I don't have any brass steamers, only die-cast models, none of which have sprung drive wheels. On anything less then perfectly level track I sometimes see drive wheels riding level where the track dips - like super-elevated curves, and I expect on a sprung-drivered locomotive the wheels would all track more realistically. Does this sound right? Anyone have brass engines with sprung drivers? Any other advantages to this feature?
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The sprung drivers usually aren't seen with the coarser track and wheel standards seen with things like our O gauge stuff. As you look through models that are closer to fine-scale, you see the sprung/equalized drivers coming into use.
When you are all the way to almost exact scale wheels and track, it's almost impossible to run models without having sprung (or at least equalized) locomotive chassis and wheels. ('Just like the real thing!' as they say) That would kill the bottom line on many manufactured models.
It's a subject that tinkerers can get lost in for hours, but not really needed in our steamroller-wheel world. If you check some O scale trucks like Weaver, say, you will notice a rocking-beam effect that allows following of track irregularities. You can even check on what the Proto48 guys are up to, or the Brit P4 (00 finescale) crowd. Then you are into springs, equalizer bars and ball-bearings. The models must run like silk scarves on a banister..........
http://protocraft.com/category...68&Categoryid=25
http://www.clag.org.uk/41-0rev.html
my Williams three rail Niagara had them, it was nice having all the drivers touch the rail instead of just the from and rear axles touching.
I have a couple of 3rd Rail steamers with sprung drivers, I haven't noticed they do better than any other steamers.
Never noticed better performance.
The Lionel Vision Line Big Boy has sprung drivers. If that's the reason it doesn't "gallop" down my FasTrack as bad as other locomotives, that's good to know.
I had a few 3rd rail engines with sprung drivers They all had a problem on the older Ross O72 frogs Didn't matter the speed they would derail at the same 5 switches All of the other engines at the club did not have a problem on the same switches
I build my own - 2-rail, with the traditional 2-rail.172 tread widths. I have found that springing is not necessary, and even when I install springs I do not see the drivers going up and down as the locomotive proceeds over my horrible hand-laid track.
Most of my larger locomotives have slotted frames, much like the real ones, but where the springs go I just insert a piece of rubber. Te exception is five- and six- coupled locomotives. I like to have the number one driver go up and down to better handle my superelevation.
My theory: a sprung locomotive will need more accurate quartering and looser side rods. An unsprung locomotive will have the same tractive effort, because when a driver lifts off the rail, its weight is transferred to the other drivers.
When I was in a modular group the difference between sprung and unspring drivers was pretty clear. At one place on the layout a sort of apex formed at a joint between modules due to time and warping. A non-sprung northern would ramp to the joint with the 2 front drivers off the track and plop down on the other side of the joint. On the sprung drivered engines each wheel would sort of glide up and over one at a time. It was also clear watching articulateds run down the line. The swaying of the front of the engine was more abrupt with the non sprung engines.
On my 2 rail layout I notice the difference with properly sprung drivered locos gliding through a bank of 6 switches in a row while the unsprung models really clunk through the same switches.
The models have to be properly sprung to have the right effect. If the springs are too stiff they'll have little effect.
Interesting information.
I can appreciate those modelers who build steam locomotives as realistically as possible. I doubt I'll ever get to that level but it is fascinating to listen and read about guys who do this kind of work.
The Lionel JLC Y6b has sprung drivers. It just hugs the rail like never seen and talk about slow climbing stump pulling power... a really nice model too own.
Yes. The typical unsprung drivers of die-cast steamers is a design flaw that not only can cause derailments, it can lead to un-dignified motions on some track and switches, at times. I have numerous big steamers, all brands, die-cast and brass. The six-coupled steamers are not too bad, but 4-coupled need the springs for optimal performance. Sprung steamers tend to track better.
My brass Williams Niagara looks better (it's also weathered) on the track than either my Lionel or MTH Niagaras. Tracks better (as does the Williams PT tender, but that's not from springing). I run it more often, as I ERR Cruise Commander upgraded it years ago.
Real steam locomotives had suspensions, of course, so why should our models not?
My Williams brass steamers are all sprung, and move in a way that has less "jerking" here and there. Now, springs can be too soft, also. This can lead to other issues. A 3rd Rail UP 2-8-2 that I have is so softly sprung that it is prone to derailment on some curves. Mushy. Like a 50's and 60's General Motors automobile. Fixable (the loco, anyway). One day.
Springs, yes. Stiff-legged movements, no. And it looks much cooler.
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