Twin Whistle Whistlestop and Bachmann Plasticville: Diner Build-a-thon(s)

I really like this kit and it looks fairly easy to assemble.  However, one of the things that struck me was that the window proportions are too tall.  Originally, the diner would have had windows with a top sash or transom that had stained glass as shown in the attached photos. 

I thought it would be easy to use a permanent (orange or purple) magic marker on the back side of some clear plastic to simulate the stained glass.  That failed miserably.  So, I'm pondering somehow gluing colored tissue paper to the panes or hauling out my acrylic paint and trying that. 

I don't have time right now to experiment with whether the upper sash will be glued to the inside or outside of the model.  (Lots of these diners have outside window trim, which makes it look like the upper sash is on the outside.)  Unfortunately, the windows on the model were not cut to a consistent size -- some are wider than others, which may add to the challenge.

What the windows should look like. Note the stained glass and added trim:

So, instead of grappling with the windows, I switched to thinking about how I want to design the chrome back splash panel inside the diner ... a much more manageable project.

Tomlinson Run Railroad

But first before beginning any project, it's important to have the right tools.  And in this case, it was an inspiring Dream Diner mug and some caffeine.  As Chef Chuck Wagon demonstrates, the added benefit to having one's caffeine served via hot chocolate, is that once you clean off the extra powder from the packet, there's a nice dull silver grey lining on the inside.  Imagine the possibilities!

Now about that chrome backbar, I found some interior photos of the actual diner on the web and started to sketch plans for setting up a kitchen in the rear of the building. Previously, I had been collecting silver or chrome-like materials with the idea of trying some of them as car mirrors.  I had previously painted some mirrors with silver paint, which don't look so great. 

Brewer's Yeast cans have a quilted-pattern on their foil liner.  It reminds me of canteen trucks, which are a modern equivalent of the original wagon-based diners of the turn-of-the-last-century.  Had I owned an appropriate O scale truck body, I wanted to try and create a canteen truck out of these tops. 

But, now I'll be using a section of the quilted foil as the chrome back bar behind the stove.  I just ordered a "Viking" stove and a 50s-era refrigerator from youngatheartminiatures.com/shop/, along with some other accessories.  Unfortunately, I'll have to wait a couple of weeks to get them to learn their measurements.  Those will dictate how elaborate the back bar will be.  Meanwhile, I experimented with ideas to cover the windows shown on the right in the photo above. The backbar will cover them on the inside, but I want something visually interesting to cover the windows when seen from the outside.  Ideas so far include a boarded up left window, some dirty chrome for the middle window, and a clear window on the right which would look in on the interior and the back of the refrigerator (depending, of course, on its size).

Given the restaurant application, it was funny how many silver materials came from food items.  The foil example on the left, which Chef is standing in front of, is from a Brewer's Yeast can. The one in the middle is a nice dull grey that came from a Jiff Peanut Butter lid liner.  The smaller one on the right has a bit more shine to it (more obvious in the photo below).  It was the safety liner for grapefruit juice. 

Here you can get a better sense of the contrasting silver/chrome examples.  I may use the middle one to cover the windows in the diner end piece shown above.  The quilted section will cover the windows on the inside and I am planning on having a range hood that will follow the curve of the roof.  Stay tuned ... as I said, it will take a while for this project to unfold ...

Tomlinson Run Railroad

Ah, one final thing: The roof supplied with the kit is curved, which is fine.  But the corners on the ends have been beveled, which is incorrect.  Today I bought an X-Acto Medium Saw Blade. It's 4.5" long, 1" deep, 40-teeth to the inch, and .010" thick.  It seemed like a handy thing to have.  I'm wondering whether I can use it gently on the curved roof to get rid of the beveled ends without snapping the wood.  If this is abject foolishness, feel free to warn me!  Cutting off the ends will shorten the overhang but it should still be acceptable, if successful that is.  Thoughts? Ideas?

Tomlinson Run Railroad

Watching . . . watching . . .

I have no ideas; but I'm fascinated. 

Hi Max!  LOL.

Suggestions on the colored transoms....

Large crafts-oriented stores....Michaels, JoAnn's Etc., Hobby Lobby, etc....often have colored transparent gel film in squares about 10" or so, multiple colors.  Laminating/substituting a strip of this in the transom area might help.

