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I enjoy reading the various how-to topics on repainting locomotives and rolling stock. I hope to repaint some of my equipment in the future and all the helpful information being posted is going to come in handy. Most of the topics are about stripping, priming, types of paint, decals, etc. However, I don't recall reading much about painting straight lines. Many railroad liveries have stripes or different color fields separated by a straight line.  You can do a great job of stripping and painting something, but if you make mistakes on the straight lines the errors are really noticeable.

 

So, I was hoping for some suggestions, tips, hints, etc. that people use to paint straight lines. Trying to think through the problem, I've come up with the following questions, but I don't have much experience in the subject matter, so I'm sure I left out some things.

 

1. How do scribe or mark the straight line on the loco?

 

2. What type of tape do you use for making the straight line?

 

3. How do you apply the tape so it lays down in a straight line?

 

4. Do you seal or burnish the tape or take other steps to prevent paint from seeping under the tape?

 

5. Do you paint a scheme in a certain order, i.e. light colors before dark colors, or main color before stripes, etc.?

 

6. How long do leave the tape on after painting?

 

7. How long do you wait for the paint to dry before taping again and starting the next color?

 

8. Do you take any additional steps when painting additional colors, since you'll now be taping over final paint colors?

 

9. If your techniques vary depending on the type of paint, i.e. solvent based or water based, please point out the differences.

 

Thanks for your help.

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Originally Posted by trestrainfan:

I enjoy reading the various how-to topics on repainting locomotives and rolling stock. I hope to repaint some of my equipment in the future and all the helpful information being posted is going to come in handy. Most of the topics are about stripping, priming, types of paint, decals, etc. However, I don't recall reading much about painting straight lines. Many railroad liveries have stripes or different color fields separated by a straight line.  You can do a great job of stripping and painting something, but if you make mistakes on the straight lines the errors are really noticeable.

 

So, I was hoping for some suggestions, tips, hints, etc. that people use to paint straight lines. Trying to think through the problem, I've come up with the following questions, but I don't have much experience in the subject matter, so I'm sure I left out some things.

 

1. How do scribe or mark the straight line on the loco?

   I don't.  I study it and note where, and perhaps make tiny reference marks, just pinpricks, at key points - if I can't avoid it.

2. What type of tape do you use for making the straight line?

   I use the premium version of the blue masking tape you buy for painting - its marked something like "gives smooth even edges" or something.  It is particularly necessary to make sure the edge if really flat and pushed down well so it adheres.

3. How do you apply the tape so it lays down in a straight line?

 I position one end and press it into place and pull the tap tightly along the line I want and lightly press it in place, then check, then once good, press it down hard.

4. Do you seal or burnish the tape or take other steps to prevent paint from seeping under the tape?

 No, I just make sure it is really, really tightly pressed down.

5. Do you paint a scheme in a certain order, i.e. light colors before dark colors, or main color before stripes, etc.?

No, I do not put light down first or dark down last.  I generally plan the colors in the order I think will be easiest to assure I mask them so the thinest lines come out nicely.  Right now I'm thinking about this ref. how to do a Warbonnet scheme, not sure actually).

 

6. How long do leave the tape on after painting?

 I remove the tape when the paint is about fifteen minutes dried, not much longer.  This is a delicate operation as it will mar the finish if it even brushes up against the wet paint, but I plan for easy removel when I apply the masking take.  

7. How long do you wait for the paint to dry before taping again and starting the next color?

 Usually, at least 24 hours if not several days.

8. Do you take any additional steps when painting additional colors, since you'll now be taping over final paint colors?

No.  I do, however, make sure that all the colors I am using are the same type and brand of paint.

 

9. If your techniques vary depending on the type of paint, i.e. solvent based or water based, please point out the differences.

 No.

Thanks for your help.

I've painted several locos this way, the latest the N&W J now in UP colors discussed in another thread active at this time.  I also repainted a Legacy Southern Crescent flat black and have done five or six locos from [whatever they were] to Union pacific Armor yellow and gray.  In none of these did I remove the body shell: I just mask the entire loco underside and wheels well as well as all the tiny details.  masking can take much much longer than the painting.

Went to the automotive paint mix, shop: told them I wanted the roll

of 3M,  pinstriping tape,  has 8 - 1/16, pull outs, that we used back in '70s

( Well- DUH ), for pin striping the cars,   makes perfect parking lot stripes,

they had to look up the number in the book,  because, well we all know

painting is done by free hand now,  but it is there,  I still have 3/4 roll left

Originally Posted by trestrainfan:

 

1. How do scribe or mark the straight line on the loco?

 

To answer all these in depth would take a book!!! Lee has covered pretty well overall but I can answer this one a bit different.

I use a digital caliper to mark lines. On the CSX loco I needed a perfect straight line at the same point on both sides of the Dash-9 loco. I found the place I wanted the paint break and set/locked my calipers. I then used the sharp scribe points on the calipers to mark the masking line on both sides. Use a high quality masking tape....I use Tamiya but other work well too. I burnish it very well with my finger nail or a wood coffee stir stick if needed. You should end up with nice straight clean paint lines.    

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One should burnish the taped edge to help seal that edge, and I've been using frog tape lately with very nice results, but there are other types that folks swear by.

 

One of the oddball things I've done for marking straight lines on model truck and trailer bodies is something, height wise, that I can find that will hold a pencil and to stroll around the body/piece to make my marks...this only works well on a given body that sits dead flat- a steam engine body won't behave so easily for this method.

Another method I hope to try some day is the "bath method" a guy told me about...find a container and set the piece to be marked in there...fill with water to the desired height and add food coloring around the top edge of the piece- but not on it...just near...and the food coloring will leave a mark across the whole thing at water's edge...never tried it though, but it sounds do-able.

Another couple of ways - if you are adept, a ruling pen and water base paint works well. Lately I have been using these neat fine line pens that you get in stationery stores.  If you plan to use yellow or orange, you need to buy a white pen for a primer stripe.

 

I have done it with tape as above - the fine line tape is still available at better artist supply stores.

 

These stripes were done with a silver fine line pen, then outlined in very, very fine black with a ruling pen.

 

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