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965A565F-CB37-4E3B-8E89-E5188DEDFF8F

I’m in the design phase of a new scratchbuilding project, an ALCO C-415.   I know many people think this is a mutt, but it’s always been one of my favorite diesels.  As with my PRR G38/39 ore jennies, Erie DUNMORE Caboose, Seaboard Pneumatic covered hoppers, and a few others I haven’t posted here, I’m using a combination of traditional styrene and metal scratchbuilding techniques, with the assistance of a laser cutter, 3d SLA resin printer, 3d filament printer, and a CNC router.   I’ve been drawing the body to laser cut most of the shell, with 3d printed hood ends, and details.   I thought I would design the shell and worry about the drive mechanism later, but realize that I really need to work that out first as I need to design the plate primarily, and the cab to some extent, to fit the drive.  

A little more info - I plan on initially building three of these diesels as they were offered in three different cab height configurations - A Southern Pacific Hi Cab version; Rock Island Standard Cab, and a Monongahela Connecting RR. Low Cab version.   The SP and RI were delivered with standard B road trucks, and the MCRR came with ALCO Hi-Adhesion trucks.   I believe can handle the different truck side frames with CAD and 3d printer, and also some sort of truck frame, so what I am looking for are suggestions on how to make it move.

I have an old Weaver tank drive RS3, with center tower, that runs decent, better with new wheels/axles/gears, and the trucks are correct, however, I was hoping to avoid the tank drive thing and my question is, can I convert the trucks to dual tower drives, by adding a tower/chain just inside of the outer gearboxes.   Or do I need to mount outside where the u coupling is for the tank drive?    I’d like to keep inside if I could.    Assuming I could mount inside, I assume I will need new shafting, swivels, and dual shaft motor.    But with only one RS-3 to cannibalize, I would either have to buy the gearboxes and axles, and towers from P&D, or go with something entirely different?   I’m trying to keep the drive/motor/gearing to around the $200 range per loco - is this unrealistic?    I’m new to this, so open to all suggestions, criticism, and miscellaneous 2cents.  

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I think a drive from P&D based on the Weaver design would be less than 200.   the most expensive part will be the motor.    I think these drives, or the weaver drives are great the way the are.   I have a bunch of the RS3s and and FAs and I like them and they all run good.    Initially I had some broken/split gear problems but once past that, it rarely happens.    I think miost if not all RS3s were converted to End tower using the P&D conversion kit.

I have fiddled with those drives a lot and  used some to power Atlas C425 dummies and MTH RS27 dummies.   I think the chain tower will fit on the inside using the original weaver/P&D bolsters.   I will take a look.   It might limit the radius curve it will go around, but still probably 48 inch.     The P&D conversion kit for repowering the Red Caboose GP9 kits was a double shaft motor and gear/sprocket towers at each end.

Jim, all of my Weaver drive equipped engines are and were dual tower drives.

very simple construction. Parts are off the shelf. Use a dual shaft motor.

if you want to take it a bit further. Use cog pulleys and belt in place of the sprockets and chain. Quieter and smoother. You can also use the NWSL replacement gearbox tower conversion offered. Especially if you plan switching.

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