Thanks Chris!
I looked at a lot of online stuff, read some books and PDFs, and figured out it's like everything else in this hobby, taking the first step is the hardest part.
It takes time to put in all the spikes, but once the first rail goes down the rest falls in line. Preparation is the key, making sure each piece of rail is cut, beveled, trimmed, before it gets spiked (don't ask how I found that out!). The templates showing where to put things makes it easy. Placing the frog point in the precise location is a must, but it's not hard to determine.
All I used was my Dremel/bits, a file, spike pliers, gauge, straight edge, ruler, soldering iron for the frog points and throw bar, and head worn magnifier. I looked at the tools some places offer to make these easier, but add them up and you're spending several hundred $$$ on specialty tools for a single use. Sure I have 17 more to do, but they'll get easier, the 2nd was easier than the 1st and looks/performs much better IMO.
Commercial turnouts are anywhere from $75 up, I guesstimated 1 of these homemade turnouts cost under $25, especially if you make the frog from rail like I did on the 2nd one.
A bit over 2 lengths of rail, bag of ties, spikes, and other bits (like brass for the throw bar) most modelers will have around their workbench.
The reasons I did this was:
1) Wanted a longer mainline to run my passenger trains, hopefully we'll see the GGD Silver Meteor in the not to distant future.
2) Wanted to see if my engines and rolling stock with hi-rail wheels would navigate thru 2-rail turnouts and track before I tore down my old layout and started expanding in 2-rail. I'm 95% sure they will. Remember, I'm running off battery power remote control, non-insulated wheels don't affect that. I love not having any wiring!!!
3) Wanted a yard to store freight cars.
In order to do this I'm in the process of clearing out 2/3 of the upstairs space. Once done then I can proceed with the new layout.