Does anyone know how to remove the rivet or pin on the power units coupler to remove it from the truck?
I need to swap the coupler out.
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Does anyone know how to remove the rivet or pin on the power units coupler to remove it from the truck?
I need to swap the coupler out.
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Take the shell off and remove the front truck, while supporting the truck up side down, I use something sharp like a ice pick and hammer out the drive pin and in a few seconds, it is removed, don't loose the centering spring and unsolder the coil wire...
Marty
That is the easy part! To replace the rivet, the trick is without the special rivet roller in the Lionel tool set, it is very hard to roll the rivet in the small confines of the of the hole for the coupler rivet. You can't get it too tight or the coupler won't swing, too loose and the coupler will sag.
Ugh....not sure what to do...maybe just replace the whole truck.
Can that Lionel tool be purchased?
Ask a Lionel shop with the tool if they would be willing to do just the press work if you bring in just the truck and the part. If it's all disassembled, it should be a quick job and the cost nominal.
Thanks guys, I will see if there are any shops around here.
Also, what about those funky latters on the back of the Alco's?
They have a really strange looking "something" or other holding them in.
What the heck are they?
It is a little stud molded in the frame. You can pry off the ladder,or in most cases its remains, and restake a new ladder on. If not still useable, you can drill a small hole and use a #2 x 3/8 or 1/4 self tap screw.
As I recall, a standard Lionel rolling clincher will not fit into the recess to roll the end of the special coupler mounting rivet.
Jeff Kane makes a clincher designed to get into tight spots.
It is his number ST-360-9S, rollover for recessed areas, $20.
While the folks selling arbor press tools probably would never recommend this, I do use my tools without the press with some fequency. I use a leather mallet to strike the back of the tool. Never use a traditional metal hammer to strike a press tool. If you distort the back of the tool even the tiniest bit, it might jamb in its tool holder the next time. I guess a brass, plastic, or rubber hammer would be OK too.
Some parts dealers sell roll pin punches for use as rolling clinchers.
Roll pin punches look like pin punches, but they have a semicircular round dome on the the tip. I have a Mayhew set. They are fairly expensive. I think Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive set.
Disclaimer: I have only used mine for their intended purpose.
CW, I bought four of those roll pin punches at a flea market, was wondering what they were used for. I use them to tighten rivets a bit when something has worked loose over fifty years of running. I also have a very small anvil, about 2 1/2 inches long for fine work, and a made in Japan version for heavier work. It is amazing what you can accumulate if you really try!
I cannot seem to find this on Harbor freights website.
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