I have a MTH SP AC6, cab forward, 4-8-8-2, #20-2035, PS I. I installed a BCR from J & W Electronics, "charged" the BCR, made one circuit around an 0-72 test track, and promptly threw off two traction tires. The supposed "owner's manual" states to replace the tire, the side rods must be removed. The "manual" has no parts list, exploded drawings (apparently neither are available from MTH), nor any suggestions on how this is to be done. My question is: "What is the sequence in removing the side rods on this engine?" Thank you, Syd Dann
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To remove the rods, you unscrew the bolts holding the rods to the wheels using a hex nut driver. Remove the old traction tires, install new ones, and reinstall the rods.
Larry
Larry, Thank you for the suggestion. I have attempted that with a 5mm open end ignition wrench. The wheel in question is the front one. When the bolt is loosened, the head binds on the "valve gear" or whatever it is called coming from the "cylinder." There is insufficient clearance to "unthread" the entire bolt. Thanks for responding, Syd
On steam engines, never had to remove more than one hex head screw to drop the side rod down to get the new traction tire over the grooved Drive wheel.
The nut driver usually comes with these engines.
It may be helpful to use to small flat head screw drivers to assist in moving the new tire into the groove. The diameter of the TT is smaller than the DW. As the tire is placed in the groove,the tire has to be spread in diameter over the edge of the wheel. The screw drivers can be used to coax the tire into place.
Generally you do not have to 'remove' the side rod, just the screw, then slide the traction tire between the rod and the wheel. As Pennsyk4 said then use small screwdrivers to spread the tire into position. It is a very tight fit.
Larry, Thank you for the suggestion. I have attempted that with a 5mm open end ignition wrench. The wheel in question is the front one. When the bolt is loosened, the head binds on the "valve gear" or whatever it is called coming from the "cylinder." There is insufficient clearance to "unthread" the entire bolt. Thanks for responding, Syd
Did you try rotating the wheel downward to gain clearance before loosing [removing] the rod screw?
To pennysk4 and pennsydave, Thank you for the suggestions. Unfortunately, rotating the wheel down puts the bolt head in a worse position. I suspect just removing the bolt to allow the tire to slip under will be satisfactory. That, of course, is predicated on removing the bolt in the first place. Again, thanks for responding. Syd
You may have to remove the boiler shell if you can't get to the rod screw. I don't normally run into that, but I have had a couple that I've had to remove the boiler to get to them.
The correct ID for that engine is 20-3025-2 and after checking the manual there are not explicit instructions. Usually the traction tires are on the last set of drive wheels where removing the drive rod screw for that wheel is all you need to do.
Unfortunately I can't help further, maybe someone who has an AC-6 can chime in.
Syd sent me a few pictures, if you look at them, you'll see why you can't just take the last screw out. That's the usual cure, but in this case it's a bit more complex. No way to get the proper screw out, so the cure is taking the other three off and dropping the traction tire over the rod, then you can put it on.
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Just my opinion, but when something like that has happened to one of my articulated models, I simply cut the tire off and use Bull Frog Snot.
Dear Hot Water,
I thought about doing that. I am told it has a rather thin consistency. Finally got the offending tire off and can, presumably with diligence, put the new one on. If this becomes a constant problem, I'll probably throw in the towel and resort to BFS or some other silicone adhesive/build up.
Thanks for responding,
Syd
To all who replied: THANK YOU, esp, gunrunnerjohn. I have replaced the thrown off traction tire.
Thanks again to all,
Regards, Syd
I didn't think of that technique. When I did mine, I removed the drive rod, the one that goes into the steam chest. That allowed me to remove the main rod screw through the hole where the valve gear was.