I have a 32" Bowser turntable. It doesn't turn smoothly but stutters. The faster it moves the more the stutter is noticeable.
Any ideas what may be causing this?
Original Post
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Originally Posted by MyToyTrains:
I have a 32" Bowser turntable. It doesn't turn smoothly but stutters. The faster it moves the more the stutter is noticeable.
Any ideas what may be causing this?
If you still have the original Bowser "drive system", which is a piece of crap, you will never get all the stutter out of the table movement. Contact Ross Custom Switches or CSX Al (Millhouse River Studios), both whom advertise in OGR Magazine, and inquire about their up-grade drive kits for the Bowser turntable.
Originally Posted by Hot Water:
If you still have the original Bowser "drive system", which is a piece of crap, you will never get all the stutter out of the table movement. Contact Ross Custom Switches or CSX Al (Millhouse River Studios), both whom advertise in OGR Magazine, and inquire about their up-grade drive kits for the Bowser turntable.
This has been a long ongoing project. I had upgraded the Bowser drive mechanism to the second motor and third pulley but that still didn't provide enough drive and the turntable stopped in places when it had my heavy Big Boy on it.
I upgraded to the Ross drive and the turntable now doesn't get stuck but stutters badly especially when it runs faster.
I figure that either the bogie wheels or the center bearing have too much friction which might cause the stuttering (although it seems OK when I disconnect the drive and turn it by hand-although it is heavy with the engine on it). I wanted to see if anyone has seen this or has some ideas what might be causing it.
Originally Posted by JohnS:
sounds like it is time for a breakdown, inspection and lubrication.
I think you are correct. I have been trying to get it working for many years. When they say a layout is never done, I didn't think they were talking about the turntable. Last time I took it apart I snapped off a piece of the walkway so I end up with more work when I was done.
I agree with the others about the two aftermarket systems available for the 32" Bowser. It is time for an upgrade.
For mine, I installed an antenna rotor motor around 10 years ago. It is a 12V very slow motion motor that I control with an old HO power pack. It did require a complete dis-assembly of the table and a little thinking to make it all work.
It will easily turn my Challengers and BigBoy. I line it up by eye, no indexing required. I am not sure if the motors are still available, I should have bought a bunch of them.
Since you already have the Ross upgrade, I would look at the boogie wheels and lubricate or possibly the bridge is binding or not exactly level and square.
Donald
Originally Posted by MyToyTrains:
I have a 32" Bowser turntable. It doesn't turn smoothly but stutters. The faster it moves the more the stutter is noticeable.
Any ideas what may be causing this?
It's a piece of !@#$ Bowser turntable. I know I have one. Time to upgrade the drive mechanism to what Hot Water has suggested
Plus, lubricate the center bearing (by pulling the whole bridge & drive shaft assembly up-wards) with that "Red and Tacky" stuff. That drastically helped mine.
Originally Posted by Hot Water:
Plus, lubricate the center bearing (by pulling the whole bridge & drive shaft assembly up-wards) with that "Red and Tacky" stuff. That drastically helped mine.
I did the same on mine too. The shaft was starting to seize to the bearing
from just sitting idle. I caught it b4 it totally froze up. A friend of mine has one
that siezed and he has never been able to free it. One thought is that the
set screws might be getting loose and allowing some play. This too would cause
the bridge to "stutter" as it turns. Mine became a little loose over time and
tightening the set screws smoothed it out some. I agree with the others, it
certainly is a lot of work to keep it running.
Wish I could get paid for this maintence 
Joe
Originally Posted by superwarp1:
Originally Posted by MyToyTrains:
I have a 32" Bowser turntable. It doesn't turn smoothly but stutters. The faster it moves the more the stutter is noticeable.
Any ideas what may be causing this?
It's a piece of !@#$ Bowser turntable. I know I have one. Time to upgrade the drive mechanism to what Hot Water has suggested
Gary,
If you upgrade with our kit, I always offer the option to upgrade to a new table less the drive kit cost if the Bowser still doesn't work out. P.S. our drive has all metal gears and metal gear box. 
Almost forgot, The gearbox uses plastic gears and so for I have broken
two of the final drive gears. They tend to split in half. The easiest way to
check for this is to see if you can turn the drive spindel. If it "free wheels"
the gear is gone. You have to take the gearbox apart and replace it. So
far I have done this twice in the past 5-6 years. I'm now out of spares. 
Joe
Originally Posted by Hot Water:
Plus, lubricate the center bearing (by pulling the whole bridge & drive shaft assembly up-wards) with that "Red and Tacky" stuff. That drastically helped mine.
I was going to ask what that "Red and Tacky" stuff was but I figured I would look it up first and sure enough I found it. Just want to make sure this is the same stuff you are talking about:
www.amazon.com/Lucas-10005-Red-N-Tacky-Grease-oz-Tube/dp/B000ARPVO8/
Is this "better" than a tube of hobby grease?
