Ross switches - do I buy DZ1000 or DZ2500?

MWAX516,

I do not use TMCC to control my DZ 1000 switch machines on my Ross switches. I did have a couple of the DZ2500 switch machines. They both burned up the same day I installed them on the layout. The DZ2500 has a bad reputation. Steve at Ross even told me years ago when I bought several switches from him not to go with the DZ 2500.

Another disadvantage of the DZ2500 is that there is no ability to manually throw the switch machine. The DZ1000 has a manual throw bar.

It has been many years since my experience with the DZ2500, and maybe they have improved over the years. Maybe someone here on the forum has had a positive experience using the DZ2500. For me I will stick with the 51 DZ1000 on my layout. The DZ1000 has occasional issues, but over all it is a very reliable switch machine.

Hope this helps,

Richard

To my understanding the DZ2500 will work better with TMCC, But the DZ1000's are much more reliable  

All my switches are Ross with DZ1000's and they are fantastic 

Alex 

I did a project for the Fort Pitt High Railers using DZ 1000's and added the TMCC control with a Lionel SC-2 controller.

Y- module project.    Click on the underlined phrase.  

Mouse-over the image and click on the triangle to access a video.  Ross 204 3-way switches matched to existing #5 Ross switches.

I have 20 Ross switches on my layout with the dz2500s.  The 2500s were fixed from the first release and are currently on revision c.  All of mine are revision c.  For the most part they are ok.  I've had a few minor problems with the switches.  I sent the switch machines back to Zstuff and he repaired them for me.  The biggest advantage to the 250ss is the ability to work with TMCC without the need for SC-2s.  You buy ONE datawire driver and connect all your 2500s to that.  You can then command control all the switches.

From what I hear, the dz1000s are a more stable switch and you can throw them manually, which you cannot do with the 2500s.  If you want command control the 2500s are more cost effective than buying several SC-2s.  The 2500s are not a perfect switch machine but I would not replace mine.  Overall I think they are OK.

The dz1000 is a much better switch machine whether you are using tmcc or not.   You can connect up to 50 dz2500's on one data wire driver but good luck trying to find the problem if one of those switches hang up the wire.  All of a sudden you have 50 inoperable switches that you cannot throw manually.  Use the sc2 with the dz1000 to save some headaches

Thank you guys for the responses! I guess I am now leaning towards the DZ1000 switches, however I hope it's not too difficult/confusing to have it work with my tmcc controller? Or I have to buy the sc2 controller? Sorry for all the questions but I have no idea what I'm doing LOL 

I use the DZ1000 on my layout. 61of them to be exact and with no problems.

The dz2500 is a great idea for operation and simplicity of installation, unfortunately they are also the most unreliable part of the layout. As noted when 1 goes down it may take the entire network of switches with it leaving you with an inoperable layout.

DZ 1000.  Straight forward wiring and less cost.  With TMCC control, one SC-2 set up properly for all switch operation can operate 6 switches.  SC-2s are not given away so you do have that cost to consider as well.   The number of remote operated switches needed may require a second SC-2.   Even this added expense may be justified when you compare the cost of the DZ 1000 vs DZ 2500.  And, you may end up with 2 TMCC controlled Aux out for lights or some other function off the SC-2 for some neat things on your first layout!

SC 2, that I pictured, is operating (6) switch functions, (4) of the six, are crossovers, (8) switch motors.   SC2 as wired is controlling (10) switch motors.   Also wired are (two) sets of (7) DZ push buttons. 

X 2

Only one switch pictured, in the video, is not TMCC controlled, the Y-switch right off the TT. 

Best wishes with your project, Mike CT

Electric Railroad just came out with a new circuit board to improve and simplify the wiring of DZ2500 switch machines. There is an announcement in the latest issue of the OGR Mag (June-July 2016), page 74. You can call ERR at 408-454-4127, talk to Ken he should be able to give you more information about it.

RAY

Yes you can operate the DZ2500 manually if it is powered.  Since one generally has switches powered separately from the track, you can just turn on the switches' power, and work on them throwing them manually with the button on top.

Having said that, they are unreliable.  I have a lot of them so it would be costly to change them all out.  So I just deal with them by eyeball to see if they really threw all the way, or not at all, every time I hit a button.  This is getting hard to do with my aging sight.

Dennis

I use the DZ-1000 switch motors with my Gargraves and Ross switches, they work very well. I have had one DZ-1000 go bad out of 30 in about 10 years time, so not bad in my opinion.

The DZ-2500 costs more then the DZ-1000, so that's why I went with the DZ-1000.

Lee Fritz

Switches have been the biggest pain on my layout.

My track is Lionel O, so I bought Lionel O72 switches. Big mistake!

I changed them out to Ross with DZ-2500’s,  Mistake #2!

I upgraded the 2500’s to 2500C’s, better but still not great.

My advice would be to stay with the DZ-1000.

I bought some Lionel O gauge switches in the mid 1990's and they were my worst mistake!! The 6-23010 series of O gauge switch forced me to go to Gargraves switches with adapter pins. 

If I need a replacement switch motor, DZ-1000, I order them from Ross Custom switches.

Lee Fritz

Dennis posted:

Yes you can operate the DZ2500 manually if it is powered.  Since one generally has switches powered separately from the track, you can just turn on the switches' power, and work on them throwing them manually with the button on top.

Having said that, they are unreliable.  I have a lot of them so it would be costly to change them all out.  So I just deal with them by eyeball to see if they really threw all the way, or not at all, every time I hit a button.  This is getting hard to do with my aging sight.

Dennis

Dennis,

We've had ones where they suddenly start flopping the lights red/green and won't work or others that will just do nothing no matter how many times you push the switch button. We'd go back to the 1000's but doubt we'd get a huge refund for exchanging Not sure if it is the software or construction or design. In theory a slick piece.

BobbyD posted:

The dz2500 is a great idea for operation and simplicity of installation, unfortunately they are also the most unreliable part of the layout. As noted when 1 goes down it may take the entire network of switches with it leaving you with an inoperable layout.

I'm pretty sure that the latest rev of the machines won't do this anymore.  I have the 2500 and when the older versions fail, Zstuff swaps them out.