Similarly, there are clear paints (Tamiya, Testors, et al make them) in a few transparent colors that can be applied to the inside of the transom film area.  I know for certain (work at LHS) that they make an 'amber' (orange?) in support of the automobile modelers.  An experiment mixing red/blue might also give you a suitable 'purple' for this application....perhaps.

Somewhat surprised that a marker pen of the appropriate color didn't work, though.  That would've been my first attempt, too.

Looking forward to your build!

KD

Colored cellophane would work well for the transoms.  

Who makes Chef Chuck Wagon?  He's not from Arttista, and he'd sure look good in front of my Plasticville diner.

Thanks!

Pennsylover

KD,

The transparent gel film sounds like a great idea.  The film might offer the kind of control needed to shape the curves.  I think there's a JoAnn's in the next town.  But today I have to work on school stuff. 

The art supply store where got the saw blade had various types of clear inks in the caligraphy section.  I was afraid they wouldn't spread on the plastic properly, but you are giving me an idea that might work for hinting at the lead in the stained glass.  If I can dig out my old drafting pen set that is ...

I should also note that the marker experiments were done with clear throw-away plastics like those found on placards for batteries, sushi container tops, and anything else encapsulated in clear plastic that I've bought and saved recently.  So it's not the highest grade but it's plastic that I've used successfully for windows on my N scale rolling stock.  The markers were Berol Prisma art colors and they were too faint.  I just tried a purple Sharpie with better success. It's a bit dark but does simulate the varigated colors in the real photos I included above.

Thanks for the ideas amd interest,

Tomlinson Run Railroad

Pennsylover, cellophane is an idea as well, although I wonder if it will add extra shean?  The windows will sandwich plastic, cellophane, and then plastic again. Next weekend, I'll be visiting my mother where I know I can get some red and green samples to try.

The chef figure is indeed an Arttista.  He's the chef/RR chef figure #1474.  I've noted elsewhere on the forum that I'd like to get extra chef figures and file the spatula down to a knife shape on one of them, and maybe try for a spoon on the other.  I'm sure Chef would enjoy putting in his usual long hours at your Plasticville Diner. 

Tomlinson Run Railroad

Today was devoted to school work.  I just sent a rather lengthy chapter introduction off to my dissertation supervisor.  Yeah! 

So, here are some odds and ends, which is all that I had time for.  Yesterday I applied Rust-oleum flat gray primer to some Model Power unpainted animals, No. 6171. The box contains 36 assorted O scale pieces at a bargain price.  The details are great and there's a wide variety of poses and sizes for most species.  These are animals that Chef Wagon will either use to produce milk and cheese or will be "guests" at his PRR dining car table or the new track side diner:

Today's bright sun showed up some little plastic nubs that I could have filed off a bit better but these are great animals.  On the right are the milk producers, on the left are the meat producers.  Don't be alarmed by the horse.  It will be set out to graze behind the completed diner, which in turn will give rise to rumors (unfounded) about Chef's mystery meat blue plate specials.  Once painted, the horse may sport a "sandwich" sign horse blanket advertising the diner.  Sort of a new twist on roaming advertising.  If not, I've found a security envelope pattern that will make a great all-around horse blanket.

Yesterday evening, it was fun looking a photographs of the different animals to plan my painting strategy for each figure.  Missing from this shot are the two sheep included in the assortment.  They have long tails and thus, Chef tells me, are wool producers, not food or milk producers.  The hand cart is a Bar Mills pewter casting. Filing off the flashing reminded me of my three college years as a jewelry major before switching to something even less practical.  I'm glad that I kept my mini-files and other tools; they certainly have come in handy on the Tomlinson Run Railroad.

Unfortunately, stores were closed today (Easter), so I couldn't get the Crazy Glue that the diner kit requires.  I did, however, check to see that my plastic cement purchased who-knows-when was still viable.  Luckily it is, but had it not been, I found a new trash can for behind Chef's diner:

Tomlinson Run Railroad

I'm very pleased with the Alvin self-healing cutting mat that I bought yesterday.  Here, I'm using it to try out the X-Acto saw that I also picked up.  After a few test cuts, I think the saw just may work after all to remove the beveled ends of the diner model roof (shown in a prior post).

As alluded to yesterday, I could write an entire post about food-related items like those jar and canister lids that can be used for modeling.  In the photo above alone are a popsicle stick, a drink stirrer, and some really great gelato spoons.   The latter may be maple or something. I cut off the bowl of one spoon (see pencil marks). After I file the edges of the bowl down to the pencil line, I will experiment with painting an egg on it or something catchy as a visual advertisement for the diner.  If successful, the curved shape will add a sculpted effect to either the side of the diner, the roof sign, or a roadside sign.  Heck, I've got enough of them for a sequence of Burma Shave signs leading up to the diner.