Originally Posted by JoeTheBro:
One thought is that the set screws might be getting loose and allowing some play. This too would causethe bridge to "stutter" as it turns. Mine became a little loose over time andtightening the set screws smoothed it out some. I agree with the others, it certainly is a lot of work to keep it running. Wish I could get paid for this maintence
Joe
A couple of years ago I had the same problem with the set screws. After stripping the socket I finally got fed up and epoxied the shaft at the top...at least now I don't have to worry about the set screw any more!
I totally agree about the maintenance. My wife can't believe I am still complaining about the turntable.
Part of the problem with the Bowser TT is that the boggy wheels are not set perpendicular to a radius of the bridge. This creates drag.
They need to be set like this.
The difference between straight and a slight angle at the end of a 16" torque arm is huge. Note that the wheels align with the pit rail and roll, not drag.
Second the center of the TT should bear no weight at all. The bridge plus what ever engine is on it should be totally supported by the pit rail and boggies. The 5/16 Bowser shaft is too small and may even bend with the newer Ross or Millhouse drive systems. Add weight to it since the wood bridge will bow down and it will bind .
The Diamond Scale design had no weight on the turn mechanics, the bridge floated outside the turn block. It also had a 7/16" drive shaft.
The bridge is not attached to the turn block.
As an engine rolls on to the bridge track, the bridge will flex down not affecting the turn block. Also it is extremely difficult to get the pit rail perfectly level. This floating design allows the bridge to adjust up and down as it rolls around on the pit rail.
Both the Ross and Milhouse drive systems simply overpower the imperfections of the Bowser TT. They don't really address the flaws in the design.
Properly designed you should be able to turn a 15 pound engine or more with minimal effort.
I do have an 80 to 1 gear reduction but this very small DC motor has never failed.
They need to be set like this.
The difference between straight and a slight angle at the end of a 16" torque arm is huge. Note that the wheels align with the pit rail and roll, not drag.
Second the center of the TT should bear no weight at all. The bridge plus what ever engine is on it should be totally supported by the pit rail and boggies. The 5/16 Bowser shaft is too small and may even bend with the newer Ross or Millhouse drive systems. Add weight to it since the wood bridge will bow down and it will bind .
The Diamond Scale design had no weight on the turn mechanics, the bridge floated outside the turn block. It also had a 7/16" drive shaft.
The bridge is not attached to the turn block.
As an engine rolls on to the bridge track, the bridge will flex down not affecting the turn block. Also it is extremely difficult to get the pit rail perfectly level. This floating design allows the bridge to adjust up and down as it rolls around on the pit rail.
Both the Ross and Milhouse drive systems simply overpower the imperfections of the Bowser TT. They don't really address the flaws in the design.
Properly designed you should be able to turn a 15 pound engine or more with minimal effort.
I do have an 80 to 1 gear reduction but this very small DC motor has never failed.
Myself Ihave a ross turntable just plug and play Vince
Originally Posted by CSX Al:
Originally Posted by superwarp1:
Originally Posted by MyToyTrains:
I have a 32" Bowser turntable. It doesn't turn smoothly but stutters. The faster it moves the more the stutter is noticeable.
Any ideas what may be causing this?
It's a piece of !@#$ Bowser turntable. I know I have one. Time to upgrade the drive mechanism to what Hot Water has suggested
Gary,
If you upgrade with our kit, I always offer the option to upgrade to a new table less the drive kit cost if the Bowser still doesn't work out. P.S. our drive has all metal gears and metal gear box.
Al, I've been waiting for the stars to align, Money in hand, wife not looking When they do I'll get a call for the kit.
Originally Posted by Mike CT:
Part of the problem with the Bowser TT is that the boggy wheels are not set perpendicular to a radius of the bridge. This creates drag.
They need to be set like this.
The difference between straight and a slight angle at the end of a 16" torque arm is huge. Note that the wheels align with the pit rail and roll, not drag.
Second the center of the TT should bear no weight at all. The bridge plus what ever engine is on it should be totally supported by the pit rail and boggies. The 5/16 Bowser shaft is too small and may even bend with the newer Ross or Millhouse drive systems. Add weight to it since the wood bridge will bow down and it will bind .
The Diamond Scale design had no weight on the turn mechanics, the bridge floated outside the turn block. It also had a 7/16" drive shaft.
The bridge is not attached to the turn block.
As an engine rolls on to the bridge track, the bridge will flex down not affecting the turn block. Also it is extremely difficult to get the pit rail perfectly level. This floating design allows the bridge to adjust up and down as it rolls around on the pit rail.
Both the Ross and Milhouse drive systems simply overpower the imperfections of the Bowser TT. They don't really address the flaws in the design.
Properly designed you should be able to turn a 15 pound engine or more with minimal effort.
I do have an 80 to 1 gear reduction but this very small DC motor has never failed.
They need to be set like this.
