Scale hand rail

I would suggest that you first measure the hole diameter in the PSC stanchions. You can do that be trying different size small drill bit shanks, then measure the one that slips cleanly through the whole, with a pair of digital calipers.

 

Then you know for sure exactly what size brass wire you need to purchase. I don't know if Hobby Lobby caries various sizes of brass wire, but my local TrueValue Hardware stores does, plus my local hobby shops do.

 "If so, what am I looking for?"

 

   Does it need to be soldered? Brass wire is easy to solder but bends easily if hit. Spring steel model aircraft control wire wire is stiff but harder to solder. There are other metals that might be a better combination of stiffness and solder friendliness but they might be harder to find. As for size of wire look at a photo of the real loco and estimate the handrail or whatever part it is diameter then divide by 48. One inch handrails would be .021 in O scale, 1.25 inch would be .026 , etc....DaveB

You might try that, but almost all of the PSC castings that I've used are not very clean on holes and cored castings; most often though the PSC catalog does state what size wire or what size hole is supposed to be there.  PSC sells wire as does several other sources such as Clover House and Tichy.  You might look into Tichy as their wire is actually phosphorbronze and bit more rugged than brass.  I tend to use brass wire from Detail Assoc. that I manage to get from many sources like Crusader Rail, Rails Unlimited, various hobby shops, etc.

Used guitar strings could quite possibly work. My guess without having a set for size reference would be the third string, especially in a heavier set. The sizes are marked on the strings, and can be purchased separately. Speaking of strings, I have to pick up a set for this weekend's Christmas concert.

Don

K &S .032 brass wire is what I use - you need to clean out the stanchions with a #63 drill in a pin vise (I think).  I have used the stronger steel wire, but find the brass is more than adequate under normal conditions.  For a smokebox front you want wire that is a bit easier to bend.  One thing you do not want to do with brass wire is to heat it with a torch until it glows.  When it cools down it will be annealed, and have the strength of the same size wet noodle.

Thanks, all!

I did get my PSC stanchions and I think that I will use the 373s.  I was in Strasburg today and I picked up .020 (#8159) Brass Rod.  I fits perfectly inside the stanchion hole.  Where do I get the drill bits to make these micro small holes? Thanks again.

Drill bits can be purchased at your local hobby shop, if you have one. Otherwise, Micro-Fasteners or Micro-Mart should have pin-vices and all sorts of drill bits.

"Where do I get the drill bits to make these micro small holes?"

 

    Small bits usually are sold in sets that include #61-#80 bits( a #75 bit is about.021" for example). I like the sets that come in a round holder with a plastic dome cover, they cost a bit more but are easy to use and seem to be good quality bits. When I break one I replace it with bits sold by the number by small tool  dealers, buying the most needed bits in lots of 10 or so is much cheaper. If your loco is plastic it will be no problem drilling a hole for .020 wire but if it's diecast or other metal it can be very difficult to drill the holes without breaking bits. If there's a model railroad club or old school train store near you I'd suggest a visit and some instruction before tackling tiny holes in metal..DaveB

Thanks.  I am assuming this would work?  http://www.micromark.com/20-pi...ndex-61-80,7050.html

 

Dumb question, but what does a pin vice do?  Would I use it instead of a Dremel?

 

In a pinch, you can use a brad nail with the head cut off as a drill bit. 

Don 

That depends on the material you are drilling into, and what diameter hole you are looking to make. That idea works well with wood, but I sure wouldn't try THAT on diecast metal.

Micro-Fasteners or Micro-Mart should have pin-vices and all sorts of drill bits.

Not familiar with Micro-Fasteners. But-there are drill bits and then there are really good drill bits, such as jewelers use. You might look at these:

 

http://www.riogrande.com/Search/drill-bits

Sounds great.  Given the application (drilling 3 small holes into a boiler front), is there a pin-vice that you would recommend that might be on Micromark's website?  

 

I do have a couple of pieces that I can practice on.  

Yes, one frequently needs the smaller range drills - 0.020 brass; need a #74 (could go a size smaller..) to get a bit of clearance for the brass to pass through the stanchion.

 

I have several sets of #75-61 bits as I use those very frequently and then have packs of 10 of those that I use even more frequently; probably have 6-8 pin vises...  I have another set of #60-40 bits, but they do not see a lot of use in comparison and generally get used in either the one pin vice dedicated to larger drill bits or in my smaller drill press

While I am sure .020 wire is close to a realistic scaled-down handrail, I bet it will not match the other handrails on your model.  I am not making many models lately, but I have done a number of fairly good ones in the past, and my minimum was roughly .032, and even larger for other pipes such as condenser lines.  It is the same with rivets - my rivets are invariably oversize for artistic effect.  Someday I shall find my 4-10-2 smokebox photo for you - all handbuilt except for the hex bolts and door dogs, and .032 handrails.  Photobucket is losing my photos, so no photo this time.

I did find this one, but you cannot really appreciate the handrails from this shot. 17/64 scale.

 

Here is my first attempt to modify an engine.  I removed the oversized hinges and grab irons and replaced them with PSC stanchions.  I weathered the entire engine with chalk.  Brian Wowak did my M1b and did a great job.  I just thought I would try my hand at it.  Thanks to Brian and everyone else in this thread for your help.