Today I also picked up an odd red plastic cross-shaped drink stirrer at Dunkin' Donuts.  It may be possible to adapt a short length of it into a "metal" corner upright to support a 90-degree angle "glass" sneeze guard.  I want to create a sneeze guard on a counter top to protect Chef's pies from the sniffling riff-raff.  That investigation will have to wait until I can see how much space will actually be available in the diner's interior.  And that depends on the kitchen accessories that are on order from California.  Although, I could just experiment for the fun of it ...

Tomlinson Run Railroad

OK, last post of the night, I promise.  I know that there have been some serious discussions about creating scale Venetian blinds and I followed with great interest MaxSouthOz's efforts at Port Elderly.  The following photo doesn't do it justice, but a certain telephone company has a great lined envelope interior.  While a bit too wide for scale, the lines look great as a suggestion for blinds or a general window treatment.  The lines are actually a nice strong black and look well positioned horizontally as well as vertically.  Heck, after buying all those craft and art supplies yesterday, free stuff is free stuff:

In thinking some more about how to create the stained glass, I found some more photographs that I had taken of Worcester Lunch Car Company diners.  The Mt. Pisgah Diner is in Winchester, NH; the Miss Bellows Falls is in Vermont.  Notice how both have a more angular style of stained glass than the pictures that I posted previously.  I suspect this style is chronologically later than the model's prototype but they look easier to create. Notice also the roof length on both buildings.  It confirms that cutting off the beveled roof ends won't sacrifice much overhang, assuming that the roof survives the "surgery":

Tomlinson Run Railroad

Propah modelling. 

It's late in the day and too dark for photos, but I got some green cellophane when I visited my mother recently.  Sadly, the red was gone.  And, even more sadly, I learned that Jo-Ann's fabrics is gone, so there's no nearby source for gel film.  So, today to move forward an inch, I bought Crazy Glue and a second heavy duty X-Acto knife. But there was no time to work on sash window experiments or spray paint the parts with primer. 

Regardless, I'm rather excited about the sushi roll that I grabbed for lunch.  It was undistinguished tasting and entirely forgettable, but the bottom half of the packaging is a terrific blue-purple transparent plastic.  It's just screaming "Hey you! Yeah, you with the soy sauce. Clean up this green horseradish and try me for simulating the stained glass!"  Due to the ridges, embossed lettering, and slanted corners, I'm not sure that there is enough plastic for all of the windows.  But if the color and thickness work for the stained glass window sections, getting more will be easily and enjoyably solved.

I'll say it again: there's something to be said for augmenting a diner with free food-related modelling supplies.  It's not intentional but there's just so much great wooden (birch) and plastic stuff at hand.  For example, I've been eyeing plastic utensils and Greek yogurt containers. Specifically, I've been analyzing the curves and ridges of their respective handles and bottoms for possible diner counter tops and matching footrests.  The end of the handle of a plastic knife would make a great scale sink if there's room for one.   And, some utensil handles have a texture that could pass for a classic diner "boomerang" pattern -- if you squint just so that is ... I call it "Squint-0-Vision".  Given the vagaries of having a carpet layout, Squint-O-Vision is the only way to go on my railroad.

Sadly, I've heard nary a peep from the mom and pop business in California where I ordered the 1/4" scale stove, refrigerator, coffee pots, and miniature cookware 'way back when. I'm bummin'.

Tomlinson Run Railroad

What a great post, TR.

A very good read.    I'm looking forward to your PhD paper.

BTW.  From my detective days, I have discerned that you are right handed and have shoulder length brownish hair.

How did I go? 

Thanks, Max.  Or should I say Sherlock?   Add some grey to that diner window reflection and, by George, you've got it!    

Wish I had time to actually experiment with these ideas but for now I'm just thinking/dreaming and trying to find time around weekend schoolwork.  There's a flaw in my thinking about using that plastic I found today for the stained glass.  It's likely fine as a solid color upper transom pane.  But if I want to suggest the outlines of the actual stained glass shown in my photos, then painting, ink, or fine cutting is still required to avoid adding unwanted thickness. Ah well ... That's were the thinner gel or cellophane would work better.