The difference between straight and a slight angle at the end of a 16" torque arm is huge. Note that the wheels align with the pit rail and roll, not drag.
Second the center of the TT should bear no weight at all. The bridge plus what ever engine is on it should be totally supported by the pit rail and boggies. The 5/16 Bowser shaft is too small and may even bend with the newer Ross or Millhouse drive systems. Add weight to it since the wood bridge will bow down and it will bind .
The Diamond Scale design had no weight on the turn mechanics, the bridge floated outside the turn block. It also had a 7/16" drive shaft.
The bridge is not attached to the turn block.
As an engine rolls on to the bridge track, the bridge will flex down not affecting the turn block. Also it is extremely difficult to get the pit rail perfectly level. This floating design allows the bridge to adjust up and down as it rolls around on the pit rail.
Both the Ross and Milhouse drive systems simply overpower the imperfections of the Bowser TT. They don't really address the flaws in the design.
Properly designed you should be able to turn a 15 pound engine or more with minimal effort.
I do have an 80 to 1 gear reduction but this very small DC motor has never failed.
Hi Mike,
You have some interesting ideas and I have a few questions.
Did you create the angled wheels and if so do you have an tips on how you did it?
Would you explain a little more details how the turn block works, how it is attached to the bridge, can this be done to a Bowser turntable, etc.
Thanks!
Originally Posted by MyToyTrains:
Originally Posted by Mike CT:
Part of the problem with the Bowser TT is that the boggy wheels are not set perpendicular to a radius of the bridge. This creates drag..................................................
The difference between straight and a slight angle at the end of a 16" torque arm is huge. Note that the wheels align with the pit rail and roll, not drag.
Second the center of the TT should bear no weight at all. The bridge plus what ever engine is on it should be totally supported by the pit rail and boggies. The 5/16 Bowser shaft is too small and may even bend with the newer Ross or Millhouse drive systems. Add weight to it since the wood bridge will bow down and it will bind .
The Diamond Scale design had no weight on the turn mechanics, the bridge floated outside the turn block. It also had a 7/16" drive shaft.
The bridge is not attached to the turn block.
As an engine rolls on to the bridge track, the bridge will flex down not affecting the turn block. Also it is extremely difficult to get the pit rail perfectly level. This floating design allows the bridge to adjust up and down as it rolls around on the pit rail...................
Both the Ross and Milhouse drive systems simply overpower the imperfections of the Bowser TT. They don't really address the flaws in the design.
Properly designed you should be able to turn a 15 pound engine or more with minimal effort.
I do have an 80 to 1 gear reduction but this very small DC motor has never failed.
...................................................
The difference between straight and a slight angle at the end of a 16" torque arm is huge. Note that the wheels align with the pit rail and roll, not drag.
Second the center of the TT should bear no weight at all. The bridge plus what ever engine is on it should be totally supported by the pit rail and boggies. The 5/16 Bowser shaft is too small and may even bend with the newer Ross or Millhouse drive systems. Add weight to it since the wood bridge will bow down and it will bind .
The Diamond Scale design had no weight on the turn mechanics, the bridge floated outside the turn block. It also had a 7/16" drive shaft.
The bridge is not attached to the turn block.
As an engine rolls on to the bridge track, the bridge will flex down not affecting the turn block. Also it is extremely difficult to get the pit rail perfectly level. This floating design allows the bridge to adjust up and down as it rolls around on the pit rail...................
Both the Ross and Milhouse drive systems simply overpower the imperfections of the Bowser TT. They don't really address the flaws in the design.
Properly designed you should be able to turn a 15 pound engine or more with minimal effort.
I do have an 80 to 1 gear reduction but this very small DC motor has never failed.
...................................................
Hi Mike,
You have some interesting ideas and I have a few questions.
Did you create the angled wheels and if so do you have an tips on how you did it?This set of boggies was copied from a Diamond Scale set. I believe a few of the original Milhouse TT's had Diamond Scale boggies.
Would you explain a little more details how the turn block works, how it is attached to the bridge, It is not attached to the bridge. The bridge structure sets over the turn block. With this modular TT the bridge is remove for transportation and re-installed in a few minutes when set-up.
You have some interesting ideas and I have a few questions.
Did you create the angled wheels and if so do you have an tips on how you did it?This set of boggies was copied from a Diamond Scale set. I believe a few of the original Milhouse TT's had Diamond Scale boggies.
Would you explain a little more details how the turn block works, how it is attached to the bridge, It is not attached to the bridge. The bridge structure sets over the turn block. With this modular TT the bridge is remove for transportation and re-installed in a few minutes when set-up.
TT pit with the bridge removed. 
The bridge has been removed and installed 100's of times since it was built.
can this be done to a Bowser turntable, etc. No, It was never designed that way.
The drive shaft is welded to a metal bar then attached to a wood block that fits inside the two TT bridge rails. Bottom view during build. It is a very good close fit but allows for movement. There are no screws through the aluminum bridge rails to the turn block.
