Santa Fe steam era caboose

The santa fe version is available on a limited basis through MTH dealers.

 MTH makes a pretty nice version in 3 rail that can be converted to 2 rail if need be. Here's one partially converted with Walthers caboose trucks. The funny thing is MTH didn't offer these in the ATSF mineral red paint at the time so I had to re-paint another road name. If you want a better version you could look for a brass model but it would cost a lot more....DaveB 

Pecos River Brass is by far the best in my opinion.

I own many of them in a variety of eras from wood to steel; wigwags to round roof.

You can do this to a MTH cab, easy conversion.

 

Thanks for the responses guys! PRB is definitely gorgeous (just saw a different road name on an auction site) but very pricey. Also I'm more ready to run than modeler, but can handle simple jobs like trucks and couplers and wiring. 

 

Brother Love, what did you have to do for your conversuon of that MTH unit?

Jay,

It is pretty much stock except for some new brass end railings, wig-wag signal and screens. The only major revision I made was new scratchbuilt steps. I did like the stock steps because the crew had to step up about 7 scale feet to get to them. It is painted ATSF brown and lettered with Microscale caboose decals.

 

Malcolm

I think the K- Line simulated wood caboose was also an ATSF caboose.  I realize we are talking rtr plastic here, but Lobaugh made a very nice ATSF, as did Max Gray.

BL you do beautiful work, but that's too much work for me. I just can't believe that none of the big boys have done this in O. Not like it's some obscure prototype or some little road name.

That just goes back to the thread on "Road Specific Details"....

 

The big manufacturers like the 1 for all and all for 1 approach with their models because it's much less expensive. Build 1 plastic shell and slap everyone's road name on it. Simple and inexpensive. Just like roof top details on diesels... extra molds, extra parts, and extra employee to stick those parts on. Why do it when people buy them as is. That's why we have guys like Malcolm (Brother Love) that do what they do

 "I just can't believe that none of the big boys have done this in O."

 

  Well MTH is about as big as the boys get in O scale. There's really not much wrong with the MTH model that can't be fixed but if you want more fidelity to the prototype in ready to run form  you need to go with the smaller guys like PRB or switch to HO or N scale where there's more incentive for the manufacturers to produce more road specific RTR models.....DaveB

Sorry for my confusion Daveb. From some of the other posts I thought that MTH made cabeese in other roads that could be repainted and decalled for ATSF. After searching a bit, it appears that there are at least a couple MTH caboose that could work with just a truck/coupler swap. Will have to take measurements on the superman leap required for entry.

"After searching a bit, it appears that there are at least a couple MTH caboose that could work with just a truck/coupler swap. Will have to take measurements on the superman leap required for entry."

 

    H Jay, Do you want a 2 rail model or a 3 rail scale model?  The MTH model is pretty good as is for 3 rail, just needs the correct paint scheme( which perhaps MTH is offering these days, don't keep up with the O models since I've switched to S scale?)  If you want it in 2 rail form you'll need to add some 2 rail trucks and couplers which is not too hard with a little practice (I'd much rather change trucks and couplers than re-paint and decal a car) ). I built a new wooden underframe and steps for my model (see photo)but there are easier ways to do it. The other way to go for a 2 rail car is watch ebay till something you like shows up, PRB or old Lobaugh cars are pretty common and can be re-sold for about what you pay for them if you decide to sell them, probably a better investment than modifying an MTH car when you consider your labor time......DaveB

If the "big boys" are Lionel, K-Line, and MTH, then two out of three is not bad.  But the really big boys of 2-rail O Scale have made bunches of ATSF cabeese.

Nice work Dave! I'm definitely looking for a 2-rail model or a nicely done 3-rail model that can be painlessly converted. 

 

Bob, your point is well-taken. I keep hoping Atlas will do one. They are usually pretty close to scale, and the volume they do with 2 and 3-rail combined keeps price at a more comfortable point.

 

I was really hoping that having a preference for 2-rail would not necessitate having to choose between a $300 caboose and scratch building. That was the reason for my original question. 

You mean not converting the MTH or K-Line?  You really should try the conversion - all you need is a wood strip or so, some trucks and couplers, and glue and wood screws.  Very satisfying for very little effort.

 

I looked for photos of mine - will try maybe tomorrow.  I think I have maybe six ATSF cabeese, and I am not a Santa Fe modeler.

"Nice work Dave! I'm definitely looking for a 2-rail model or a nicely done 3-rail model that can be painlessly converted.'

 

   Thanks, wish I could post a photo of the finished car but I sold it unfinished when I decided to switch to S scale.  I think you can find a nice ready to run car at a reasonable price if you are patient and persistent in your search. If you don't over pay you can usually re-sell a nice car for as much as you paid for it. I'd look for early brass or PRB cars for a while and get a feel for the pricing.If you find one with a good paint job that's another bonus in time and money saved.....DaveB 

It doesn't; there is middle ground as noted

You mean not converting the MTH or K-Line?  You really should try the conversion - all you need is a wood strip or so, some trucks and couplers, and glue and wood screws.  Very satisfying for very little effort.

