When I need to cut rail that hasn't been spiked down yet I use a Dremel with a fibreglass reinforced cutoff wheel, or if I am cutting sectional track close to the end of a section.  If the rail is spiked down already or if it is sectional track and the cut is further in from the ends I use a Jewelers saw.  Just depends on the situation.

I use a band saw and a very fine file.

I use Xuron flush cuts, the big pair.  it will deform one side but the other will be flat.  I have used them to shave less than a 32nd of an inch off of code 148 rail.  If the track is laid, what Chris said.

I use the angle head with the EZ change chuck.  I try to cut up from the bottom when ever possible.  Worn cutters are good for close  work.  Set up on a hanger or in a sliding tray you can just buzz around the layout laying flex track.  tt

How big are they? About how long? Thanks.

They are about 6 inches long with the orange handles.  I purchased them from Micromark.

Ken

I use these, from techni-tool, even on code 148 rail, only cut top to bottom not side to side.

They give a nice, flush cut on non-ferrous metals (do not use on steel rail)

I use a pair of these:

Right through code 125 or code 148, or a 16 penny common nail.

I see that this thread is over a year old, but I still have the same question.  I am cutting MTH ScaleTrax which mics out at .190 or code 190 rail.  I'm using the Xuron 2157B cutters.  The ScaleTrax does tax these cutters, but they do work with a little extra effort.

Jim, you stated "I use these, from techi-tool, even on code 148 rail, only cut top to bottom not side to side.  They give a nice, flush cut on non-ferrous metals (do not use on steel rail)."

How do you think the Crescent cutters will work on code 190 rail?

Bob

Why not purchase one of those nice small cut-off saws (actually a cut-off disc for metal work) from Harbor Freight?

I use a powered Miter Saw.

With a Diablo Metal Cut-off Disc. • Not shown in photo

Place track against the fence and get a perfectly squared cut, every time, for curved track follow the same procedures. File if needed.

Click photo to enlarge

The easiest way is to use a Dremel rotary tool with a 2 foot flexible extension and a cutoff disc.  You can cut totally vertical if you have the eye for it.  Dress up the end with a small file and you are finished.  It doesn't matter if the rail is laid or loose.  Wear eye protection at all times.

Ed

Posted by Ed:

The easiest way is to use a Dremel rotary tool with a 2 foot flexible extension and a cutoff disc.  You can cut totally vertical if you have the eye for it.  Dress up the end with a small file and you are finished.  It doesn't matter if the rail is laid or loose.  Wear eye protection at all times.

Ed

Hands down the best way to cut rail.  Simple, clean, fast and no deformation.  Be certain to get the two foot extension so you have better angles.  I have cut dozens of pieces with this tool. And, you have the ability to cut different lengths for each rail for custom fits.  (No two pieces of track have the same lengths on all three rails.  No more running out to the band saw and "hacking" away with a saw.  Find it right in your local Home depot and be sure to get the Dremel EZ Lock metal cutting disks (EZ456).  With a flip of the lock you can replace disks in seconds.

Ditto Ed, flex shaft or 90 degree head.  Love them both.  EZ mount for outright cutting of  rail lengths.  Thin old fashioned standard mount disks for cutting electrical gaps.  You get a narrower gap that way.

Have done a lot of Atlas 2 and 3 rail, MTH both styles and GG.  Have not even touched tubular track in five decades.

Depending on the rail hardness, code 190 solid rail might be pushing it the Crescent Cutters.  If you can find a pair of the same size cutters made by Klein Tools I think their extra strength would be enough.

I don't think Klein makes 7 inch cutters any more.

I use a Dremel abrasive cutoff disc (not a wheel),  followed by a fine pattern file to square off the cut and remove burrs.

Then I have a beer. 

Rip Track

Dremel.

Jim, are these the cutters you are making reference to?

Bob

Just a note:

This is the 2-rail forum. But, some recommendations being made are for 3-rail track. These are overkill in the 2-rail world. On the other hand, some of the cutters recommended are great for solid rail up to about code 148, but not the larger and sometimes hollow 3-rail track.

Jim

Thank you Jim.  I appreciate your input.

My preferred too for cutting rail is a #409 cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool - always while wearing close fitting eye protection.  For convenience I use a  rechargeable battery powered model.  I find a "portable" drill press vice handy to hold the rail/ track piece rock steady while making cuts as it frees up a second hand to steady the Dremel tool.  I also use the cutoff wheel to gap the rail where required.  To prevent later closure I fill the gap with .005" styrene epoxied in place and filed to rail contour.  With 2400' of track and over 100 hand laid turnouts down the Dremel has proven to be a very useful tool.

Ed Rappe 

I agree eye protection is essential. However, beware of an issue when using safety glasses / goggles.

Many years ago I finished cutting some sheet metal using safety goggles. After I removed them I felt a stinging in my eye which our company quack diagnosed  as an infection. After some days of no improvement I went to see someone else at an eye clinic who removed a relatively large piece of metal from my eye.

The lesson is to exercise caution when removing safety glasses. If they are made of a plastic material metal shavings may stick to them and subsequently end up in your eye. I learned to keep my eyes closed when removing eye protection.

Good information! 

I've seen that on my glasses where metal "dust" coats sections due to static charges - hard to remove w/o scratching them as well at times

Proxxon Mini Chop Miter Saw for Hobby Use

available from micro-mark; this allows infinite angle cuts as well. note that

blade shown is not the abrasive blade I use.

I bought a Klien flush cutting plier from McMaster-Carr.

Larry

Looks like you could get one for ~$200 +/- a bit.  Little over a 3" blade.....

Neat toy - might have to find a place in the shop for one of these!!! 

Using a Dremel cutoff wheel means you have to grind your way through the rail, which is time-consuming.

I prefer to use the Dremel disc, which lets you slice throuh the rail, which is much fasster!

RIP TRACK

Works for me.

And did you drink your Ovaltine?

Hal,  Dremel refers to the (discs) as Cut-off wheels.

Larry, do you have the part number for the cutters so I can look them up.

Bob

Hal said,

"Using a Dremel cutoff wheel means you have to grind your way through the rail, which is time-consuming."

I just finished "grinding" my way through code 148 steel rail and it took ten seconds at the most.  After the cut, the rail end took only a minimal number of file strokes to be ready for a rail joiner.  I used a Dremel cutoff wheel, #409, on a flexible shaft.

Ed

By hand. At least 20 tooth per inch hacksaw blade.

Ed,

For some folks, 10 seconds is just probably an eternity....in the instant gratification universe. 

I'm surprised that Hal just doesn't bite through the rails neatly and put it into place...

Dremel tool and reinforced fiberglass cutoff wheel used to cut Gargrave steel Phantom rail, for cutting isolation joints on mounted rail I use an Excel or Zona saw  

I wouldn't want to damage my dentures, Martin.

Rip Track

That's what I did on all of my hand laid track and 25+ switches...I love it...a nice clean,quick cut with as you said a couple strokes with a file to smooth it up.  Now...back to more track laying....  

Congrats Jim,

You are the first to decode the binary message.  That is a great movie!.  The Klien cutters work great.

Larry

I believe the item number was 3706A89 

Larry