Hi
I was wondering if any had solder lead on to Super O for a MTH TIU system? If yes can you share your tips, experience and advice on how to do it. I saw on another thread that one person was doing it with a Weller Soldering Gun.
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Hi
I was wondering if any had solder lead on to Super O for a MTH TIU system? If yes can you share your tips, experience and advice on how to do it. I saw on another thread that one person was doing it with a Weller Soldering Gun.
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Hi Kris, I never done this before on Super O track. But, because it's an interesting question I'm chiming in not because I have something solid to say about it, but because hopefully someone in the know will.
That said, the center rail is copper so that is not a problem. If it's brass try soldering to the bottom of a joining clip. And if I remember right the outside rails are tubular so they would not be a soldering problem as well.
Play with it and let us know.
You can get ground from bottom of track without soldering. The metal connects both ground rails. Or are you trying to solder the joints.. Which i would not due. Cause you will ruin the track. Easy to soldet copper clips. I used them for power on insulated rail. O gauge track.
If you want to make sure you have good contact between sections. Jumper them.
And i have used HO. Rail connectors for center rail power clips. Those can be soldered too.
Have soldered power leads to center power blade with no problem. same goes for outside rails.
Have seen numerous original super o dealer display layouts over the years and Lionel soldered leads to the outside and center rails often
I've soldered leads to the Bus Bars... just clip them on. You can also solder to the *bottom* of the center rail ... as well as the inside of the outer rail. Darn near invisible. I used Wellers'... but they will all be redone with the Hakko (the last 24 hours changed my life).
GG1Man,
I'm not complaining.
Just trying help you out here.
You need to do a better Soldering Job.
Try using some Soldering flex.
It will let the Solder run smoothie and make better connection without a lot of heat.
Because down the road your going to run in to problem with hot spots and may course to
spark to your electronics in the engines .
Your picture shows a every pour soldering job.
It wasn't a very good soldering connection.
Good luck, John
John, it was my soldering job, not GG1's. Lighten up. You missed the part about temporary, so there will be no problems down the road. Just because it isn't pretty does not mean it isn't functional. Try reading people's posts before you jump in, it may also give you time to check out your spelling. Have fun with your perfect toy railway.
(Deleted--Pointless)
John DeAlto posted:
GG1Man,
I'm not complaining.
Just trying help you out here.
You need to do a better Soldering Job.
Try using some Soldering flex.
It will let the Solder run smoothie and make better connection without a lot of heat.
Because down the road your going to run in to problem with hot spots and may course to
spark to your electronics in the engines .
Your picture shows a every pour soldering job.
It wasn't a very good soldering connection.
Good luck, John
Thanks for the tip John but that was not my soldering work. I was the first to post on the topic and was only guessing about how to solder Super -O.
If you read Daniel's post, who did do the job he was only slapping it together to see if it works. I was commenting on my original guess in the first post.
Oh yea, I have been soldering for over fifty years and I think Daniel is not far behind me.
Dear gentlemen
Thank you for the replies and thanks for the pictures. I also purchased a Hakko and waiting for it to be delivered. Once I have the Hakko I will try the soldering method as pictured and post my pictures.
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