminated.
The ends of the locomotives have molded in MU hoses, wire grab irons and coupler lift bars. Handrails are plastic, presumably Delrin or some such similar flexible material. Headlights and number boards (on both ends) are illuminated in direction of travel by a blue-white LED. The intake grill on long hood has pretty nice detailing cut in.
One of the “little things” is the air horns have some conical relief molded in rather than flat ends of previous models. A little thing, to be sure, but it make the horn casting look so much better.
The fuel tank is plastic and is held on very securely with one screw. I don’t know if it’s empty, filled with weight or carries the Lost Ark. I tried removing it, but wasn’t able to do it without damaging the screw head, so I let it be.
There are two pins near the rear of the air tanks that hold the body onto the frame. As with other AM hood diesels, simply spread the body away and remove the shell.
Once removed, there are no surprises (other than the personalization to my evil twin… I suspect AM had the drives ready for preorder customers, waiting for the shell to arrive.) The standard, dependable AM drive mechanism reveals itself. Any command control installation is at the owner’s discretion, but I would like to see AM start including an 8-pin DCC plug eventually.
The only real difference is the headlight regulator boards have been moved up into the noses rather than sitting on the frame. Two wires for the headlights lead to the motor terminals. If I have to go back into these for servicing, I’ll probably put a connector on those wires to fully separate the shell.
The coupler pads are partially cast through for mounting Kadee 802’s. They have to be drilled out from the top, so the shell has to be removed anyway. Once installed, coupler height matches the Kadee gauge.
Running qualities are no different than any other previous AM diesel locomotive. Operation is smooth, slow speed is adequate for most tastes and there is the slight “growl” typical of AM locomotives. One of my units us ever so slightly faster than the other, but they do run well together. The RS11’s MU with earlier AM diesel with no problems.
I think AM has a real winner on their hands with the RS11. While somewhat of a throwback to the 1980’s in mechanical design, the RS11 will hold its own with current contemporary models and give decades of dependable service out on the road.
Rusty
