Stevenson 0-6-0 Build

Wow, that looks beautiful.

I wish "Bob2" was still on this site, since I bet he would have some useful information/suggestions. Maybe you can get his email address...

Mark in Oregon

Tender looks great. Looks like the hard part is coming up!

ECI

Looks like a really nice kit, especially the frame.

Looking forward to more progress updates.

Got a bit more done on the tender. Close to wrapping it up for now until I get the engine done and then decide how I am going to go with this. Thanks to Centralfan1976, Mario, I have a good photo to work from. Markers may be added later.

Centralfan1976

Pete

Pete. Nice work on your 0-6-0 build.  I’m looking for a narrow can motor to re-power a Max Gray PRR D16 4-4-0.  The motor in your Stevenson 0-6-0 with it’s clipped sides looks like a possibility.  When you have time I’d appreciate your sharing the dimensions of the motor that came with your kit.

I like this build, and look foward to see moor.

@Keystoned Ed posted:

Pete. Nice work on your 0-6-0 build.  I’m looking for a narrow can motor to re-power a Max Gray PRR D16 4-4-0.  The motor in your Stevenson 0-6-0 with it’s clipped sides looks like a possibility.  When you have time I’d appreciate your sharing the dimensions of the motor that came with your kit.

Ed, here is a link to all of the data. The motor is a Mabuchi FS-395PH.

https://www.cika.com/soporte/I.../Motores/MABUCHI.pdf

Apparently NLA from Mabuchi but there a bunch on the bay now.

Pete

@Norton That looks great!  It's always enjoyable to see someone building / modeling and doing high quality work

Pete - thanks for the quick reply with the motor info.  I'm in luck 2 ways.

• The Mabuchi FS-395PH motor will fit in the relatively narrow firebox of my 50+ year old Max Gray PRR D16sb.
• I was able to purchase a new motor on the bay for under $14 shipped.

When the motor arrives, I'll fabricate a motor mount and use a NWSL drive shaft coupling set to mate the previously upgraded NWSL ball bearing gearbox to the Mabuchi motor shaft.  Then it's on to up-detailing the locomotive, painting, and installing DCC/sound. The story be far shorter if Sunset imported a PRR D16sb built to today's detail standards.

Ed, I'd sure like to see you start a thread on your D16sb project.

@Keystoned Ed posted:

Pete - thanks for the quick reply with the motor info.  I'm in luck 2 ways.

• The Mabuchi FS-395PH motor will fit in the relatively narrow firebox of my 50+ year old Max Gray PRR D16sb.
• I was able to purchase a new motor on the bay for under $14 shipped.

When the motor arrives, I'll fabricate a motor mount and use a NWSL drive shaft coupling set to mate the previously upgraded NWSL ball bearing gearbox to the Mabuchi motor shaft.  Then it's on to up-detailing the locomotive, painting, and installing DCC/sound. The story be far shorter if Sunset imported a PRR D16sb built to today's detail standards.

Shorter story but not as much fun as building  your own.

Did he say fun???

Pete

@Keystoned Ed posted:

Pete - thanks for the quick reply with the motor info.  I'm in luck 2 ways.

• The Mabuchi FS-395PH motor will fit in the relatively narrow firebox of my 50+ year old Max Gray PRR D16sb.
• I was able to purchase a new motor on the bay for under $14 shipped.

When the motor arrives, I'll fabricate a motor mount and use a NWSL drive shaft coupling set to mate the previously upgraded NWSL ball bearing gearbox to the Mabuchi motor shaft.  Then it's on to up-detailing the locomotive, painting, and installing DCC/sound. The story be far shorter if Sunset imported a PRR D16sb built to today's detail standards.

I thought anything Max Gray, KTM, US Hobbies was really good stuff!…..Sunset makes a beautiful model, but just for looking at, ……😉

Pat

Like Pat, I am somewhat bewildered why you would need to replace the gearbox other than maybe a space issue. I do, however, think that the Sunset gearboxes with the belt drive are robust, but not the older Sunset with gear towers.

