using steel and welds...

Rick      I saw a 60 foot box car recently, in 17/64 scale in all steel I was a little tempted to bid. It does say it is welded together.    Stephen      (ctr.....Choose the Right) & ( There's power in Service) 

Thanks for the input, lads.

Stephen, I appreciate the links; but, I couldn't access them. Thanks!

Pretty cool if they welded the car.

Nowadays, with the aid of Computer Numerical Control(CNC) equipment, milling precision parts, out of steel, must be doable.

The precision welding would probably be the hard part; but, there must be a few souls, wandering this planet, that have those skills... to get the job done. Maybe, one of those nuclear rated guys, would be up to the task?

That would be one special piece, welded steel and all...

Those bike fabricators seemed quite capable, too; maybe...

Rick

Steam engines had almost no welding until late when there were some welded tenders. To be be true to prototype methods, rivets and castings were the means of construction.  Rapid prototyping could make parts possible but casting them would be a trick.  Modern steam engines used cast engine beds which also included the steam chests and even the air reservoir.  That would make an interesting casting come to think of it, but in brass if I were doing it.  

I'm more of a diesel and electric guy; but, there is some steam that catches my eye.

Rivets add that cool industrial look; maybe, for those types of machines, do what they did back in the day... rivet some iron/steel. Could it get any better than that, an O scale riveted iron/steel model. The old electrics would look great, too!

Rick

Oh, all right!  My very first scratch- built locomotive used a steel boiler - a piece of brand- new 2 1/8" steel exhaust pipe.  Again, I will not be doing that again anytime soon.  Next post - 1984 completion.  I still shoot corrosion inhibiter inside whenever I have it apart, which is not often.  It has always run like a Swiss watch.

Bob the 2nd,

Is that a picture of the Swiss working piece you made, out of an exhaust pipe?

Rick

Real Steel, real Iron... rivets, welds... the hard stuff, the challenging stuff; not soft, pliable putty metal...

The ultimate medium. Legitimate locomotive material.

Rick

My drivers are all cast iron, with very few exceptions.  Axles are steel, as are crankpins, screws, some motor parts, and the worm.  Everything else is brass - makes much better models, I promise.  As you can tell, I have tried other metals.

All opinion.  You will need TIG to get good welds on .025 steel.  Gonna make your wife unhappy, and drive your electric bill nuts. Good luck, and let us see the results.

Bob2,

Very nice work.  It is nice to see stuff like this on the forum.  Thanks for sharing.

Dave

Exceptional work, Bob.

Dave probably has a way with the hard metals.

BTW, throw in some small electric(traction) motors, one per axle, for a non steam build; and you've got something special.

Rick

Bob, no need to wish me luck, because I'm not considering taking on something like that. I'm just asking if anybody has, already, done a welded steel, or riveted iron  build?

An O scale replica...

Rick

Henry Pearce's wheel centers were going to be cast iron but using the lost wax method instead of sand cast.  This would permit finer detail and finish.  To my knowledge no one has ever done this.  Would it have been worth it, probably to Henry because it would save making tires for the non-insulated wheels when you are making wheels by the gross.

The Scottish lad, Davie Mac, and his pals, have a nice metal works; maybe, they have built one? Probably, not in O scale, though.

Rick

Besides, using the prototype materials I mentioned, I assume welded steel or riveted iron would be significantly stronger and sturdier than the softer metals, such as brass.

I also like the fact that rust comes into play, under the right conditions; that could be used to ones advantage. The prototype materials and how they react... probably, would make for a more realistic model. A more difficult build, but, probably, with superior results.

Rick

I completely forgot about these.  All Nation and Athearn box cars are steel.  I still se no advantage - there are a few brass versions, and they bring a premium.

It all depends on your modeling goals, Bob. My preference would be to close in on capturing the real thing; including, using as many prototype component materials as possible, i.e. steel...

I don't see how anything would/could be better; you've essentially made a smaller version of the original(not counting the power equipment).

Picture that - a glistening all-steel diesel-electric locomotive model: welded, ground, buffed out; waiting for it's primer coat...

To me, nothing could/would beat that; unless, somehow, you could replicate the power/drive system, too!

Rick

Bob, Bob, Bob...

And you thought I was being over ambitious machining a cast iron pacific frame...

Anyone who wants to try building a locomotive frame from steel... Go for it. Don't let these grumps who preach traditionalism keep you down.

Just take the time to send the pictures of your progress.

M.,

First, let me compliment you on the boxes; you've got the touch. Actually, you're one of the guys I envision being able to pull off... the build I'm talking about, here.

A consortium of the able might be the way to go... banging out a steel/or iron rig.

Nice yakking with ya again, lad; I still see your words, at the other joint.

Cheers,

Rick

.064 sounds like a sixteenth of an inch thick.  How in the purgatory do you cut windows in that? ( just checking to see what level of ****ation gets by the automatic sensor.  The lowest level does not make it.)

