Track Recommenations

I used the tubular track from MTH and have been very happy with it. I would also contact USA Track. Kirk Lindvig from the Standard Gauge Module Association is part owner. Their prices are good. Here is their website.

http://www.standardgaugetrack.com/

NJCJOE is correct. I might add this. Keep it the way it was. Tube track all the way.

God Bless,

Pappy

TCA TTOS

thanks for that link, Joe.  i've been considering/ procrastinating over getting some wide radius curves (#400's really look foolish on 42"d curves!) and this looks like just the ticket!  quite reasonably priced, i hope cross country shipping doesn't hurt too much.

Be careful with the MTH tubular track.  The old stuff (catalog number with prefix 10-) was good, the same as historically made by lionel.  The new stuff (any tubular track with prefix 11-) is extremely poor quality, made of thinner metal, easily kinked or bent, the ties are very thin tin and painted instead of blued steel (the paint has the potential to create havoc with outside rail ground).

Kirk at USA Track has the tooling and is making the good old-style standard gauge tubular track, and making here in USA.   Order via email, this is the best option at present.  He also offers extra ties, extra insulators to make your own insulated outside rail sections, custom lengths, and more curve radii than were ever available in tubular.

Switches, the only real standard gauge option is MTH.  Gargraves does make some good ones, but they aren't plug and play like the MTH 42's and 72's.  The MTH's are also non-derailing.  They have their faults but they are the closest thing to original.  Ross is coming out with a range of standard gauge switches and in a year or so we may have some more options.   Right now, I'd go with USA for track and use the MTH switches with the thought of upgrading to Ross switches sometime in a couple years when/if their line materializes.

Thanks guys for the vote of confidence in USA Track.  We take pride in making track entirely in the USA from components made in the USA with our tooling.  The chinese made track doesn't begin to compare in quality, and our USA made track is less expensive.  That's a win-win for Standard Gauge enthusiasts!

I'll be at "York" on Friday for the Ives meeting at noon if anyone wants to avoid shipping costs by picking up an order of track there.

Kirk

Kirk's track is THE way to go! 

For switches I'm using, Lionel 222's and 223 old stuff from the 20's and 30"s I think.

I took them all apart, rewired them and cleaned them up and they work really well.

Only thing my American Flyer Coach cars have trouble going over them. but the

Lionel stuff work good.

Tin

So I got my first bunch of track of off ebay.  It's a mix of USA Track and MTH tubular standard gauge.  I'd really have to say this stuff is very tough to connect!  Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but I was wondering if you guys have a technique or tool that you use.

Also, I imagine the pins are removable?  This would allow me to change the direction of the curve.  I assume I would use pliers to pull thos pins out?

The T-Tracker II (ttracker2@aol.com or 503-281-9030) will join your track sections without problems.  Be sure to specify the Standard Gauge version.  Alternatively, gently tap the bases of the far end of the rails with a tack hammer to advance the rails over the adjoining track pins.

Don't forget you should always tap a track pin IN before you try to pull it OUT.  This avoids distorting the end of the rail by twisting the pin.

Email me at standardgaugetrack@gmail.com if you need additional information.

Kirk

Frank,

The USA track is fantastic. When I figure a way to age it, I'll use mine. All of my track is prewar Lionel, Ives and Flyer. My switches are all Lionel 222. I bought all of mine from TCA friends. I see it on eBay from time to time. I'd stay away from the Tracker II. You can buy a whole bunch of track and four MTH switches for what one will cost you. Also, it's not worth a hoot on curves. I couldn't even sell mine for one-half of new.

Bob Nelson, a charter member of the SGMA and a super enthusiastic collector of all things Milwaukee Road, has some huge electric profile Milwaukee Road Standard Gauge locomotives that need the full 10.5" of clearance.  These were not custom pieces, but the product of one of the small modern manufacturers of Standard Gauge (sorry I can't remember who).  I think the required vertical clearance will essentially depend on what you plan to run.  It is always a plus to be able to accommodate visiting power!  If you plan to have several loops or routes, each can have its own minimum radius and clearance standards.  Just don't send the Brute or Hiawatha down the wrong track!

I started using the newer, Lionel Corporation (MTH) track with the plastic roadbed.  I am thinking of replacing the track for the floor layout with it.  It does not look like traditional standard gauge track, but is stiffer on carpet and works very well, so far.

My method of joining standard gauge tubular track:

Use heavy duty leather gauntlet work gloves and join a SINGLE pin into a single hole in the tubular track and work it back and forth while turning. Repeat for the other two holes, and then do the same thing for the other end of the track.

After loosening the holes in this manner, once again use the gloves to carefully join the sections. The loosened joints will still be tight enough to hold together well!

Works for me! 

Remember the acronym, KISS: Keep It Simple Simon!

frank, if you don't have a pair, you need a pair of "track pliers" that are specifically made for tubular track.  be sure to get the ones for the track you are using (027, O, standard gauge).  They have grooves in the jaws to fit the tubular cross section of the track, so you won't squash it flat when you grip it.  They help tremendously when putting track together and taking it apart.  They are also used to reform and resize the tubular sections when they get damaged.  Also, there is a way you can grip the pins with the cut-off part of the plier and lever them out gently.    Track pliers and leather gloves, and a little practice, and you'll be set.  

