Skip to main content

I was wondering any of you folks put command control in any of your post war engines? If so how did it work out for you? Where do you recommend buying the boards? I have Len from L and L building me the B&O f3 . I have always wanted the B&O f3. They are gorgeous. I was wondering if I could put the boards in the dummy unit and tether them over to the power unit. I would like to leave the e unit alone and just unhook it. Also was wondering if anybody had ever just took a sound board and put in a building and installed in a building so you had sound for your trains instead of trying to put in every engine ? Thanks in advance for any insight you are willing to share with me. 

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Charlie,

For your second question you could use a RailSounds boxcar, if diesel (or a RailSounds tender, if steam).  These cars produce horn, bell, and engine sounds.  They are made to add sound to postwar locomotives without the need for any surgery.  Just couple one of them behind your F3s and off you go.

Here are two examples:

  1. )  6-19859 Diesel RailSounds Railway Express Agency Boxcar (Traditional-Sized)
  2. )  6-17214 Railbox Diesel RailSounds Bell Horn Standard O Gauge Boxcar (O Scale)


Mike

Charlie- I did a upgrade of a pair of Santa Fe F3's a couple years ago. Not true post-war locos (early 90's remakes) but they have AC pullmore motors. Hit a few bumps along the way but for my first attempt at an upgrade and I'm pleased with the results. I used an AC Commander and Railsounds boards from ERR.
John is the man when it comes to this stuff- you're in good hands.

2022-06-11 17.24.28

Bob

Attachments

Images (1)
  • 2022-06-11 17.24.28

I converted postwar F3s with horizontal motors to TMCC using an LCRU, then later, an AC Commander from The Electric RR.

At first I converted both for a whopping 4 motors, the pair could trip breakers, then I switched to powered and dummy, and put an LCRX in the dummy to control the light and coupler.

The biggest problem was I had to run a ground wire over to the frame of the coil coupler for reliable operation, and I recall tying all the grounds together. I added a second set of rollers to the powered unit, works great, but it just cannot match the slow speed operation of modern trains.

I made a drawing in AutoCAD 2D for a brass plate that would sit on the frame. Needless to say, the reversing unit and horn and to come out. Then you open the battery compartment to get at the switch.  I decided it with the LCRU in mind but the AC commander worked too.

Ugh. Some of those dimensions. I should really spec the distance between holes. I think the idea was I could take a set of calipers, set the distance, and scratch from factory edges from a piece of K&S brass.

Attachments

Images (1)
  • F3_LCRU_plate
Last edited by illinoiscentral

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×