TRRR

I'm sure that you will work it out. 

MaxSouthOz posted:

I'm sure that you will work it out. 

Thanks for the encouragement, Max.  Upon awakening I've been kicking around ways of adding the colored plastic on the inside of the model so that the extra "sandwich" layer won't be so evident.  Of course, doing so still adds a third layer of plastic and the resulting refraction problems.  But some diner owners do add full storm windows to protect their antique stained glass.  This begs the question, so popular in my industry these days, "But, will it scale"?   However, for now the day job beckons.

TRRR

After whining about how my delivery of interior details was taking a while to arrive from California, after work yesterday my package from Debbie Young at www.youngatheartminiatures.com arrived.  It was well worth the wait!  I'm thrilled with the scale refrigerator, cook-grade stove, bakeware, dish set, incredibly small toaster, and two-pot industrial coffee machine.  As usual, my camera fails to do it (or anything else) justice.  Please checkout the seller's website for better photos.

Viking Stove and Frigidaire Refrigerator

(Hard to see -- bottom) Bakeware and one set of Fiesta china:

Out of the package this time -- but the photo's not much better!:

On the left is an out-of-focus two pot industrial coffee maker seen on a frontal view.  On the right is an out-of-focus 3-D printed sprue (?) with two clear coffee pots -- one for regular and one for decaf.  Help!  I have no idea how I'll get them off of the matrix without breaking those teeny tiny handles:

To save money, I bought the toaster kit instead of the pre-painted and assembled version.  It's a flea-sized toaster with a thin wire plug that you're supposed to somehow paint and then insert into a hole that's so tiny, I can't see it.  Of course, it might help visually if I took it out of the package :-).  The toaster is so small ("How small is it?") that there's no point in even trying to photograph it.  Whether or not I can "build" it is another story, but hey, I saved about $15 on the kit :-).

More out of focus madness:  Roxy the waitress posing with the two key appliances against the embossed foil that I'm going to use to create the chrome backspash for the stove.  Better pictures to come in the post that follows - I PROMISE!

Tomlinson Run Railroad

OK, so the miniature appliances arrived.  Because the seller didn't provide measurements, their arrival was key to moving on to the diner's interior design.  So, last evening, I got started. But, first, a distraction.  I'd been eyeing the thin lip on the bottom of yogurt containers, wondering whether they could be cut and used to suggest a wall-based counter top with a "lip". This kind of window-facing counter was prototypical in early diners used with a set of stools.  The lip or edge around the counter was pure fancy on my part.  It was approaching midnight and I was too lazy to measure 90-degree angles for the sides and finish the job, but you'll get the idea:

To complete the counter, I would have cut across the section with the green line above the writing as shown on the left.  However, after experimenting, I decided to ditch this idea.  The Whistlestop diner kit has a built in wooden shelf, the yogurt container plastic is weak when cut that thinly, and so on.  But it was worth the experiment.  Now, I can stop saving those stupid containers! :-)

Tomlinson Run Railroad

We also learn from things which don't work out, TR. 

Now we get down to business!  Of course it was now about 1:00 AM Friday (or should I say Saturday?)  when these photos were taken.  Here's Chef Chuck Wagon checking out the spacing in what will be his new kitchen built in one end of the diner, just like the prototype in Massachusetts. You can see some of the fine detail on the stove top in this view and the next.

The kit looks simple but the instructions aren't so great.  In one construction drawing, Whistlestop shows the diner sides extending beyond the diner ends.  So if it was a sandwich (yes, I really did write that), the diner sides would be the bread and the diner end with the appliances would be the filling. In another drawing, Whistlestop shows the short ends as the "bread" and the long sides as the filing.  Make sense?  What all this means is this:  The two appliances side-by-side fit best when the sides overlap the ends.  From the instructions, it isn't clear which the manufacturer intended because they show both (argh).  Constructing the wall joins in this manner (with the sides overlapping the ends) will shorten the diner by about one tenth of an inch.  However, because I plan on cutting off the rounded ends of the roof, as shown in a post above, it shouldn't really matter.  My roof line will be a little shorter, but so will the length of the building.