Martin - if you had a sheet of shiny .032 steel and good acid flux, and a sheet of .032 half-hard brass, and were going to make another box cab, which would you choose?

But, would that choice earn as much personal satisfaction, in the end?

Rick

Only you can answer that for yourself.  I am much happier with brass bodies and frames.

Givn that I am currently working on a B+B-B+B P&N freight motor - Neither!

I'm back to building wooden models for the foreseeable future!!!   

But, I will also confess that I have a set of Ed R's molds on the other end of my bench and have been busy casting up a 5 sets of parts to assemble a steam engine,

And, on my other table, there's that set of Alexander aluminum castings for an 1880's style coach that I'm working on putting an interior.

The real question is whether sleep deprivation facilitates the execution of such projects or merely causes one to be willing to pursue such projects, 

Regardless, there is good fun to be had in these projects, at least for me, that beats opening a box, putting a car on the track, etc.

Aye, so you're going to whittle one are ya... would that be "hardwood" then, M.?

Rick

Aye, it would be that indeed.  Got some lovely black locust and I'll get my primary wood working tool fired up and be into it soon,

Robinia pseudoacacia ya say - extremely  hard, resistant to rot and durable; supposedly, makes good firewood, too. Might want to rethink smelted ore; the Stihl might have met it's match. Keeping a good edge on your tools, will take some doing...

BTW, do you have your own forge, or access to one? You mentioned castings...

Some convenient Celtic stout, will help you on your way.

Cheers,

Rick

Not gonna answer me?  I still haven't put that tank end in the mail.

I cut windows with the skinny Dremel cutoff wheel and a huge safety visor.  Brass is easy to cut that way.

Bob, I'm sorry that guy you were trying to get an answer out of hasn't answered you yet.

I have a complete scratch built passenger car set for the Lakeshore 400, made from... you guessed it, .064 tinplate. If I recall correctly, the jeweler that built the cars made the windows with a scratchbuilt punch press. I've also seen dremel now makes a drill press mounting for their tool, and i've also seen some little hobbyist XY tables. I'm sure someone can easily make a manual milling machine. 

The cars are pretty rough, but considering the build dates go back to at least 1942 or so... its a pretty decent scratch build. I've been in the process of getting them on modern sprung trucks and superdetailing them. Pay attention to the "Whats on your workbench" thread. I'll get some pics posted there shortly. 

Martin is the guy.  I am just giving him a hard time.  I have an end mill, and do a small amount of live steam in 1" scale and 1.6" scale.  Cutting even mild steel - even Leadloy - is about twice to three times as difficult as cutting good free- cutting brass.  Live steamers are typically steel, but I bit the bullet and got enough .032 brass to build a 90C tender for my Pacific.  Even in that scale I prefer brass.  I will use aluminum before I will rivet steel.  Even driving brass rivets can be tedious - a tender takes thousands!

Borrowing from the Flintstones technology, that rogue woodpecker of yours could be put to good use, milling your locus. Bonus - woodpecker starts feeling good about himself, and stops vandalizing your window frames.

I'm going to change the channel for a minute -

This thread is about doing something special, going the extra mile, setting a new benchmark;and, attempting to get a wee bit closer, to that illusive thing... perfection.

To me, having that kind of innate, genuine commitment to something; pride in ones work; trying ones best, just because it genuinely matters to you, is a good thing.

Story time -  non fiction this evening:

There's a new house being built next door to me. I've met the owner/builder and was given a tour. The house is nearing completion, and one of the final exterior features, the stone work(using real, expensive, stone panels), was being applied... over the past few days. I liked what the builder had done up to this point, and was watching, with interest, to see how the stone work turned out. Yesterday, I complimented one of the young guys(I'm guessing he's in his early twenties) that was diligently applying the stone segments, to an exterior wall. The guy took a brake from his work, for a few minutes, to talk to me; and, seemed to appreciate my sincere comments.

The added expense seemed to be paying off for the owner; until, today, actually, this morning. The young guys didn't return this morning; instead, their boss came. When I came home later on in the day, I checked to see what had been done. I was quite surprised to see how the boss finished off one of the exterior walls; it was obviously poorly done.

I talked to the owner, later on in the day; and he also noticed areas of poor/sloppy workmanship. He hadn't seen the shoddy work I noticed, earlier, yet.

The owner looked dejected, and will have to deal with this problem tomorrow. Up until this point, his new build had been coming along quite nicely; and he appeared to be quite proud of this project.

Apparently, the owner was told, by the young guys boss, that he(the boss) felt they were fooling around... wasting too much time. Actually, I've observed the young guys working; and, they worked hard and skillfully. The owner and I, feel the boss took shortcuts; rushed his work; and, ruined what had been a good job.

Sometimes, some in this hobby get the gears for being too picky(rivet counters). Sure, you can take things to detrimental extremes. I'd rather be the guy who cares...

Rick