USE OF FROG SNOT WITH MTH ENGINES..tires better?

quote:

Originally posted by KevinH:
I'm still not clear on exactly how much of a "base" you need on the driving wheels, how to apply it prior to applying the "snot." I have tried the "snot" without anything under it, but traction is problematic. Also, in my experience, the "snot" does not last that long....2-3 months or so depending on the amount that its being run. It then seems to dry out and separate from the wheel in part..leaving little green strings attached to parts of the wheel.

If this is to be expected, then it might make more sense to just replace the tires, albeit with something to affix them to the wheel for some stability.

Also, does the wiring up of the engine (and tender if necessary) to run the engine to apply the "snot" pose any risks of short or electrical damage?


Any thoughts would be appreciated.

quote:

Originally posted by Sasquatch:
I have it on a half a dozen engines and it works fine for me. I also find it easy to install. I like it. BF

quote:

Originally posted by gg1man:
Dennis has the best alternitive to traction tires. Frog Snot out right stinks. It's costly and dries up like a rock once you open the jar.
Stay away from it.;

quote:

Originally posted by NCT:

quote:

Originally posted by gg1man:
Dennis has the best alternitive to traction tires. Frog Snot out right stinks. It's costly and dries up like a rock once you open the jar.
Stay away from it.;

Mine is still good a year after I first used it.

quote:

Originally posted by Dennis:
If you would prefer to try using silicone sealant, I can email you instructions and a photo of what to buy.
.....
Dennis

quote:

1) Make sure the groove where the old tire came from is CLEAN!!! I use lacquer thinner and let the cleaned groove dry fully.

2) Put on a thin layer of BullFrog Snot first and let it set for awhile (30 min to an hour).

3) Put in a second layer and let THAT sit for awhile.

4) Use a third layer as needed, and then let it sit OVERNIGHT at least. I think I have waited one or two days, prior to turning the locomotive right-side-up and test running it in the yard for some time.

quote:

Originally posted by gg1man:
Dennis has the best alternitive to traction tires. Frog Snot out right stinks. It's costly and dries up like a rock once you open the jar.
Stay away from it.;

quote:

Originally posted by Rdgnut:

quote:

Originally posted by gg1man:
Dennis has the best alternitive to traction tires. Frog Snot out right stinks. It's costly and dries up like a rock once you open the jar.
Stay away from it.;

Mario,

This is a very unique report. BULLFROG SNOT has a chemically spec'd shelf life of 5+ years. If it's 'like a rock', then it's likely been allowed to freeze. Instructions warn you about that.

Bill

quote:

Originally posted by Rdgnut:
Mario,

Well, it does not have a 'hardener', it just out-gasses. When frozen it looks like a lump of slimey silly putty because the polymers take a set, and that's all she wrote. I have some of my experimental batch maybe 6+ years old, still going strong.

In O the main complaint is that you can shred the SNOT when really pushed. But Garden folks have had good results too. See here.

Bill

I went in to hobby shop to buy Bullfrog Snot and was blown away by the $25 plus tax price for a small jar! That's way too expensive for traction tires, so like Dennis does, I will use the silicone.

Dennis...I would like you to email me the info on the sealant and instructions....also the directions for track cleaning car please...I did have them but cant seem to find them now

I'm sorry but my file on this is in my home PC so I will have to rewrite the instructions.  Give me a day or two as I am traveling and visiting friends right now and just checked the forum before going to bed.  I'll be on the road again tomorrow too.

.....

Dennis

I agree with gg1man

I worked with frog snot in the past using it on solid, no groove, drive wheels.

It goes on a few mils thick when appied properly. if applied too thick it will not dry properly.

To replace traction tires on O gauge trains, Dennis methood  of using silicone is the best alternate in my opinion

Let's face it, when it comes to traction a lot depends on your grades ( I have a 3.4% ruling grade)  and the lenght of trains you are attempting to drag up hill.

I've been expermenting with various types of products, including the snot.  Currently, I'm back to traction tires but I'm still looking for that "holy grail" of O-Gauge traction.

Bull Frog snot - I had good success with it at first, but after a few weeks engine traction actually got worse than with plain rubber tires.  Seemed to me the snot became imprenated with track oils/dirt.  At first, installing the snot wasn't as easy as shown in the video's because of the tire grooves.  I did come up with a fix for that.

I took a small piece of plastic sheet and filed one edge to match the profile of a drive wheel without the t-tire groove.  Simply apply the snot per the video and then immediately place the tool against the wheel while it's still turning to remove the excess. This will completely fill the groove quickly & easily leaving a perfect snot tire. 

I'm considering adding a small amount of fine sand to the snot to see if that aids traction.   I haven't tried that yet.  Not too sure running sand on the rails is a good idea.

I have tried regular silicone with disappointing results.  Works ok for a week and then it falls apart.  I alos tried a "sanded silicone" product found in the tile section at Lowe's.  It dried hard as a rock and made a for very rough ride.  It's heck to get back off too.

Currently, I'm applying a drop of black paint to the wheel groove and then reinstalling the traction tires. The paint seems to help the tires adhear to the wheels better and isn't as difficult to remove as CA glue.

For now, either double heading or doubling the hill appears to be the answer.

I'd like to try the silicone fix, but I'd like to first ask those that used it with good results, which brand works best?

Joe

I have been using "horse ties" for about a year with good results. These are small diameter elastic bands used to braid horse manes and are found in most equine stores. A huge bag is cheap. I use ( very sparingly) a small drop of CA to avoid slippage but I think this is overkill on my part. I have used them on MTH steamers and prewar as well as Marx engines. I have an unopened jar of the green stuff and thank heaven I thought twice about it..it just looked like a potential mess.

An example is here: http://www.horse.com/item/braiding-bands/SLT053916/

Hi Dennis...I would like you to email me the info on the sealant and instructions....also the directions for track cleaning car please... my e-mail is my profile, thank you in advance for the help!

hello guys and gals............

that bullfrog snot seems more trouble to mess with than to just replace the traction tires itself........... I will stick with traction tires less messy.

the woman who loves toy trains

Tiffany

"horse ties"...what a great idea! Thank you.

Well it is a LOT easier to use Bull Frog Snot on steam locomotive models than tailing the side rods off to re-instally the ****ed tire!

Sure glad I only use steel wheels

Gentlemen,

   Thank God for good old Lionel Magna-Traction engines, my 1959 Northern Pacific

still runs like a top, and pulls anything we put behind it!

PCRR/Dave

 The old girl pulling a 10 car Chrsitmas train, with matching Gold & Black GN Caboose.

All the steam engines I have, the traction tire is on the end drive wheels.

You remove the hex head machine screw on that wheel, the side rod drops down, you replace the tire and then replace the machine screw.  whole process takes less than five minutes per tire.