In this next photo, you can see a chip in the lower corner of the resin counter provided with the kit.  I also finally measured the windows last night.  It was a little worse than I feared.  Two, not just one, windows were oversized.  The measurements are seven windows are .57" wide, one is .6" wide, and one is ("Super-size me"), a whopping .725" wide.  Once I figure out how to create stained glass sash windows, we'll have to see how problematic these outsized windows are.  At least the left and right sides share this anomaly.  The second and third windows from the top are the .6" and .725" ones, respectively.  My plan is to place them at the back of the diner where the kitchen is.  That way having them covered up with blinds or something may make visual sense.

Speaking of windows, I also spent some time on the internet last night looking for photos of the backs of refrigerators.  I want the back to show through the window on the left.  In particular, I hope to have some condenser coils visible.  The centre and right windows will be covered by the chrome backbar.

In the photo below, notice also the detailing on the counter front.  It looks like it's trying to simulate tile.  In my next post, we'll see some absolutely awesome ORIGINAL Worcester Lunch Car tile work from the 1930s. 

I keep getting these foolish plastic cards in the mail for some promotion that I have zero interest in; however, I have been saving them.  I don't know whether they will be suitable for gluing and modelling, but here's one that I plan on cutting and adding to the side of the counter to give it a try.  This will 1. Hide the chip in the resin and 2. Provide space for Chef or Roxy the waitress to stand behind and serve up pies or wisecracks.  You can also see that I've added the door's full swing arc to the drawing.  In the prototype, the door opens inward and I don't want to have it banging into some customer trying to enjoy their morning coffee and newspaper:

Coming Up Next!  Real world research!

Tomlinson Run Railroad

MaxSouthOz posted:

We also learn from things which don't work out, TR. 

Max, you are so right!  And it's fun, too.  :-}

Thanks!

Tomlinson Run Railroad

"Real World Research?"   Excellent!   

As I wrote, it was now after 1:00 and I was frustrated because I still didn't know how many diner booths that I would be able to fit into the remainder of my floor plan.  I sketched out where the windows would be but I wasn't sure whether diners typically lined booths up with windows.  Plus, I have no idea what the booth measurements would be.  For this age diner, we're talking wooden booths that have back-to-back seats that are grouped around a table.  There was only one way to solve this problem!  Road trip!

Today it poured rain, so there was no way I could prime the wood and various resin parts.  Besides it made for a perfect excuse to go to a nearby Worcester Lunch Car diner from the same era as the Whistlestop model and do some real world research.  The heavy rain, I reasoned, pretty much ensured that I'd get a booth, too.

Here is the Airport Diner, Shirley, MA.  It is the same diner whose stained glass windows I posted photos of previously.  Sadly, they are gone.  The stainless steel siding isn't original; that siding would have been enamel:

One can't do true field research on an empty stomach, so ...

Now, that's what I'm talking about.  They didn't have any decaf, so painting my new appliances would be out of the question for today.  My hands would be too shaky after a bottomless cup for such fine detail!  In addition to my meal (a work in progress), notice that the table is actually beautiful striated pink marble!  It rather reminded me of bacon ... umm, bacon (the bacon was really good.):

\

Although I packed my tape measure to measure the table and benches, I left it in the car.  The waitress was very nice but seemed to have a cold.  I didn't feel quite right adding to the hassle of her day by having some rail-diner fan asking permission to measure the table, booth, and windows.  So, I took the width of the marble table in "notebook length" units.  Distracted by food, I forgot to measure the table's length.  No matter. I've decided to eye-ball measurements for my model because my head would probably explode if I tried to do math. 

I love this diner because it has its original "Greek Key" tile flooring.  I don't know if this pattern can be reproduced and successfully reduced or somehow "hinted at" to make a convincing tile floor in my diner model, but it's worth a try:

There are so many wonderful things going on in the photo above.  Notice the large tile on the side of the counter -- somewhat akin to the counter provided in the kit.  Next, there's the fabulous Greek Key tile border, and lastly, one of my favorite diner tile patterns.  I call it the "basket weave".  I will not be trying that.  The border and basic floor pattern shown here is used around the entire circumference of the diner's interior.  That should be easy to try, right?  Also, there is a runner down the middle of the aisle.  Next up is the original ice box (next to the TV), and some more marble:

The corner tile work on the floor and the diner and counter sides, and the runner:

Here are some ideas for things to put on the walls of my model and how to paint the miniature coffee maker that I bought:

I had been struggling with what colors to paint the inside and outside of the diner.  The prototype is currently red and white, which isn't era appropriate and is frankly kind of boring.  Going back to the "source" provided the perfect solutions.  My interior will be a light tan with pink? granite (if I can pull it off), and small touches of black and white for the window trim.  See below.