The Max Gray gearboxes were built up of fabricated brass and were not up to the smooth quiet running we have come to expect of better O scale models.  

Stevenson Preservation wouldn't have any old CLW H10 parts would they?

@oscaletrains posted:

Stevenson Preservation wouldn't have any old CLW H10 parts would they?

Not trying to be rude, but why not ask Bob Stevenson!

ECI

Little more work on the 0-6-0. Steamchest almost done. Still have to install the wrapper on one side.

Before and after.

Pete

What an interesting project.  Looking forward to seeing the build progress.

Haven’t posted in a while after hitting a few roadblocks. Here is where it stands now. Still details to add to the chassis and shell.

First roadblock is the wheels are not useable. Out of quarter and the crankpins have been located randomly. Even with a lot of clearance in the siderods it won’t turn without binding. They come pre quartered with square axles so no way to fix that.

I am thinking of replacing the driver centers. PSC has some that should work. Pressing the tire on the center I can figure out but would appreciate suggestions for dealing with the rim insulators. I have not done that before and wondering what is the best material to use and how its done.

Second hitch has been dealt with. The steamchest was way to high. About .200”.

Fortunately I have a mill and was able to take care of that and begin building the shell.

Something to consider if you are thinking of building one of these.

Before.

Pete

@Norton posted:

Haven’t posted in a while after hitting a few roadblocks. Here is where it stands now. Still details to add to the chassis and shell.

First roadblock is the wheels are not useable. Out of quarter and the crankpins have been located randomly. Even with a lot of clearance in the siderods it won’t turn without binding. They come pre quartered with square axles so no way to fix that.

...Something to consider if you are thinking of building one of these.

Before.

Pete

Wow, that's kind of surprising, given how nice the rest of it looks... 😳

Mark in Oregon

its alive!

Got the Stevenson 0-6-0 running today. Before I could barely turn the wheels by hand. The PSC driver centers I ordered were too small so I had to fix the existing drivers.

Beautiful work!  I'd love to have your skills.

That's outstanding! It looks like it moves so smoothly as well.

Would a 24v motor be common for this sort of model?

@BillYo414 posted:

That's outstanding! It looks like it moves so smoothly as well.

Would a 24v motor be common for this sort of model?

A lot of guys used 24v motors to switchers and logging engines to better performance at slow speeds.

Ah ok. I follow now. Thanks!

@BillYo414 posted:

That's outstanding! It looks like it moves so smoothly as well.

Would a 24v motor be common for this sort of model?

I am not sure what it is. Mabuchi no longer list this motor but going by its DC resistance its three times what the 385 I replaced it with is.

Also if the idea was better low speed performance then that didn’t work. It would stall at 5v and took about 8v to get to moving.

The 385 runs at 3v and will start from a dead stop at 3v, maybe lower with time.

Pete

Looks great! The video of the frame with the valve gear on both sides in motion is fantastic, almost a shame to cover that with a boiler.

Is this going to be painted at the end, or left as brass?

~Chris

@C.Vigs posted:

Looks great! The video of the frame with the valve gear on both sides in motion is fantastic, almost a shame to cover that with a boiler.

Is this going to be painted at the end, or left as brass?

~Chris

Thanks guys. The plan is to paint it but still a lot of work to be done. I am little more motivated now that I know it might actually run.

Pete

@Norton posted:

Little more work on the 0-6-0. Steamchest almost done. Still have to install the wrapper on one side.

I'm interpreting this photo to mean you did the bending work on the wrapper yourself. It looks really precise and well done. How did you do it?

@BillYo414 posted:

I'm interpreting this photo to mean you did the bending work on the wrapper yourself. It looks really precise and well done. How did you do it?

The way I did it was to first anneal the brass strip so it would bend easier. Then soldered one end to the underside and finally just pulled it around the cylinders soldering it a bit at a time. Clamping was a bit of a hassle as there are no parallel surfaces.

