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Hey guys I've been mulling over some stuff and I wanted to pitch a question.  One of my favorite activities in model railroading is weathering of locomotives and rolling stock.  I have weathered almost all of my personal collection and done many other cars for friends.  Multiple people have told me that I should weather cars as a side business, and that I should charge people for doing it.  My question is: Should I?  If so, any ideas how I would do it?  

I attached some pics of cars I've weathered with this post.  What do you think?

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I found weathering to a be a specific liking according to peoples taste. Now if someone sends you an engine lets say for you to weather in which you charge a service for and they don't end up liking the job what happens now? For sure you are not going to be paid for the service and second do you now have to replace the unit? I never encountered that but always thought about it. So what I do is just buy engines, dummies , rolling stock etc specifically for weathering and list them on ebay with a ton of pictures and if someone likes them they'll buy it. I can tell you that 95% of the times the items do get sold but you do you need to take some steps to protect the weathering from handling and give a instruction of handling sheet included in the box.

Hotpressmugs posted:

I found weathering to a be a specific liking according to peoples taste. Now if someone sends you an engine lets say for you to weather in which you charge a service for and they don't end up liking the job what happens now? For sure you are not going to be paid for the service and second do you now have to replace the unit? I never encountered that but always thought about it. So what I do is just buy engines, dummies , rolling stock etc specifically for weathering and list them on ebay with a ton of pictures and if someone likes them they'll buy it. I can tell you that 95% of the times the items do get sold but you do you need to take some steps to protect the weathering from handling and give a instruction of handling sheet included in the box.

You have a very good point and I agree on what you're saying.  Usually when I weather something for a friend I ask them dozens of questions of what they're looking for in their engine.  I make it a point to NEVER just jump in on something that's not mine without asking the owner first.  What I usually do when I do it for people is have them come in or I send pics every now and then to ask what they think, that way they are involved in every step of the process.  

Hotpressmugs posted:

I found weathering to a be a specific liking according to peoples taste. Now if someone sends you an engine lets say for you to weather in which you charge a service for and they don't end up liking the job what happens now? For sure you are not going to be paid for the service and second do you now have to replace the unit? I never encountered that but always thought about it. So what I do is just buy engines, dummies , rolling stock etc specifically for weathering and list them on ebay with a ton of pictures and if someone likes them they'll buy it. I can tell you that 95% of the times the items do get sold but you do you need to take some steps to protect the weathering from handling and give a instruction of handling sheet included in the box.

Sage advice indeed.

To me weathering beside a taste for some, also one doing it should consider the era they will have their weathered cars, engines running in. Living within a mile to 3 miles of many major railroads during the 50 and 60s cars and engines were still well taken care of and only one would see road grime and very little rusting except for the wheel sets on cars. During the early 80s is when we started to see less upkeep, graffiti start appearing on railcars and engines showing signs up less cleaning if at all. Company cars, mostly Tank cars, and covered hopper cars into the 21st century were still well maintained and cleaned each time they pulled back in. Before loading they were washed inside and outside and inspected. If they needed repainting, touch up, etc. it was noted and were put on list to be upgraded for repairs. During the 70s, to 21st century while also being involved with Terminals upgrade, the only tank cars we had come in which showed neglect and surface rust running down sides, ends, etc. were those that were carried Ammonia contents. Oil, home fuel, etc. showed mostly the effects of the elements, road grime and sun damage. It has only been the last decade that I have seen abused, and neglected cars on the road. Some of the cars, aged and weathered to the extremes, many companies I have worked for would never put their products into them. I've seen our company, terminals turn back hopper cars, tank cars, and boxcars that were damaged or showed neglect that weren't owned by us but rather rented.

Please note: this is only what I seen and saw in my areas and the engines and cars that came through on the rails I saw daily. Maybe in other areas, there were more weathered, and less upkeep coming and going.

You do very nice work.  Some are very realistically filthy; the Reading diesel is a classic.  If I had one of them and Mrs. RJR saw it, she'd probably wash it.