Past this fellow's head is one of the remaining stained glass windows.  Funny, this one is purple, but the ones that used to be on the outside windows were orange.  This color is close to the purple-bluish plastic sushi container that I've set aside to experiment with.

UPDATE: I must have conflated two different diners.  The windows have always been purple.

This outside shot shows the funky large lights on the ceiling.  Look closely at the upper-left corner. There are three of these lights in a line down the center:

Is that a bullet hole in the window?!?  I will not be modelling that!

Here are the windows with the storm windows removed. The storm windows were shown in my earlier post from years' ago.  It looks like an easier window project now without that added layer (taken through my windshield):

Lastly, here are some sketches -- I don't know whether they will make any sense to any of you or if they will be readable.  I tried to capture the profile of the carving in the double booths.  There's only a suggestion of an ogee (?) shape to their profile and feet, so I'll have to ponder if I will try and recreate that or do something really basic:

In a different color, could this envelope interior pass for the pink marble counter tops? Could it pass for (umm) bacon?

I hope that you enjoyed the prototype tour.  After today's visit, I've got lots of inspiration to work with.  Now, if only I can find the time!

Tomlinson Run Railroad

TRRR,

Having built two Whistle-Stop Diner kits, I am following your posts with great interest. Just one comment. The window construction on my two (much older) kits is very different from yours. On my kits, the window openings were not pre-cut, so I did not encounter a problem with unequal window sizes. Rather, the openings were constructed with individual window posts applied to the side sheets. I do have photos if you're interested. It would be possible to do your windows in the same way. Keep going...

MELGAR

MELGAR,

Thanks so much for your interest and ongoing support.  Your diner model post helped encourage me to move forward.  In fact, I've consulted the photo that you provided that shows the interior of your Moe's Diner several times.  I did notice that your windows were uniform and I saw the wood side posts.  But, I didn't realize that they had to be cut out in the earlier kits - although you did mention a certain amount of scratch building.

If you already have some photos on hand of your windows and their construction, I would welcome the posts.  But don't go to any extra trouble.  I suspect that, with enough thinking and experimenting, the solution to creating authentic-looking sash hung windows will come to me.  Some of it is "analysis paralysis" and some of it is that I really have schoolwork that I should do (!).  

My choices are to add the overlapping upper stained glass and lower clear window sashes to the inside (easy) or add them to the outside and add trim.  (The latter would look more prototypical and perhaps add depth to the windows, but it's harder for a first time modeler).

Trying to even out the window widths probably isn't worth the effort.  I'm just going to work with what I have on this model.  Windows often were changed and resized on prototypes.

One thing that puzzles me about the kit instructions is the placement of the floor.  The instructions describe how to decorate the floor and then say to not put it in yet.  But they never show how to put it in, nor say when to do so.  

It looks like the floor should be suspended about midway on the side walls, obviously just under the door frame.   However, it's not clear how the floor will be attached to the sides.  The bottom of the diner has a "skirt" of sorts on the outside that looks longer than the diner sides but it is structurally weak.  I probably just need to take all the interior pieces and line them up.  They look very different than what is in your model.  And, now that I have a better idea of the interior paint scheme and can move forward, it may be easier to figure out how the floor will be supported.  If it's via gluing it to the bottom edge of the interior wainscoting-like trim, that may be a problem because I don't intend to use the wall trim.

Perhaps I can scan the details sometime if this is unclear and too rambling ...

Thanks again!

Tomlinson Run Railroad

TRRR,

I'm very reluctant to disrupt your excellent thread with pictures of my model. Here are two photos of the walls and floor as I assembled them. Hope this helps.

MELGAR

MELGAR,

You are too kind :-).  Thank-you for the excellent photographs.  This kit has been totally redesigned!  Yours is reminiscent of actual 2x4 construction. The manufacturers have greatly simplified construction.

At this very moment, I'm laying out all the parts and can better see how the floor might work. But, it certainly looks like it will need to sit upon some little bits of scrap wood to ensure it stays in place.  I will try to photograph as I go along.

Thanks again for the very clear and informative photos.

Tomlinson Run Railroad

Tom do you still need gel. I have tons of it for lighting sets on TV, What color are you looking for. This is what the red gel looks like at the top of the brick building on the right. I can send you some in the morning.  No charge. Don

jrnyfilms@comcast.net    send me your address. 

