- So I found that I have a couple of K-line super snap turnouts that I want to wire up external power. I also found in my stash of parts a few Z stuff push buttons #1002.
- I recall a forum member stating that he had replaced his K line switch throw machines with the Z stuff 1002 .
Would someone clearly show (photo or simple schematic) me how I should proceed. Thank you much.
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The SuperSnap units are set up from the factory for external power... no modification needed.
Figured it out. Turnout Works best in line with track power and the only small issue with the 1002 Z stuff is the controller lights are opposite what the turnout position lights show. I switched over the two outer as in reversed the wire positions and Still dysynchronous! Not sure why..Hmm, maybe something mis wired in the switch? Not a buggy but it would be nice if they were in sync.
There are eight 0-72 Super Snap switches on my layout, and I wanted to control them with two mini push buttons and two LED’s on my custom control panel. Assuming that K-Line used Lionel’s circuit, I got the same results as you. I eventually figured out K-Lines modified circuit and all has been well. Keep trying! BTW: They do work OK with a dedicated transformer accessory output.
Going to piggy back on this.
I bought so many left and right of the original K-Line switches, and they were ... problematic. One of the problems was a diecast piece of curved rail near the frog touches the frog. The fix was unscrew it, file it down ever so slightly, then put it back.
Then I bought a bunch of RMT remakes and at least one has the same problem, only now instead of a screw, its a palnut. So the question is, either, how to I get the palnuts off, or, can I get a piece of emery cloth down in there somehow?
I have some K-Line remotes if you want them, I control my switches by TMCC, or just walk over there and throw them. Note that the left and the right switches have different controllers. I run on the basement concrete floor along the walls, and put the switches places where my wife would not easily step on them.
Edit:
To answer the original question, K-Line Supersnap switches operate just like most other switches with a non-derailing feature; short to ground (outer rail). So one wire would run from outer rail to both sides of each push button switch, then a single wire to each push button to the two different terminals that hook up to the rails that need the plastic pins in them. Sorry I cant remember which one of the five it is, you can either look at it or use an ohm meter, or infer from the instruction manual. At work atm. Maybe use black wire for the common, green for straight path, and red for the curved path.
@ADCX Rob posted:The SuperSnap units are set up from the factory for external power... no modification needed.
I did not know the K Line switches were set up that way. I do not use them myself, but just shows another reason why K Line is missed in this hobby. Affordability coupled with quality something you will never see again.
@ADCX Rob posted:The SuperSnap units are set up from the factory for external power... no modification needed.
@ThatGuy posted:I did not know the K Line switches were set up that way...
Not just the SuperSnap models, but all K-Line remote control switches are set up for AUX power input, and have direction lighting indicators, even the most basic O-27 remote switches.