The answer to your basic question is not an easy one.  You want to help a friend, but at $0, you could be overwhelmed with "friends." If you decide to charge, the advice to get paid in advance is good advice.

I'm curious.  What is that loco 227 with the weird tender?

I never looked and should have before posting this but does OGR even have a weathering forum? I created on facebook for folks to post photos and discuss their techniques and materials used and such, hell I can talk about this for hours I guess because I enjoy doing it lol. Some advice I can offer from what I found is and others may agree or not but everyone will eventually find what works best for them is to start off with dull coating the piece. Then I use a combination of airbrushing with acrylic paints, dry powders, and real dirt and rust. The reason I dull coat first is that if I feel something looked a bit too much or a whoops is that I generally can wipe it off with some warm water. Then when finishing I hit it will dull coat again, but this time from a distance as to settle on and not run off your powders and such, mist it in the air and let it settle onto the train. This is one of my earlier pieces and still my favorite, you know what they say about your first lol.  Always will have a special place...

Oh and always protect windows and lights from being hit with the dull coat, tape them off.

cr1cr2cr3cr4cr5cr6

 

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Last edited by Hotpressmugs
Hotpressmugs posted:

I never looked and should have before posting this but does OGR even have a weathering forum? I created on facebook for folks to post photos and discuss their techniques and materials used and such, hell I can talk about this for hours I guess because I enjoy doing it lol. Some advice I can offer from what I found is and others may agree or not but everyone will eventually find what works best for them is to start off with dull coating the piece. Then I use a combination of airbrushing with acrylic paints, dry powders, and real dirt and rust. The reason I dull coat first is that if I feel something looked a bit too much or a whoops is that I generally can wipe it off with some warm water. Then when finishing I hit it will dull coat again, but this time from a distance as to settle on and not run off your powders and such, mist it in the air and let it settle onto the train. This is one of my earlier pieces and still my favorite, you know what they say about your first lol.  Always will have a special place...

Oh and always protect windows and lights from being hit with the dull coat, tape them off.

cr1cr2cr3cr4cr5cr6

 

I always used acrylic paint with a regular small brush just because that was what I had on hand and also I am paranoid about paint getting into the motors of the trains and screwing things up.  Especially on steam locomotives, since the shells can be a little difficult to remove and the motors can be more exposed.   TBH my one true fear in model railroading is removing shells of locomotives and poking around inside, due to the possibility of accidentally damaging something.  

PR&NJRR posted:

I always used acrylic paint with a regular small brush just because that was what I had on hand and also I am paranoid about paint getting into the motors of the trains and screwing things up.  Especially on steam locomotives, since the shells can be a little difficult to remove and the motors can be more exposed.   TBH my one true fear in model railroading is removing shells of locomotives and poking around inside, due to the possibility of accidentally damaging something.  

Always do what you feel most comfortable with, a whole lot can be achieved without any removal just take your time in some of the prep work and taping more off. On diesels if you see in the Conrail  above I remove the shell and put a printed sticker in the cab between the engineers that has gauges and stuff on it just the dress the inside a bit. For the most part the removal aren't that bad and pretty straight forward, but like I said work in your comfort zone and eventually the zone will become bigger and bigger. It's model railroading and fun, your creativity is limitless and only limited to what you allow it to be. If you ever wish to discuss anything on this feel free to reach out to me, like I said I love this lol. My email is in my profile and we can talk via landline or now a days cell . 

 

Mike

For me, weathering, specifically engines and rolling stock, is what separates the toy train modeler from the hi-rail or scale modeler. Some guys fuss about the center rail and they say THAT makes it a toy train. Maybe so. But taking a layout as a whole, the biggest differentiator of the toy train look from the scale or hi-rail look is weathering. So I think charging the scale modeler for weathering service is valid. How much you can charge is another question. You'd have to experiment with weathered versus new look auctions on eBay.....or just advertise and see what the response is like. Lionel sold a factory-weathered N&W 611 J engine. And I suppose they also sold the non-weathered version. Was there a price difference between the two? I don't know my Lionel well enough to know.

Good luck!

