I have a 10E that I just picked up, and noticed there were some light scuff marks on the roof, and would like to get rid of them. Can anyone recommend anything? It is on an MTH PS2 Engine.
Thanks,
JoeG
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Meguiars cleaner wax is mild with diminishing abrasives. It is what I use when in doubt and will remove the least amount of paint and add a protective coating of wax.
Meguiars has also been my choice for years on painted and litho tin cars.
Steve
Steve, Jeff
Meguiars is, to my surprise, also available over here (Netherlands) but there seems to be different types (liquid, paste, quick wax). Could you advice which type you use? I found a train of Ives litho cars this weekend on an train meet (Ives 1707, 1708, 1709 and 1712) that need some cleaning.
Regards
Fred
With this cleaner wax, is it usually necessary to do the whole car to even up the shine after the scuffs are gone?
Joe,
In some areas Meguiars is hard to find. I have been using Mothers Cleaner Wax for years on my vintage pieces with good results. Just a thought.
I wonder if either one is available at Wallymart? I have one on the way home from work
JoeG
Walmart's price $6.77 according to a web search..
Ron M
It will depend on the condition of the piece you are working on. A nice shiny piece, it will not be so obvious, a dirty or faded one, it will need to all be done most likely.
Steve
It will depend on the condition of the piece you are working on. A nice shiny piece, it will not be so obvious, a dirty or faded one, it will need to all be done most likely.
Steve
Thanks, Steve - that sounds logical.
stopping on the way home to get it. It appears they have both brands.
Sometimes I wonder how these items obtain scuffs? I am really careful when handling any items and always have plenty of towels close by , especially for the heavy engines.
JoeG
Joe,
There was a article in the"TCA "Q"(gosh)years ago. As hard as it is to believe, the rubs in almost every case were caused by the box. You're saying,"No way! That old man has more stuffing than a Christmas Goose". It's all about how well they are wrapped and protected (that's a different thread) I am positively convinced that ron m will find the correct TCA"Q" for me. Maybe something to think about the next time we're putting things away without exercising enough care.
There was a article in the"TCA "Q"(gosh)years ago. As hard as it is to believe, the rubs in almost every case were caused by the box.
That's a good point, "Pappy". I remember seeing something on that as well.
All of my tinplate was made before the turn of the last century, and wears its scuffs and scrapes like badges of honor! LOL 
"C-10 Mint – Brand New All Original, Unused, and Unblemished
Trains meeting this standard are among the rarest and most sought after. The key to this standard is “unblemished”. The item must be perfect in every manner. This grade could be compared to “proof” coins which are specially made and handled. Most manufacturers did not include such practices in their manufacturing processes.
Some pieces, even if “brand new”, may have box rubs. Common examples are postwar box cars with painted doors where the door handles have paint rubbed off. A caboose or plastic loco cab may also have a little paint missing off of the raised ladders or handrails. This would put the item in the C-9 or, more likely, C-8 category. When grading items of very high quality, it’s not unusual for collectors to use a magnifying lens to check for flaws." Examples are shown to illustrate these flaws.
Ron M
Joe,
There was a article in the"TCA "Q"(gosh)years ago. As hard as it is to believe, the rubs in almost every case were caused by the box. You're saying,"No way! That old man has more stuffing than a Christmas Goose". It's all about how well they are wrapped and protected (that's a different thread) I am positively convinced that ron m will find the correct TCA"Q" for me. Maybe something to think about the next time we're putting things away without exercising enough care.
I just use furniture polish and it seems to work fine.
All of my tinplate was made before the turn of the last century, and wears its scuffs and scrapes like badges of honor! LOL
Yeah, I like my old beater trains that look genuinely vintage with evidence of a working career. The important thing to me is that all the essential parts are there and they run well !
Ron,
I knew you could find it, Thank you! I'll go back to my corner now.
Still be very careful using Meguiars wax. I used this on my Marx NYC cars and the wax rubbed the paint off the top of the cars when I lightly removed the wax.
And remember with any wax,keep it far away from any parts that you will be painting as it will not let paint adhere to metal.
Well shoot, now I am not sure I want to use it. Previously, I had used Just plain turtle wax turtle wax.
When I purchase original Lionel, Marx, or American Flyer I do not like to use anything on them as I like to keep the original patina.
However, when I purchase the newer production stuff, I like keeping it shiny and new looking. Therefore, I like the scuffs, scratches, etc, kept to a minimum. Again not sure what to use now? 
JoeG
Still be very careful using Meguiars wax. I used this on my Marx NYC cars and the wax rubbed the paint off the top of the cars when I lightly removed the wax.
And remember with any wax,keep it far away from any parts that you will be painting as it will not let paint adhere to metal.
Ace. Would you please post a better picture of what appears to us to be somewhat of a custom on the outside rail of the layout in your last post. Maybe a Marx plastic engine with 10005 cars ? I understand that is in not with the topic of the discussion but it looks very neat . Thank You Gary , Lisa and the Girls
Ace. Would you please post a better picture of what appears to us to be somewhat of a custom on the outside rail of the layout in your last post. Maybe a Marx plastic engine with 10005 cars ? I understand that is in not with the topic of the discussion but it looks very neat . Thank You Gary , Lisa and the Girls
It's a prewar American Flyer Minnehaha train with a 1970's Lionel #8040 2-4-2 loco as substitute power and prewar American Flyer 1121 tender as adaptor for the articulated cars. The original Minnehaha 0-4-4 loco is at left and I have just recently restored it to operation with a Marx motor that I had to custom-fit. I will make a detailed post about this Minnehaha train soon (after I get more pics) because I need to thank the forum member who gifted it to me three years ago. It's a really cool old train with nearly 80 years of genuine scuff marks !!
Back from vacation and want to try the wax. Since the original post I acquired a set of MTH #92 floodlights. Paint is flawless, but notice the brass around the lights has a few black specs. Do you think this wax would help, or should I be using brasso?
JoeG
Well, today I finally tried it! The Meguir's Cleaner Wax, and worked beautifully. I put a small amount on a very soft cloth and applied in small circular motion. It took all of the scuffs off of the roofon the 300 series roof that I picked up at 50% off due to these marks.
It did the same on the matching 10E. Thanks again everyone for all your input.
JoeG
BTW-
I did not see any paint come off on the cloth.I felt better about that.
JoeG
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