However, if you are determined to rely upon Atlas, etc. to make what you want to avoid such an effort, you may be in for a very long wait.......

LIONEL 1946

 

Take heart !

 

I was in the same position last year wanting 2 or 3 scale ATSF cabeese. I had the MTH, but wanted better. I watched EBAY for 8 months every day and snagged two beautiful 2 rail scale  Santa FE cabeese and a complete Lobaugh ATSf brass caboose kit. Total cost around $270 for the 3.

 

Watch every day and be patient and you'll get what you want at a reasonable price.

 

Ron H

Here is the K-Line.  Except for the trucks and paint, this is dead-nuts ATSF:

 

Here is the Lobaugh - these are ranging upwards of $150 even in kit form, so maybe the Max Gray model is a better choice.  I believe the MTH steel ATSF is still the best choice, but I do not have one.  The catalog photos look like it is accurate.

 

Here is the only picture I have of an MTH Steel ATSF caboose (way car) I modified.  The are very close and with some mods can be made much better.  I have taken this caboose further but didn't take pictures. 

 

If you want to do the modeling, you can follow the links etc on this web page to properly enhance the MTH steel cabooses.  The MTH 2 rail caboose trucks are a decent replacement and more accurate than the NYC styled 3 rail trucks.  Other than that, the only thing that needs to be done is to reposition the trucks inward if so desired.

 

http://atsfrr.com/Reviews/HO/F...IMRCaboose/Index.htm

 

 

I think Max Gray and Sunset made brass Santa Fe cabooses.  They show up on Ebay every so often.

Email sent regarding an MTH santa fe caboose I can sell you.

 

Ron H

If that MTH is full scale size, that is probably as good as it gets in plastic, and dollar for dollar the bargain of the O Scale caboose world.  You can tell from the photo it has better detail than the $150 Lobaugh?

I had my friend repaint an MTH caboose from bright red back into Mineral Oxide Red the I purchased MTH  two rail trucks from ebay. I fashioned PB wipers for the trucks and run it on my 2-rail DC. Looks great!  I am using Gargraves track and run AC on the same track so I can't use the MTH caboose. For AC I use an Atlas plastic extended vision cabooses.

Pecos river did a great run of At school wood and steel cabeese.    I favor his 1930's version, but the later are swell too.  I have the series and they are really well done, the wig wags are also a cool aspect of the models.     May gray's are actually quite appealing and can be sourced for about $150-180.

Maybe I am not understanding this correctly.

 

Could you explain more about why you cannot run the caboose on AC? If it is an electrical problem, you could put a bridge rectifier after the pickup wheels and any lighting system you have would be happy on either AC or DC.

 

Howard:

 

I have to MTH ATSF steel cabooses I'd like to switch over. What trucks are those under yours?

He probably just likes lights in his cabeese.

 

I have about 30 feet like that - I can hook power to any rail I want, and run almost anything O gauge.  I long since converted all but the Dry Gulch switcher to 2- rail, so it is sort of wasted now.

 

Some hobbyists conflate AC with 3-rail.  AC is now pretty much a nostalgia thing for model trains, as is the center rail.  MTH pretty much proved that one can use DC on 3-rail, but nobody does so.  Why is just one of those questions - we have to convert to DC someplace in all modern toy trains.

 

Opinion.

I have to MTH ATSF steel cabooses I'd like to switch over. What trucks are those under yours?

 

Matt, I took the easy route and used MTH 2 rail Bettendorf caboose trucks.  To me they looked good.  (Sorry it took a bit for the reply.)

 

http://mthtrains.com/20-89015

Howard, it is good to see you posting again. 

I missed ya buddy.

Looking at DaveB's caboose way, way above makes me feel like capturing one of these and adding it to my very small collection of plastic cars.  I think the MTH is the best bet.

Thanks. Going to grab a couple of pairs.

Bob2,

How did you 2-rail the K-Line caboose?

Thanks,

Ed

Change the wheels and add Kadee couplers, right?

HW,

Is that all there is to it?

Thanks,

Ed

Well, no- I will have to look, but what I usually do is get some good wood, fashion a center beam to receive trucks and couplers, and drill and thread holes for attachment.  The caboose is at the airport right now, but I will look - I believe the end platforms are so lacy and fragile that the wood receiver for the couplers is necessary.

 

My trucks are simply sand-cast side frames with an insulated central bolster, and wheels insulated in the center.  That way my interior lights have four wheel pickup off of each rail.  The wood center beam (or indeed the plastic caboose body) would enable simple 2-wheel pickup.

 

Not to drift too far afield, but the average scale plastic freight car needs lots of help with the center beam.  Let me see if I can explain:

I was wrong.  The K-Line caboose has steel plates under the end platforms, so I just drilled and tapped them for 2-56 screws.  I apparently machined brass plates to serve as center beam extensions.

 

Here is a photo illustrating the difference between Hi Rail and scale center beams.  Both are MTH, the one on the left is missing center beams so the truck can go around O-27.

 

 

One of the variants of "naked underbody syndrome",