ERR Upgrade Project

The MTH smoke unit should work in your Hudson, I've put them in a variety of Williams locomotives.

Looks like 1 3/8" tall, 1 1/2" long, 1" wide, and the top shot shows you were the stack is located.  You'll need the brass funnel as well, that's what I use to solder my brass stack extension to.

Thanks, John. Looks like I can go ahead and order all the components I need this weekend.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

The MTH smoke unit should work in your Hudson, I've put them in a variety of Williams locomotives.

Looks like 1 3/8" tall, 1 1/2" long, 1" wide, and the top shot shows you were the stack is located.  You'll need the brass funnel as well, that's what I use to solder my brass stack extension to.

 

 

That small size is great. Would you be so kind as to give the actual MTH part number

No problem Ron, it's AA-0000070.

I had a few more questions about this project I am working on before I start ordering components:

1) This schematic from the Super Chuffer II manual is for the Super Chuffer, Chuff Generator, Cruise Commander, and "idle smoke intensity."

(see attached file)

1) That's an optional configuration with extra components to achieve an additional effect, that being lowering the smoke output when you're stopped.  The relay is the Axicom IM06DG.  The bridge rectifiers are 1.2A rectifiers.

2) The Super-Chuffer handles a single LED for the headlight.  I'd run the second ashpan glow direct from the TMCC headlight output, just add a resistor.

3) The resistors in the MTH smoke unit are replaced using a single 20 ohm wirewound 2W or 3W resistor.  I put the single resistor in the holes closest to the stack.

I've actually done a separate board since then to give me a more universal capability for smoke intensity control.  This is how I do it nowadays.  I actually used up the blank PCB's I had or I'd show you a real picture, I have to order more.

Thanks, John! What is a good source for the 20 ohm resistor?

I take this 5W resistor: Stackpole CB5JB20R0.  I put it in the vice with the points on each side clamped and squeeze it.  The outer ceramic shell flakes away and I have a perfect 2W 20 ohm resistor for the smoke unit.  In quantity 10, they're 38 cents each.  I use these as I want the uncoated resistors, and they're hard to find.

Interesting. I never would have thought of removing the coating. Thanks!

John, I am converting a MTH diesel to TMCC so does this resistor change apply to my conversion too? One more question while I am here can I use a Super chuffer on a PS 1 smoke unit? The ceramic resistors were a great idea; I put one in my Atlas and it worked out great especially for 58 cents.

If it's a PS/2 smoke unit, you need to change the resistors.

PS/1 has no chuff signal, the sound is generated on the board, so the Super-Chuffer is not compatible with those.

John, thanks and it is a PS 2.0 smoke unit so I take it that I need to change the resistor.

Yes, and you'll also need 5V power for the fan if you aren't adding a Super-Chuffer.  I put a single 20 ohm resistor closest to the stack exit hole.

Thanks much.

The MTH Smoke unit finally arrived at my LHS this past week, and I am getting ready to install the electronics soon. One quick question for you, John. Why exactly do you change the resistors on the unit, and is it a necessary step? Just curious. Thanks!

It's mandatory to change the resistors, not doing so will result in a lot of smoke for a very short time and then you'll either be replacing the smoke unit PCB, the R2LC smoke triac, maybe the whole R2LC, or maybe all of the above.  I would not have mentioned it if it were optional.

Okay. Thanks, John!

Just wanted to ask a quick question on this topic again. I haven't done any work on this project in a while, but am gear up to hopefully get some progress done in the near future. What type of wire should be used for the locomotive: solid or stranded? I seem to remember hearing that solid works best for locomotives. Thanks, and I will be sure to post any updates on the project!

Stranded. G

I'm with George on this one, I don't use solid wire much in locomotives or rolling stock.  The exception is fine #30 wire to hook up LED's in passenger cars, easier to hide and it doesn't have to move after installation.

Okay. Thanks George and John!

Two more questions, and I'm sure I'll think of more. In preparing for the upgrade, I've been studying the ERR, Super Chuffer, and Chuff Generator manuals. This raises two questions:

1. I previously asked about stranded vs. solid wire. Now that I know I need stranded, what gauge should I use for the upgrade. The engine has some stock wiring that I was planning to reuse (for hot, ground, and the motors) which is 22 gauge.
2. The second question is really just to make sure I understand this right. On the wiring diagrams in the super chuffer/chuff generator manuals, the superchuffer has the posts on the right side with 1 on top and 10 on the bottom. I just want to confirm that this corresponds to the orientation of the board I have photographed (sorry for the glare but its still in the package) with the posts on the right.

Hoping to get this upgrade going in a few days, just a few more parts to get first. Thanks!

None of the wiring to the Super-Chuffer needs to be #22 wire, it can be as small as you like, I typically use #26 wire.  There are no high currents going from ot to the board.

The square pin on the Super-Chuffer is pin 1, you count from there.  That's spelled out in the documentation, a copy of which is attached to this post.  I think the diagram actually has them going the other way, but that's not that uncommon for schematics.  I probably should redraw that...

Wow! Okay, thanks GRJ. I completely missed that note, sorry.

Since I haven't opened the packaging yet, I was using the pdf manual from the Hennings Trains site. That one does not have that same note about the square pin. When I open the packaging, I will at the paper manual instead, thanks!