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I have found that wooden cocktail sticks are very handy when replacing traction tyres. By using 2 of them between the wheel and the tyre when re-fitting the tyre, you can gently ease the tyre over the rim and into the groove in the same way that you use a pair of tyre-irons on a bicycle wheel. Because they are tapered, they are easy to remove when you reach the end too. 

I have found that cursing loudly and threatening the locomotive with bodily harm does not really help the situation, but makes me feel better. 

 

Rather than wooden cocktial sticks, I use small strips, about 3/16 inch wide, that I cut from old credit cards - the long direction.  They are long enough to use as a tool, cheap, and seem to work a bit better than wood.

Originally Posted by Marty Fitzhenry:

Just a quick tip.  If your engine has brake shoes on the drivers, remove them as it will make life easier.  One screw is all it takes.

An excellent tip, I recently tried to get them on without removing the brake shoes, that was a mistake!  I also marvel at the folks that say to put them on diesels with the side frames still on, also makes the job much harder.

> Keep a supply of various diameter traction tires on hand.

> Use a traction tire at least one size smaller in diameter than the manufacturer recommends.

> Thoroughly clean the groove in each drive wheel with a solvent on a cotton swab. Makes sure the drivers are dry before installing new traction tires.

> Do not reuse any traction tire.

> Check that the width of the new traction tires will fit into the groove in the drivers.

> Check that the new traction tires are elastic and not dried-out.

> Also make sure that both traction tires are the same thickness, and without lumps in the rubber.

> MTH steam engines require a 5mm nut driver to remove / install the side rod bolt.

> Start the traction and hold it in position with a finger. Then insert a tooth pick or jeweler's screwdriver between the the driver and tire and stretch the tire around the wheel. Check to be sure the tire is seated in the groove.

> When installing the side rod bolts, grease the threads, do not cross-thread them, make sure the shoulder of each bolt passes the through the side rod and very lightly snug the bolt.

> Diesel, electric locomotive, subway and trolley car traction tires are the most difficult to replace because it usually requires disassembly of the trucks to get the side frames out of the way.

> Best done on the work bench rather than the layout.

> Lay the locomotive on its side, not upside down.

> Replace all of the traction tires on a locomotive at the same time.

> If its a DCS locomotive, record the date and chronometer reading.

> Buy now you should be thinking that traction tires need to made of better material so they are more durable. Yep, that's right.

> Consider using Dennis' economical silicone technique.

> Frog snot is a very expensive traction tire substitute.

> Liquid tract cleaners, lubricants and smoke fluid on the track degrades traction tires.

I am a rookie working on o gauge trains.  I am having a problem with traction tires coming off of my mth daylight locomotive.  I think when it was stored it fell too its side and some of the smoke fluid leaked out and got into the wheels thus making the traction tires slip off.  Can anyone give advice on the best way to thoroughly clean the locomotive, the wheels and other small moving parts?  What can I use to clean the oily substance off?  I read where some people use q-tips dipped in solvent.  Any pointers are welcome.  Thanks for a neat forum.

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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