Don Merz

I think there are enough people out there who want weathered items that would be willing to pay for them and finding people isn't the easiest.  I have someone at York who I have promised to bring 5 locomotives to each show and we worked out a price that is fair to him and myself.  He always sends me pictures and we can go darker or dirtier if I feel that engine should be.  So far he's done 50+ steam and diesels. 

I would have examples to show a potential client of light, medium, and heavy weathering and they can pick what they prefer and they need to go into it knowing its going to vary somewhat but if they have a particular amount they want then they can specify.  I have never been disappointed once in my locomotives I have received.  If you hit me up in my profile I may even be willing to give you a try sometime to try out some rolling stock.  If the price is reasonable I am all for weathering but some people charge themselves right out of the market or at least my market.  I think if you get a few customers you'll find if they like your work they will continue to weather their stuff.  To me weathering is what makes the locomotives and cars look realistic.  Unless the stuff has just come out of the shop its going to have some dirt on it.  

Don Merz 070317 posted:

For me, weathering, specifically engines and rolling stock, is what separates the toy train modeler from the hi-rail or scale modeler. Some guys fuss about the center rail and they say THAT makes it a toy train. Maybe so. But taking a layout as a whole, the biggest differentiator of the toy train look from the scale or hi-rail look is weathering. So I think charging the scale modeler for weathering service is valid. How much you can charge is another question. You'd have to experiment with weathered versus new look auctions on eBay.....or just advertise and see what the response is like. Lionel sold a factory-weathered N&W 611 J engine. And I suppose they also sold the non-weathered version. Was there a price difference between the two? I don't know my Lionel well enough to know.

Good luck!

Don Merz

To be honest i as thinking of doing things like some of my art friends do, something like $20-$25 for engines, $10-15 for cars, depending on size etc.  Because I know many people who do want weathered cars and locos but are too afraid to do it themselves.  And you're right about weathering standing out.  There's a vid I have (posted below) of a train at a show made up of cars/locos that i weathered and "showroom fresh" cars, and it seems that the weathered cars really pop out and draw the eye in my opinion.  

 

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I custom paint musical instruments for people.   I do charge.   It is a very, very side business that began with me customizing my own. As others have said in this thread, I go over fully what the person wants right down to color and finish type (flat, gloss, metallic, anodized looking, etc..)

I do send pictures or have them over as I proceed with each step.   It's not a volume business, and not a big moneymaker, but it does put some extra cash in my pockets.   They key is to be very clear and explain all the steps.

I say go for it.  Your example here are phenomenal.   If I needed weathered trains I know I would reach out to you.

While not a train, here's an example of what I do. 

It's a new pro portable keyboar that someone wanted to pop with an anodized aluminum look.  The top shell was simple black hard plastic.   I use Duplicolor Automotive paints

zLtt22

HQALJF

It's in a box in the attic, but I do have an old diesel loco that I got crazy with and refinished with Duplicolor.   I'll go find it and post a pic.  It's a dark purple "Plum Crazy".  Why?  Because I can

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RJR posted:

You do very nice work.  Some are very realistically filthy; the Reading diesel is a classic.  If I had one of them and Mrs. RJR saw it, she'd probably wash it.

The answer to your basic question is not an easy one.  You want to help a friend, but at $0, you could be overwhelmed with "friends." If you decide to charge, the advice to get paid in advance is good advice.

I'm curious.  What is that loco 227 with the weird tender?

Jersey Central had a few (or more) tank engines that would be used in commuter service without the need of a turntable.

RaritanRiverRailroadFan4 posted:
RJR posted:

You do very nice work.  Some are very realistically filthy; the Reading diesel is a classic.  If I had one of them and Mrs. RJR saw it, she'd probably wash it.

The answer to your basic question is not an easy one.  You want to help a friend, but at $0, you could be overwhelmed with "friends." If you decide to charge, the advice to get paid in advance is good advice.

I'm curious.  What is that loco 227 with the weird tender?

Jersey Central had a few (or more) tank engines that would be used in commuter service without the need of a turntable.

What he said.  It's a little-known model produced by K-line.  I have a pic of the real thing here.  

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