Don,

How very good of you. I just sent you an email reply but that was before I saw that you had included this great photo in your post.  (It wasn't in the forum's automatic email and I somehow missed your reference; it was a long day.)

Wow!  What a fantastic scene you have created!  It's got a real mood and "real life" about it: The street and sidewalk slush and other details and the headlights in the distance make the scene.  And those red gel windows set in full length black frames with the curtains and backlighting are just perfect!  In fact, I think that I played at that bar back in my old band days  .  You have great imagination, great observation, and the skill to carry it through.

Thanks again; this is truly inspiring, Don.

Tomlinson Run Railroad

Nothing says "commitment" like primer!  (No, not even a wedding ring or vows, folks. Primer :-)  Yes, I took the plunge and started spray painting the basswood parts in the kit.  The wood was so nice to look at plain and untouched by my novice hands, but it wasn't getting the model built.  Because Don/Scale Rail is mailing me some gel samples, I wanted to have some design questions and issues resolved and out of the way so that I can focus on experimenting with the windows when the gels arrive.  So, I took the plunge.  It's kinda scary, commitment, is.

I had a little unexpected time that allowed me some time for thinking and a little doing. Unfortunately, I didn't prime all of the parts that I ultimately need to, but it was a good start. The walls, floor, and roof are at the top:

 After I primed the food animals shown in a prior post, I spent two hours with nail polish remover getting the paint off of myself.  Doh! This time, I used a wire coat hanger to hold aloft the parts with holes (windows) to be hung (swung) from while I spray painted.  I also wore plastic gloves.  My wire rig was kinda comical as there wasn't much control, but it worked.  In fact, having the parts swinging in the breeze off the end of the wire ensured that I got the light coat that I was aiming for.  Literally.  While drying, it looked like the edge of the long sides warped a bit at the thin tops where the windows are cut out -- and yes, I did flip them over to ensure even drying.  But upon further drying overnight per the instructions, they seem OK. 

Previously, I manged to file two of the four pewter stools before hand cramp set in.  The stools are at the right center in the photo above, and below them are two hand carts that also needed filing before priming.  Two sheep, the two roof vents, and the resin diner counter round out the photo.  I wasn't happy with the nubs of flashing that still remained on the stool tops and realized that my jeweler's files weren't going to cut it.  This encouraged me to pull out my Dremel tool and instructions to see what I had and to learn how to use it to save time with the two remaining stools.  To date, I've only used the Dremel tool for removing excess metal that prevented RR track sections from connecting properly.  It seemed like organizing my tools before I dive into this model will pay off in the future.  So, I did just that -- in a big way:

Fortunately, I have the right accessories to file and polish, and thus improve the look of the tops of the stools. They will have black seats, silver sides, and white bases like the stools in the diner I recently visited.  Next my files were a rusted mess from years in the basement, so they got the WD-40 and steel wool treatment (before photo):

They're still a rusty mess, but less so.  I find that for O scale modelling, I most often turn to my size 2 triangular files.  Because of their shape, triangular files are very strong and because they're tapered, they can fit almost anywhere.  They are also good for rounding off flashing on, say, Bar Mills handcart tires.  If you can imagine it, they maneuver well over round surfaces in ways that the other file shapes don't.  My next go-to file is a size 3 tapered flat file with a stiff spine on the back.  Like the triangular files, it's also great for cleaning up the slats on handcarts.  Gone are my college days of making truly awful silver jewelry but I'm glad I kept the tools.

From my Dremel tool and files, I moved on to reviewing the paints that I had on hand.  To see whether I was missing any important colors or finishes, I wrote down where in the spectrum the colors I had sat; whether they were tube acrylics or jars of latex; matte or gloss finish; and then I spent some quality time with a color wheel.  It looks like I have all that I need for painting this model -- thanks in part to a generous holiday present of artist paints from my company some years' ago.  A future step is to create paint swatches on Fudgcicle sticks to have on hand for planning future painting efforts, without having to haul the paints out.  I like making color samples on wood and have been doing it for years with stains (on tongue depressors :-).  And, in keeping with this project, Fudgcicle sticks are free, food-related, and seem to be in unlimited supply in my house .

