I just started restoring a Lionel #8 and would like to replace the brushes. I didn’t realize until I took it apart that the commutator was inline with the shaft and the brush face is curved versus being flat and perpendicular to the shaft. I wanted to know how do you shape the brush so it’s concave shape? Do they make them pre-shaped? Do you use them flat and run them in? Do you file them? What is the correct brush? I see 2-17 on Hennings and brush 75 on Olsens parts diagrams. Thanks in advance for your help.
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I've always just stuck them in, if they need that shape, they'll figure it out on their own.
Thanks for your experience and reply. Do you know if the 2-17 brush is the correct style?
Not 100% sure, but I'd trust the Henning's Trains guys as they know way more than I do about older Standard Gauge stuff! You can also call them if you're not sure and ask the question.
2-17 is correct. They will 'seat' themselves as running time is established.
PLEASE NOTE!!! If you are going to run the old trains (pre-war), take the time to run a bead of epoxy around the back side of the copper commutator where it butts up against the wiring. It is especially critical on horizontal commutators such as the # 33, 38, 42, 53 etc. This will save you agonizing over paying $50 - $75 to have the armature repaired due to a segment coming loose and getting ripped off by the brush. Harry
Rich, you just heard from the authority on these, I think you can take that one to the bank.
I use the 622-121 diesel brush and a round file the same diameter as the commutator and file the slot off the center so it will orient itself with the spring on the flat side
Harry thanks for the reply and the advice on the epoxy. I will incorporate that into my rebuild plans.
Jon thanks for your insights, I will give that a try during my rebuild and see how easily I can contour the brush.
Gunrunnerjohn thanks for your follow up.
DO NOT try to contour the rolled copper mesh brush. You will regret it! This is from experience! Copper/carbon can be contoured....but why? they will seat themselves.
Harry is right, epoxy on drum commutators is a VERY good idea!
Thanks Rob for the feedback. Sounds like you may have experienced your own armature/commutator self destruction.
Have you applied epoxy yourself? Any concerns with the armature being out of balance, if not applied evenly?
Just apply it evenly! Truthfully, unless you really slather it on, I can't imagine you getting it that far out of balance.
Rich Wiemann posted:Thanks Rob for the feedback. Sounds like you may have experienced your own armature/commutator self destruction.
Have you applied epoxy yourself? Any concerns with the armature being out of balance, if not applied evenly?
Sure have. Balance is not a factor... too little weight differential and too close to the shaft to make a difference. You'll want to be neat and even all the same.
Bob hannon. Makes his own barrel.. I have never had a problem with the original barrel coming apart. But I have heard about it.
Hannon. As far as I know will not rewind an armature with an original barrel.
Some photos of the epoxy mod would be helpful.