Never lever out track pins. Tap them in to release the crimp then pull straight out. You need track pliers because you levered the stuff out and messed everything up. To get the joints tight tap the other end of the rail with a hammer and block of wood you will barely see a seam. You push the track in as tight as it will go then put the block of wood on the rail under the pins and tap it tight holding the piece you are tapping into firmly to the table. You do not need leather gloves or track pliers.

BTW tubular STG rail is the same rail as O-gauge.

well, you might notice that i said there is a way to lever out the pins carefully.  if you grab hold and twist, you'll deform the rail of course.  if you do it right the pin slides straight out cleanly.   Track pliers are essential because, unless you're using new track, somebody somewhere along the line has indeed messed it up.  Hammer and block is fine, especially if you're putting together two 14" straight pieces.  try to hammer and block 3 or 4 curves together and you'll be chasing your tail all over the bench.  and taking them apart is another matter.   without leather gloves (the gauntlets are a little overkill - just some light leather gloves) you will slice your hands at some point, as the edge of the rail slides in your palm.

As always, To each his own, YMMV, do what works for you, there no right or wrong answer, etc etc.

BTW what Jim and Kirk are referring to with O and Standard having the same size rail is that the pins are the same, and therefore take the same size plier, unlike the O27 which is smaller.

To each his/her own, but my system with the gloves has NEVER failed me, and my assembled track is tight as a drum, and with NO distortion.

Remember, it is wise to use the LEAST amount of force necessary to do the job. 

 Standard O and STG rail are one in the same. The difference is the ties. They change the the track gauge and the rail height. STG track is about a track pin taller. If you try to mate them the bottom of the STG track pin will just touch the top of the O-gauge rail. The insulators and track pins are interchangeable.

Somebody referred to MTH switches as "plug and play." The 42" switches are, the 72" are not. About a year ago I installed three of them on a museum layout. They required extensive work to fit and operate properly. Among other things, the straight exit side will not mate up with a regular section of track - you have to modify the track that connects to the switch. I posted a very long message on this subject at the time, which unfortunately is no longer in the archives. Just know that if you get MTH STD-72 switches, you'd better have good mechanical skills. as well as a hacksaw and a grinder or Dremel tool. 

The only hope for wide radius switches is to wait for Ross. The MTH ones are junk. 

I suspect Steve Ross may have something for us at York.  If not, it will be soon.  The MTH switches are pretty, but leave a lot to be desired from an operational point of view.

BTW, I'll be at York on Friday, April 20th, for the SGMA breakfast meeting at the Reliance Cafe at 0800 and at the Ives meeting in Orange Hall at noon if anyone needs Standard Gauge track and wants to avoid the shipping expense.  Please let me know ahead of time so that I can bring the right track!!  (42,57,72,84 and 87 curves are available, as well as 14 & 36 inch straights.)

It really is a little strange why the MTH 72 switches are made the way they are.  Why would you make a switch that doesn't mate with a piece of track?  We've all found ways to make it work, but it is less than ideal.

Not to get too off subject, but the other thing that would be very nice is if the standard gauge switches could be made so that the switch motor could be repositioned.  Aren't lionel's O gauge 022 switches made so you can turn the switch motor around so the lantern is on the straight side of the switch instead of on the curved side?  I would love to see that on a standard gauge switch.

we're hopeful for the ross standard gauge switches, but my impression is that he's trying to do a hi-rail scale thing in standard gauge, and i don't think that's going to work for most standard gauge tinplaters.  A #4 switch will not replace any existing standard gauge switches without completely rebuilding the trackage.

Kirk:

I didn't know about your track until reading this post. Will you have samples of the track at YORK? It sounds great and I don't have such a large investment in tinplate track now that it would make a difference to switch from the Lionel that I have.  If you won't have samples just let me know and I'll place a small order and then move from there. I can pick it up prior to or after the Ives meeting. Thank you.

Somebody should ask Mike Wolf (or whoever is running the MTH booth) that question at York. I think I know the answer, but if I'm right, it's dumb (OK, it's dumb no matter what). My guess is that they decided to build a switch that was 14" long (the same length as a regular straight). Unfortunately, at that length the curve interferes with the connection to the straight track, and the dies were already made before they realized their mistake. Stamping dies are so expensive that they just decided to go ahead rather than redesign it. What they should have done is made it longer and included a special filler section in the package, so that it replaces two straight sections instead of one. 

Incidentally, that isn't the only problem with those switches. Not by a long shot. I spent about three hours on each of ours before I was satisfied with the results.

I will have some samples of the USA Track at my table at York. Stop by the Silver Hall D-21 to see some of his work.

ARNO

Kirk, you make great tinplate track.  I bet you could make great tinplate switches, that would take into account the concerns expressed here.

I can only be at York on Friday this month, so USA Track won't have a table there this time.  The attached photo shows most of the track sections we have in stock, and Arno has offered to have a few pieces at his table for hands on examination.  BTW, the picture shows part (1/4th) of our portable display, which will have a circle of track for operating trains when we can get two tables back to back.  Everyone will be invited to test any new purchases when they stop by our table.  Perhaps next October!

Let's see what Steve comes up with for his Standard gauge switch.  I don't really think I can afford the tooling that would be required to make a tinplate switch.  Perhaps we'll all be pleasantly surprised with the Ross offering.

Kirk