Straight Edge to Cut Styrene

Well I would recommend the thinnest material possible since you do not want to raise the edge to high above the material being cut. So perhaps a paper thin sandpaper applied with contact cement and then trimmed once dry would be most practical. I generally do not use such methods, but the occasional slip does point to it's value as a cutting aid.

Good luck

Bob

I use a thin stainless steel ruler from Walmart with masking tape on the back, If you need extra holding power, glue a strip of 400 WOD sandpaper to a paint stirring stick (also from Walmart, free). Place the stick with sandpaper on top of the ruler to hold it in place as you make the cut. This method is especially handy when you have to make a long cut.

Malcolm

The thinnest possible material...but I don't think I'd use sandpaper.  Reason: For the times when you might be cutting clear stock for windows, or concerned about surface abrasions for painting quality, any scratches left by sandpaper may be a distraction.

Just a thought.

Also, I tried the masking/painters tape.  It's OK....for awhile.  Then it seemed (for me, anyway) to develop some exposed adhesive along the edges that made it troublesome to easily shift the guide (steel rule, in this case) into alignment with my marks. I ended up removing it and thoroughly cleaning the surface with Goo Gone.  Right now I use the Merlot-technique....a glass thereof along with soothing classical music (i.e., NO banjo bands!!)...tends to steady the hands for model work.

I suppose there's a downside to any choice.  Whatever works to one's satisfaction....that's the winner!

FWIW, always.

KD

9.9 outta 10 of my projects don't require a worry about the cut piece finish being mared, but if it did and you were cutting clear acetate, one could polish any swirl or ruler marks off of the cut piece, or apply a coat of gloss clear to hide those marks- I've used pledge with future floor finish to coat clear items{1/25th headlight lenses/windshields/aircraft canopies/homemade light bars...} with great results.

I have the 11" T bar from micromark.  I found it to be just ok.  What I use to get straight cuts on all my sheet stock (styrene, pvc foam board, matte board, etc.) is a matte cutter.

One like this:

http://www.dickblick.com/produ...-1-team-system-plus/

Logan makes a bunch of tools that are really good for this sort of thing. http://www.logangraphic.com/

Good luck.

WJP,

Like Brother Love, I use a stainless steel ruler or an aluminum T-Square to make my cuts. Another thing to use would be  a drafting table with a sliding straight edge.

When you make cuts or scores on styrene, use a sharp razor blade and do not press hard. Press as light as possible but still permits scoring. If you push hard and push the blade against the straight edge, you will easily go off course. Like anything else, the more you do it the better you get at it.

Alan Graziano

check out FOURMOST PRODUCTS rulers and straight edges.  the have rubber backed and stainless grippers...I use the number 149 and 152 all the time.  check your local hobby shop in the rc plane section

forgot a url

http://www.reocities.com/heart...lane/3010/nonrlr.htm

I have a couple of cork backed rulers that were purchased that way. I think I got them at an art supply store eons ago. The only disadvantage with them is, if you don't hold your knife straight up, it is possible to have it wander under the edge. It isn't a big deal once you get used to it.

I get 100% perfect cuts every time with this.......

Crafter's paper cutter. Mine is by Fiskars but many companies make them. This one will cut sheet stock up to 12" wide....but they make larger units like this. Perfect cuts every time that my arthritic hands can't do alone.....My 4 year old grandson can even use it....he loves to 'help' me!!! $10-15 for one like this.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions.