Folks:
I'm trying to remove the paint from a recent production metal Lionel PS-4 flatcar. Thus far the paint has been totally resistant to several days of immersion in LA's Awesome (my usual), and then again in 91% isopropyl alcohol. With a steel brush I can get some of the paint off, but it looks very sloppy and does not constitute in my opinion an acceptable foundation for a new paint job. So, what chemical would you recommend? I don't have access to a sand blaster. Thanks.
Price
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1. What is it made of?, plastic die cast? 2. Don't use a steel brush!
Is the car all metal once you remove the wood deck? If so, aircraft stripper, but don’t use that if there is anything plastic, unless you remove it or are fine melting it to goo.
As stated initially, the car is metal- what type specifically I don't know. I already removed the wooden deck. Where does one acquire "aircraft stripper"? Thanks.
Price
The old aircraft stripper with methyl chloride was great, takes painted metal to bare in 5 min or less.
The MC has now been removed, I have some but haven't tried it yet. reviews on the internet of the new formula say it isn't very good.
Didn't tell you what to use, but maybe what not to waste your money on.
I'm curious too.
I have used new brake fluid with some good success. I also like ScaleCoat paint stripper that smells like it has something in it that smells like brake fluid.
Dick
Try powered laundry detergent in boiling water for five minutes works great on prewar tin.
I've had success with diecast paint removal using boiling water and Drano. Use protective gear (rubber gloves and face shield).
Mitch
@M. Mitchell Marmel posted:I've had success with diecast paint removal using boiling water and Drano. Use protective gear (rubber gloves and face shield).
Mitch
For metal Die cast lost wax castings , stamped steel, or brass. I use lacquer thinner in a Paint can, and cleaned up with a cheep 1' hair paint brush. it will remove all and any model paint, enamel or lacquer with out any damage to the metal.
For stripping paint off metal or plastic models, we soak the parts in Super Clean, a strong detergent that is available at many big box hardware stores and online. It has never yet damaged any part. Diluted, Super Clean works for all kinds of clean up.
Thanks for all the options. I think I'll try the lacquer thinner first as it sounds the least dangerous. If that doesn't do it, I'll escalate the treatments till I get where I need to be. Thanks!
Price
Detergent is the least dangerous.
I agree that detergent is the least dangerous; it’s the boiling water part I’m worried about
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