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I have noticed that when I buy small screws at Radio Shack and online at micro-fasteners, the #2 variety offered always 56-thread.  However, when I used them to install Kadees on mth 2r engines, I noticed that they torque up after a few turns in the thread.  Comparing them to the included screws that MTH puts with the engine, it appears that those are a finer thread.  Maybe 64?

 

I also noticed this when I tried to swap out trucks and couplers on Atlas 2-rail stuff.  

 

Is it me, or should I be using something other than the 2-56 machine screws I can get at the above mentioned places.

 

Am I missing something here?  What are you all using and where do you get them?

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All of the MTH diesels I've encountered so far use the metric screws (2mmx8), but I did find an MTH odd-ball. The recent-issue Gunderson Twin-Stack cars had holes for 2-56 screws. First impulse was to use 2mmx8 screws. Turns out they were too small and too short with the spacer in place (I still have the hi-rail wheels in place...for now).

 

Like Doug, I try to keep a few sizes of small screws for Kadee installation -- 2mm, 1-72, 2-56. Need to get some more 3mm.

Suggest that whatever size you use be it 2/56 or 2 mm that you establish one as your standard and lay in a stock of those screws (blackened, if possible) along with a few appropriate taps and drill bits that match.

 

All of my equipment is 2/56 by my choice.  If it arrives otherwise, it gets converted to 2/56.  None of this silliness of keeping these screws for that importer, for that sort of car, etc.  1 parts tray of 2/56 that has blackened screws of 3 lengths in it (buy them in lots of 100) and if it's too long, then cut them off to what's needed.

I use socket head from Micro Fasteners.  If the heads can be seen, I use hex head.

 

The socket head are far easier to deal with - if you try them, get the matching ball end driver for a couple bucks more.

 

Like Martin, I use only SAE screws unless absolutely necessary - just to keep the confusion down.  But Micro Fastenres carries both.

Originally Posted by Bob Delbridge:

I've been using #2-56 Button Head Socket Screws:

 

They're low profile with a black finish.  I get them (and the ball driver) from Micro-Fasteners.  I buy packs of 1/2", 3/4", and 1" lengths.

I used to use those Button Head Socket self taping screws, but never could get them tight enough. Now I use only regular straight blade screw driver type screws (both self taping and machine thread), no mater what color they are. I paint the whole coupler box assembly after installation anyway, and the do the axles at the same time.

Jack, the ones I order are  not self-tapping, just regular 2-56 machine screws.

 

I did have trouble with them using a standard flat bottom allen wrench, but after getting the ball drive it's been almost trouble free.  I have stripped out the head of a screw or 2 but 98% of the time things go fine.

 

Most of my stuff has been done in some sort of acrylic plastic, not sure how they would do with metal thicker than 1/16".

 

Yeah, I need to splash some paint on those red boxes

The button heads and 0-80s use the same hex key.  Many years ago, the fit was perfect between Allen wrenches and these things - the screws are aircraft alloy.

 

I have no idea what happened, but the ball end driver from Micro Fasteners is ever so slightly larger, and doesn't easily slip in the smaller socket screws.  I suspect the screws are no longer made in the States, and the broaching is not as accurate.

 

A Challenger has 24 screws holding the pedestal binders in place.  First thing I do is pull all the brass slotted screws and replace them with socket cap screws.  Heavy maintenance then becomes lots easier.  The 2- 56 screws will stay on a cheap Radio Shack Allen driver as you maneuver to insert.

Originally Posted by Austin Bill:

Rest of the story is ......

 

 I have been using blackened 2-56 machine screws, washers and nuts for years for kadees and other uses and have an ample supply.  Delrin, too.  Have all the taps, drill bits, etc.  All the stuff needed. 

Then you don't need 2 mm screws!    Venture forth and standardize! 

Same here.
 
Originally Posted by mwb:

Suggest that whatever size you use be it 2/56 or 2 mm that you establish one as your standard and lay in a stock of those screws (blackened, if possible) along with a few appropriate taps and drill bits that match.

 

All of my equipment is 2/56 by my choice.  If it arrives otherwise, it gets converted to 2/56.  None of this silliness of keeping these screws for that importer, for that sort of car, etc.  1 parts tray of 2/56 that has blackened screws of 3 lengths in it (buy them in lots of 100) and if it's too long, then cut them off to what's needed.

 

Easier yet - Put "2 mm screws blackened" into Google and you'll most likely end up at Amazon where there is a ridiculous array of choices, such as:http://www.amazon.com/Steel-Alloy-Knurled-Screw-M2x10/dp/B00O9Y3ATG/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1447002856&sr=8-16&keywords=2mm+screws

 

But then I have zero use for 2mm and just convert those holes to 2/56.  I might however like to get 100 of the above as 2/56,

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