Train room shelf

Start by doing a search on this forum. The topic has been discussed numerous times. Here’s what I got from using the search words “ceiling shelf layout” in advanced search.

https://ogrforum.com/...agination.sort=SCORE

I used 3/4" plywood supported by steel RubberMaid brackets, every 16".  This is probably overkill, but it worked well.  MDF would be heavier than plywood.  I joined the plywood together on the butted ends with the Kreg system.  If you are interested, I have several of the Rubbermaid brackets, unused and available.  

I use 3/4 inch Pine for my G scale going around the room.  No problems and didn't break the bank.

Poolboy, I just completed my trainshelf last year.  I put a link to the youtube video that describes how I did it and with what.  After finishing this project, I learned what works great and what didn't work so great.  I've listed below some pointers that may help you. 

1) Try to stay away from the  various types of plywoods, they tend to warp and may cause serious issues down the road.  I used the MDF.  That stuff is amazing and won't warp.  It's also very, very strong.

2) Don't overkill/overengineer the shelf.  I used 1 inch thick mdf.  It was way too much.  In hindsight, 1/2 inch would have been ideal.  1/2 inch would easily hold up cinderblocks and is also cheaper on the wallet. 

3) Make the shelf as wide as possible.  I made my shelf 6 inches wide.  I regret it and wish I would have made it 12 inches wide.  That would have given me the option to run 2 sets of track opposed to 1. 

4) Make your curves as wide as possible.  I used 0-60 curves but soon realized, I couldn't really run any scale equipment (steamers etc...).  I tore it down and recut the corners to facilitate 0-72 corners.  A year later, I want to do it all over again with even wider corners.  Also, the wider the curve radius, the safer it will be.  Wider curves decrease the chance of a high-speed derailment. 

5)  I made my shelf 12 inches below the ceiling.  If you're going to be running O gauge trains, you may want to make the shelf 18 inches below the ceiling.  That would give more options for backgrounds and also opens up the possibility of adding more building types as they tend to be taller than 12 inches (factory's etc...).

There's some really helpful folks on the forums here so don't hesitate to ask if you need any help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NpKtws1fAuw

 My boss in Arizona taught me how to build proper strong shelves for closets and such. The key for strength and to resist warping, is to apply a front edge stapled and glued on vertically to the front edge. Usually this is 1x2" custom routed. It also can be spare plywood strips for even higher strength. Also applied to the wall for the back screwed to the studs. Then the corbels are added.

It could be overkill? It's what's under my train tables around the walls in my basement.

 If you wanted to stand on it (or park your car) you could apply several vertical plywood strips underneath like the real RR's do with steel under bridges! 

Because it has been brought up earlier in this thread, I just wanted to mention that plywood generally won't warp or twist if it is kept dry.  Most train rooms are relatively stable in temperature and humidity.  If a problem is anticipated, just paint both sides and all edges of the plywood and it will be sealed from moisture absorption in the future and will be stabilized.  

Any hard wood works, make it 3/4 or 1 inch, no warp but it gets expensive. Popular, Oak anything like that works and it you put a bull nose or rounded edge on the wood, it looks nice