Lastly, I have on hand some very fine sable brushes.  These will be needed for detailing the resin refrigerator, stove, coffee maker, dishes, and teeny tiny toaster.  I hope to paint some of these this weekend for a certain "team track" event.  However, I remembered that small brushes were rarely standardized across manufacturers.  One company's size "2" would be larger or smaller than another.  So, I laid my fine detail brushes out by thickness and bristle length.  Then I numbered them with a paper sticker from 1 (longest and thickest) to 7 (shortest and thinnest).  This way I won't have to root around in my paint box guessing which No. 2 is actually the right size for the job; I can just look at my sticker number and grab the right one.  

Before I actually do the fine detailing on the appliances, I tried using the different brushes on each detail that I will color, but without any paint.  I am glad that I did.  For example, the brush that looked best suited for a particular space on the bottom of the refrigerator actually split the bristles in a way that would have made a mess of the model had paint been on it.  So, using dry brushes, I figured out what numbered brush would work best for each feature and wrote it down for when I do the painting.   It seems compulsive but I think it will save future annoyment, disappointment, and reduce the risk of ruining these really nice accessories.

Tomlinson Run Railroad

Interlude ... while I was spray painting, Chef Chuck Wagon was off dreaming about provisioning his diner.  To that end, he ordered an American Heritage Charles Chips delivery truck. Some of you of "a certain age" from Pennsylvania or other parts of the U.S. East Coast may remember Charles Chips deliveries.  Yummy potato chips, pretzels, or cookies made in Lancaster, PA would be delivered to your door in these really nifty large tins:

As a kid, whenever my family would visit our great aunts near Harrisburg, PA, we'd look forward to the Charles Chips delivery.  And, the chips were even better than waiting for the delivery.  Apparently, Chef has some fond memories as well.  He's ready ("primed?") to unload a tin or two:

Uh-oh!  Someone should have warned Chef that when you "order a Charles Chips truck" you aren't actually ordering a truck load of Charles Chips.  Poor Chef is overcome with disappointment:

To revive Chef, the Tomlinson Run Railroad's art department will manufacture the appearance of a truckload of Charles Chips tins.  And since appearances are everything, hopefully, Chef will be satisfied (betcha can't each just one):

But seriously, I found a small (i.e., medium diameter) plastic drinking straw in my collection that is the perfect circumference for creating scale Charles Chips tins.  However, cutting the straw without crushing/splitting/splintering the ends may be problematic.  So for now, I will try and create a miniaturized mock-up of the back of the truck as it would appear when the door is open.  Unfortunately, one of the model's Phillips screws is impossible to remove, so I'll have to fit the cardboard mock-up in through the rear door.  Not ideal but it'll do.  When I get to it that is ...

Tomlinson Run Railroad

P.S. -- You can buy Charles Chips again but Amazon posters complained they don't taste the same.

Very entertaining reading for me this Sunday morning, TR. 

What a great thread this is becoming.  I like your systems approach to modeling. 

TRRR,

A suggestion for painting very fine details... I often use a Woodland Scenics foam nail or the point of a pin dipped into paint to color a very fine detail. I think it's more precise than a brush.

MELGAR 

MaxSouthOz posted:

Very entertaining reading for me this Sunday morning, TR. 

What a great thread this is becoming.  I like your systems approach to modeling. 

Thanks, Max. "Entertaining reading" is probably as close as I'll get to my old dream of being a Sunday morning newspaper cartoonist .

And, regarding "systems approach to modeling", is it that obvious that I work with computer programmers?  I do take that as a fine compliment.

I have more to post regarding the final selection of a "flooring", challenges of using the kit's inside and outside trim (or not), color schemes, and more.  However, I am behind with my school work and in the dog house, and therefore must get back to writing.  Speaking of which, I've been too busy to reply but have been following your winch posts at Port Elderly. Nicely done!

Tomlinson Run Railroad

MELGAR posted:

TRRR,

A suggestion for painting very fine details... I often use a Woodland Scenics foam nail or the point of a pin dipped into paint to color a very fine detail. I think it's more precise than a brush.

MELGAR 

MELGAR,

Thanks so much for mentioning the 2" nails or a pin point.  I sometimes use toothpicks (or a pin) for the same reasons of control and precision.  However, I was so focused on the new 0/3 and 0/5 brushes that I bought recently, that I forgot all about it.  Your technique may be exactly what's needed for the detailing on the gas stove burners.

Great suggestion!

Tomlinson Run Railroad

Thanks, TR.

I gleaned from an earlier post that you are a musician, as well.

I've just retired as the double bass player with the Cherry Pickers.

Ring any bells?