Using Lionel TMCC

Which track system (e.g., Gilbert, SHS, etc.) are you using on your layout?

 

Bob

Bob,

 

Last year I ran my BB and Challenger on my friends layout which has a mixture of SHS track and AM switches. The BB ran fine but the Challenger intermittently stopped dead but responded OK to starting again, any ideas?

 

When I got it home and ran it on a dedicated large 20x6 oval it was fine, weird!

 

Neil

my track system is gargraves and some original flyer. Yes, would run fine for a while then stop, start again. My Uboat does it alot. Clean the track and check connections, all good.

 

John

Try a factory "reset", as stated in the manual, on both engines. Many times this will cure the bucking/starting/stopping that is occurring. Otherwise, make sure the "common" command wire is connected on one rail only and that it's the "same polarity" rail, if you have it connected on another loop. Joe

thanks Joe...........will try reset. Interesting about the connection from the command to the rail. I'm sure the same polarity is there on both loop's but will make sure. I'm using the "base post" (grd) as my common connection. Both 30B transformers are synked together.  

 

John

In addition to the above tips, make sure the Challenger ODY, No ODY (Odyssey, No Odyssey) is in the ODY position. I was having problems with mine stopping for no apparent reason on curves, until I discovered that I had it on No ODY.

 

I have a first issue U-boat, and continue to have problems (see my earlier post and Carl T's response) because the wheels are not sprung. I'm using Gilbert sectional track, and any irregularity will cause it to stall, or stop momentarily, then go again. A slight unevenness in rail height from one section to the next, a slight dip in one rail, and a transition from level to incline, or vise versa, will cause it to stop; also dirty track or wheels. I've found that running it a little faster than I probably would otherwise is usually enough to carry it through the "bad" spots.

 

I run both loco's with a CAB 1.

Hi Bob,

 

I just pulled my Challenger out to have a look at the settings for ODY and it is set correctly in the ODY position.

 

So I can only assume that the track is the problem in this situation. Is this a timing issue  that can be resolved by Lionel in the future by extending any intermittent loss of power so that it keeps it in motion?

 

Neil

Neil,

 

Your primary recourse at this time is to improve the track work and keep it clean. The intermittent stalling occurs with AF Cruise 'on' or 'off'. Make sure that the rails are level at the joiners, that there are no hammer dents in the rail head of individual sections, etc. If you are in a position to do so, you might try some different transformers/power supplies in that Mike Reagan has brought up that variable for running the newest Flyer (post BB).

 

Your comment tends to suggest that a taller gear ratio would be helpful in the future. The Big Boy runs much more slowly than the Challenger does for a given speed step on Cab-2 giving the BB a finer speed setting range. As much as it is the less desirable model, the BB still appears to be the better operating and sounding of the two.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Bob

Bob,

 

Yes, it makes a lot of sense now. The layout of my friend was an exhibition layout of about eight modules and I have to say that some of his joints at several boards was not always perfect and casting my mind back to when it stalled it does align with the board joins.

 

It is possible that I will be in a position in the future do some corrective work on the layout and then see what happens.

 

For power I am using a Lionel 180W brick connected to a 240/110 step down transformer. I also use a Lionel quick blow fuse in one of those silver track side cabinet thingies.

 

Apart from this quirkiness I really like the engine and how it performs here at home.

 

Regards,

 

Neil

 

Hi Neil,

Just wondering what voltage every one sets there transformers at when running with TMCC or Legecy? I know the book states nothing over 19 volts or you can damage the circuits. I turn my 30b's up to a max of 14 volts. I wonder if I push it up close to the 19 volts if this will solve my problem??? More power to the rails?? I'm going to measure the track voltage while my loco runs around at different locations on my layout. Maybe I can catch a drop in voltage near my curves in the layout.

 

John   

Hi John,

 

For most of the time I use the Lionel 180W bricks which puts out a continuous voltage and I can't remember what it is now, possibly 18V?

 

There have been a few occasions when I have used a 30B (early version) or 18B-EX models and they seem to work fine when on the max voltage which I believe is about 16-17 volts. I can't see why you can't set your 30B to 14 volts as the motors are possibly 12V and the smoke unit operates at a lower voltage, so doesn't need to be high. I'm sure Bob can fill in where I am wrong. I don't think turning the voltage up will help as Bob is indicating that the problem lies within the track and I can now see that this is the correct diagnosis. I remember now when the engine stopped in roughly the same places and one that sicks out well was where there was a switch within 2-3 inches from a join of two boards and there were two other specific places it did the same. Perhaps you need to make a note of where it does it and carefully examine the track as Bob says for any irregularities .

 

Regards,

 

Neil

Hi Bob,

I thank you also for your responce. Great information on what to look for. My layout was built 14 years ago and have made some changes to it. The top of the rail looks fine. No hammer dents or bad rail pins between sections. All track is secure mounted on cork road bed. I do have a newer 30b and will try it. I also plan on suring up all my connections to each track circuit to eliminate any issues with the track. Depending on my run times mostly heavy running during the fall and winter months, I will send a track cleaning car around the layout a few times. Other than that, I service the engines according to the service manuals. I'll keep you all posted. 

 

John    

Some of your problems could be TMCC signal issues.

I couple the TMCC signal to both rails with .1uf capacitors.

If the locos runs better in one direction than the other then you have a signal issue for sure.

 

You will find that the newer locos may run better and will smoke better if run closer to 18 volts.

Since most smoke elements are 6-8 ohms and use a chopped regulated AC that measures 5-6.5 volts RMS a small increase in the track voltage makes the smoke regulator put out a few tenths of a volt more and that is all it takes to make more smoke. 

I was told that they like the "chopped AC" of modern transformers better than old pure sine wave transformer because the peak voltages are higher.

Carl

Carl,

 

Is this 2 electrolytic caps in parralel with one end sharing the common signal and the other 2 ends going to respective rails? What voltage do you suggest using.

 

Neil

Neil,

 

They are small ceramic disk caps.

See instructions at: http://www.tuveson.com/TMCCSig...l__distributioni.htm 

 

It calls for .15 uf there but .1uf work just fine.

 

Carl