Tortoise Switch Machine Wiring

"I assume I need a DPDT switch to throw the Tortoise..."

No, you need only a SPDT (what we call a form-C switch) with no center off position.

A small AC source and two diodes supplies the power.

The Tortoise® machine comes with two form-C contact sets that allow external switching of track power, pilots lamps or relays to do other stuff.

LED's need resistors in series, or you will release the smoke and they will not be happy.

So then I could use a PW-ZW to power all 35 Tortoise machines wired to SPDT toggles rated for 6amps?

1.  You can find the Tortoise instruction sheet online at the Circuitron website.  You want the -6000 sheet, almost at the bottom of the list.

2.   6 amp switches and a ZW does seem like overkill from a current standpoint.

3.  While a non-center-off SPDT is the textbook switch to use, you can use a center-off switch if you have them or they are more economical, etc, etc -- you just shouldn't run a train through the turnout with the switch in the center [ unpowered ] position.  The center position does come in handy if you intend to control a turnout from more than one location -- say, from a 'central' control panel as well as a 'local' control panel.

Best regards, SZ

I use SPST toggles[correctly DPST] to activate my Tortoise since they stall under power. I use the directional lean of the toggle handle within the track schematic to indicate the "thru" or "out" position of the turnout. Simple and quick read of turnout positioning.

I noticed you had a similar post earlier that "disappeared" before I replied above, and was wondering if you really meant to write SPST [ = either 'on' or 'off' ] -- or if you use two SPST's per turnout ???  I do the same as far as control position = turnout position [ well, usually, and with 'known exceptions' such as dual controlled turnouts ] -- but they are SPDT, or DPDT where power routing is also accomplished.

SZ

2. The mini toggles are rated at 6amps @125vdc. The PW ZW is already in use for access power, so why not use it? I can turn up the voltage to what we like best.

3. We haven't bought any toggles yet, thats why we're looking for opinions as to what is the best for our use based on price of the toggles. 

I had tried to scan and post the Tortoise wiring instructions but it was too dim to be legible so I trashed it.

I use single throw on/off for "through" or "out"[mainline or siding]. When I built my existing small 9x16 layout I discontinued using the 7 ASCs that controlled my 32 turnouts from the handheld remote on a former larger layout. Straightforward and simple now- 17 tortoise, a majority in the Service Yard,powered by a 12 VDC wall wart. As you can see on the schematic, the "lean" of the toggle handle tells me at a glance the turnout's position---main or siding.

Dewey, how many wires do you have going to each of those toggle switches ?

SZ

Dewey:

A Tortoise machine operates in one direction with one polarity, and in the opposite direction with reversed polarity. I wonder how you are able to get them to go in two directions using a single-throw switch. Can you show us a wiring diagram?

I have re-read your answer, and if I understand you correctly, you change the polarity of the wires manually, at a terminal strip, when you want the machine to operate in the opposite direction? That seems like a lot of work that could be done with a double-throw switch. Or am I misunderstanding you?

Dewey,

I thought I would help you out a little by posting this link to the Tortoise machine instructions.  This way everyone has a way to see the wiring diagrams.

Jim

http://www.circuitron.com/inde.../ins/800-6000ins.pdf

Thanks Jim! I tried posting the Instructions earlier but they were not legible.

Dewey, thank you for the photos of the machines with two wires, each of which goes to the motor. I now understand that you use a terminal strip during set-up, to avoid the labor of reversing the motor leads at the switch during installation.

Sorry to sound obtuse, however, I still don't see how (perhaps a picture of the other ends of the wires?) you are able to change polarity using single throw (form A) switches.  You say SPST, then correct it to say DPST, but both of those, by definition have either (one) or (two) form A contact sets. There is no way to reverse polarity using Form A contacts.

Jim, yes, that's the diagram that I use on mine. And I, too, understand that the polarity of the motor determines the direction that it turns, but I can't seem to understand how Dewey is getting a reverse polarity out of single-throw switches. By definition, they either are ON or OFF. 

In the Tortoise diagrams, in figure 1, they are using DPDT (2 form C) contacts, and in figures 2 and 3, they are using SPDT (1 form C) contact arrangements.  Since he still maintains that he is not using double-throw (form C) switches,

"...from my recycled DPST Toggles[not SPST as earlier posted]..."

I am still confused.

Well I'll just put an end to the thread I started by saying I ordered DPDT, on-on... no center off position. Led-Switch.com @ 90 cents each.

Almost the end. You bought the correct ones. You can use one half of the switches to operate the machines, or both halves, depending upon which wiring figure from the Tortoise brochure you use.

We wire ours using diodes and the 14-volt AC tap from the transformer as shown in the Tortoise instructions. An added bonus is that the Tortoise machine has an internal resistance of 600 Ohms which allows you to put bi-color LEDs in series with the machines to indicate their status. The current draw on Tortoise machines is so low you can connect a bunch of them. You can even use 9-volt batteries if you have a module so you don't even have to tap the track buss.

The pairs of LEDs can be single bicolor LEDs that have back-to-back chips inside the package.  You only need one mounting hole, and there are fewer wire leads to connect. 

The downside is that color blind folks may not be able to distinguish the colors, but they could tell which of two separate LEDs is lit.  (Same problem with traffic signals.  That is why you don't see a single source that changes colors from red to yellow to green.)

I have tri-color LED's, they basically mix the red & green to come up with yellow.  They look pretty good, though I haven't put them in a single lamp signal.  I don't see them as appropriate for signals, as the position of the light is also a factor in quickly recognizing the signal color.