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Since I’ve been on my car and caboose scratchbuilding run, I’ve been thinking about trucks more, namely, the limited selection in O Scale available, and more importantly, that I can afford.   With my G-38/39 ore car project, the proper truck is the PRR “Crown” truck, for at least the earlier G-38/39s, the remainder used a more common truck.   So far I’ve gotten assistance from members at my train club in the form of side frame castings to substitute on standard Athearn type trucks and some very nice, I think Yoder trucks.  Even if I could find enough of them, I couldn’t afford 25-30 pairs of the latter, so I’ve been working on 3d drawings of Crown Trucks, to make on my resin printer.  If I get the drawings, and print worked out well,  I should have better detail than a metal casting and for about a dollar of resin per truck.   My plan is to print truck as one single part that would fit Intermountain 33” wheelsets, which leads me to my thinking of the need for sprung trucks.  

I would say 90% of my freight cars, that I regularly ran pre-Covid at my train club, have either Weaver/Athearn trucks, or Atlas trucks.  The Atlas trucks, despite having real springs, seem to be fairly rigid.  The Weaver/Athearn have no springs, but seam to have a little flex.   Once I got metal wheels in everything I really don’t get derailments.  The derailments I was having, when I first started out with O Scale a few years ago, mostly seemed related to the Atlas couplers.  Once I switched to Kadees that problem went away.   For decades in HO scale, those trucks were mostly rigid also.    My question, after all this rambling, is how important does everyone feel sprung trucks are?    Thanks

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First Athearn trucks are sprung - all version back through the metal days.    Weaver trucks are not sprung.    Both are equalized.   The springs on the Athearn allow equalization and the weaver sideframes rotate slightly on the bolsters thus equalizing.    I think performance is about equal between the two.     Atlas trucks as you have springs, but in actuality are rigid.

Equalization means the trucks can adjust a little to rough or uneven track.    I like this capability.    When one wheel drops into a dip, the equalization allows that sideframe to tip while the opposite stays level, hence all wheels stay on the track.    Atlas cars accomplish almost as much with 3 point mounting.    If you look at the underside of an atlas car with the trucks removed, you will notice that there are tabs sticking up at one end on either side of the truck mounting pin about halfway along where the bolster is.    The truck on that end rides  on these tabs while screwed to the pin and cannot tip to either side.    At the other end of the car, the truck is mounted to the pin only and has a little bit of play to tip side to side.    When this car hits a dip with the end that cannot tip, the entire car can tip slightly while the truck at the other ends stays on the track.   Vice-versa when the truck that can tip, enters a tip, the weight of the car on truck riding on tabs keeps the car level while the other truck dips thus keeping all wheels on the rails.   The other advantage is that freight cars are generally short and these trucks are short, so dips and changes in the track do not affect them as much as 80 ft passenger cars.

I have a few of the brass cabooses made by "The Car Works".   These came with very pretty and nicely detailed trucks.    They looked great.   Unfortunately, they did not always track well.   Some of them did, most did not.   These trucks were even equalized!   I puzzled over this in my disappointment at having rather expensive cars that derailed a lot.   I finally started inspecting them very carefully and identified what I think was the major problem.   And as far as I am concerned with my skill it is uncorrectible.    The problem is that the trucks are not square.    The axle holes on one sideframe are not the same distance apart and the same distance from the center bolster as the opposite sideframe.    They were off by just some thousandths of an inch that was not obvious to the eye without measuring.    This meant that the axles were not parallel; the wheels one side are closer together than the other.    The truck was a trapezoid.    This caused it to always be trying to turn and at a switch frog for example, it would find a small gap, and turn into it, then climb and derail.    My solution was to replace all these trucks with PRR cabin trucks form American Scale Models.

I think printing your own sideframes may lead to similar  problems to the Car Works trucks unless the resolution is such that the journal holes are very accurately the same on each side piece.    If the holes are printed as part of the model, I assume this might be possible, but I don't enough about the process to know.    If you have to drill/bore the holes after printing, I think you need to be very precise.    Perhaps you need a boring mill and a jig to do this, it may not be possible to get the precision on a drill press with hand held.

As for making the trucks rigid, that might work if do something similar to the atlas cars.     I personally prefer equalized trucks. 

By the way, Athearn made Andrews trucks and Archbar trucks in addition to the bettendorf style.    The andrews side frame is somewhat similar to the PRR crown truck. 

Lionel did a very nice crown truck on their first runs of the GLA hoppers.    This truck is easy to convert to 2 rail.    Unfortunately, they discontinued that truck put a generic bettendorf truck with plastic bolsters on the last runs of the GLA.    I was disappointed because their literature did not mention changing the car when announcing the runs I ordered them based them being the same accurate model as the first run.

I routinely drill cast bronze truck side frames.  I use a center punch and a magnifying glass, and start with a smaller drill.  Only problem I ever had was a Lobaugh Centipede - wound up springing that one.

Knowing almost nothing about the printing industry, I would say your big problem there would be wear.

i have moved holes in brass/bronze - I tap the old hole 4-40, screw in a clean brass screw with flux on it, solder with a small torch, then re-drill.  Almost all the Lobaugh Diamond Bettendorf trucks need that treatment.

I am in agreement with PRRJim about equalization being important, especially if you plan on having

super elevated curves.

For simplicity in your trucks I would look at the Weaver plastic truck design.  With a little ingenuity

you could get it down to one side frame and a simple bolster instead of the two different side frames

design of the Weaver.

Interesting theory.  I don't use needle point axles, but if track were uneven enough to require equalization, I doubt my steamers would make it.  I have lousy track, but most of my steam has cork or rubber where the springs go.  I do drill for springs, just in case the next owner wants to watch the drivers go up and down.

I do have superelevated curves, and some big Northerns require springing on the front driver.  Almost all of my rolling stock has bronze equalized trucks with shouldered axles.

@trainbob posted:

Well even though Tom Tee hasn’t posted I do agree with him about the track work. Also the wheel gauge  may be more important than whether the truck is sprung or not

Wheel gauge and accurate track gauge and turnout points are a must.  Trucks are pretty stiffly sprung and they operate more like solid trucks unless the freight car is very very heavy. Also the track must be level where ever joined. I recommend an NMRA gauge to check everything.

Best of luck with your railroad.

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