Pete

Looking great Pete.

@Norton posted:

The way I did it was to first anneal the brass strip so it would bend easier. Then soldered one end to the underside and finally just pulled it around the cylinders soldering it a bit at a time. Clamping was a bit of a hassle as there are no parallel surfaces.

Pete

That where a Laser welder would be handy

@Norton posted:

First roadblock is the wheels are not useable. Out of quarter and the crankpins have been located randomly. Even with a lot of clearance in the siderods it won’t turn without binding. They come pre quartered with square axles so no way to fix that.

I am thinking of replacing the driver centers. PSC has some that should work. Pressing the tire on the center I can figure out but would appreciate suggestions for dealing with the rim insulators. I have not done that before and wondering what is the best material to use and how its done.

Pete

I was about to order one of Bob's kits, but the quartering issue is a huge show-stopper.  Have you contacted Bob Stevenson to ask him to address this?  I have used Slaters 7mm:foot wheels in the past; they have a large range of sizes and it's not difficult to find a wheel of the right diameter, with more or less correct crank throw and number of spokes.  I am tempted to order a kit and tell Bob to leave the wheels out.

The poorly quartered wheels are retrievable without major dramas, but relocating crankpins is a proper pain in the butt.  A lot of extra work that you shouldn't have to do.

Paul Woods

Whangarei, NZ.  NYCSHS #7172

@Norton posted:

its alive!

Got the Stevenson 0-6-0 running today.

Pete

Pete,

Beautiful. But I have a question.

Watching the video, it looks to me like the valve motion on the right side is lagging the motion on the left side by 90 degrees. Isn't the right side supposed to lead? It's not really important for the model but I'm just curious.

MELGAR

@Woodsworks posted:

I was about to order one of Bob's kits, but the quartering issue is a huge show-stopper.  Have you contacted Bob Stevenson to ask him to address this?  I have used Slaters 7mm:foot wheels in the past; they have a large range of sizes and it's not difficult to find a wheel of the right diameter, with more or less correct crank throw and number of spokes.  I am tempted to order a kit and tell Bob to leave the wheels out.

The poorly quartered wheels are retrievable without major dramas, but relocating crankpins is a proper pain in the butt.  A lot of extra work that you shouldn't have to do.

Paul Woods

Whangarei, NZ.  NYCSHS #7172

Paul, wish I had known about Slaters. I think this will work now. I sent inquiries to Stevenson twice but only crickets. No response.

I am fortunate to have the machinery to fix this but I suspect for many this would have been difficult.

Melgar, you may be right. I wasn’t aware of the convention. The quartering tool allows putting either side first. I guessed wrong.

FWIW here are the drivers minus crankpins as received.

Pete

Omigosh, those wheels are spectacularly bad!  I was about to contact Bob about buying a 2-8-0, with a view to using it as the basis for a NYC G-class.  I'm not put off buying it by this but I'm definitely going to ask him to not bother with wheels.  I love Slaters wheels, beautifully made, screw assembly, and surprisingly inexpensive.  Right now I am working on fitting Slaters #7851K wheels in an AHM 0-8-0 kit, my first attempt at actually building a loco with them - before this, I'd only seen & handled locos built by other people that were fitted with Slaters wheels.  The only complaints I've ever heard was that an axle screw has occasionally come loose and jammed the side rods, but that's easy to fix.

So I went to the Slaters website and while the wheels look very well done, none in the 7mm group appeared to have counterweights. Is that something you have to make and apply yourself?

BTW here is a pic of the wheels before removing the crankpins. Note that the tires overhang the centers and not concentrically either.

To add to the aggravation another forum member built a another 0-6-0 10 years ago and found the same problem with the wheels. He was able to contact Stevenson and get replacements. Might want to try that before ordering. That still might not solve the problem with the square holes not matching with the inability to quarter.

Pete

Slaters' website https://slatersplastikard.com/index.php