Thanks Martin and Pete!
I need to check around for the materials to decide what I want to use. Heck, I may have a piece in my shed and don't know it!
I haven't checked PVC pipe yet, a 2" piece may weigh more than the equivalent piece in brass.
Pete, I think I'll use the Archer rivet decals. I don't mind spending the $$$ on them or the brass tubing as this should be such a small project.
Well, I checked a couple of local hardware stores and plumbing supply companies today and NOTHING!
Looks like I either need to order online or go to the nearest strip joint to see if they have any used stripper poles
Some of the online dealers reference "stripper poles" in their write-ups on 2" brass tubing (polished of course).
Here's one place that has it for cheap and free shipping:
CROWN INDUSTRIES
Looks like I either need to order online or go to the nearest strip joint to see if they have any used stripper poles
Some of the online dealers reference "stripper poles" in their write-ups on 2" brass tubing (polished of course).Here's one place that has it for cheap and free shipping:
CROWN INDUSTRIES
quote:Originally posted by Bob Delbridge:
Well, I checked a couple of local hardware stores and plumbing supply companies today and NOTHING!
Ok, I just checked in my shop back behind the bandsaw where I stash stuff like this.
Got a good length of 2 1/4" OD brass and a section of plumbing plastic that 1 15/16" O.D. That latter stuff is print labeled 1 1/2" on the outside, but that's really the I.D. with some clearance to spare. This stuff might be your best bet since you can wrap it and work it up to 2"
quote:Looks like I either need to order online or go to the nearest strip joint to see if they have any used stripper poles
Polished? With what? SPEW!!!!
Martin,
I still need to check what sizes of pvc pipe I have, but I think I have some that's the same size as what you talked about.
For now, I'll play it safe and stay away from those "polished stripper poles"
I still need to check what sizes of pvc pipe I have, but I think I have some that's the same size as what you talked about.
For now, I'll play it safe and stay away from those "polished stripper poles"
freeze plug
http://shop.advanceautoparts.c...3&utm_content=value4
wrap it with brass sheet and voila.
AG.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.c...3&utm_content=value4
wrap it with brass sheet and voila.
AG.
I started an aux tender project years ago. Spent alot of time on it. And a few bucks. But when it came time to do the rivets I just couldn't see me sitting for hours and hours and hours starring through a mag glass picking and placing thousands of rivets. And evenly spaced in straight lines.
Started by making a small master cylinder about 2 inches long and two inches diameter by wrapping thin sheets of styrene in layers around a glass jar that was less than 2" diameter. Forget how thick it was but ended up about 2.3" diameter.
The main idea was to make a few different B&O tenders and aux tenders of different lengths.
Then made a rubber mold of the cylinder and cast the cylinders in resin. This way I could glue sections together to make a long tank. One of the times I whish I still had the big lathe.
The end cap I was able to shape on my small lathe. Which was also molded.
In the end I gave up, snagged a couple brass tenders off the Bay.
That was the hard way. If you could find something just less than the diameter you need. A bottle, spray can or tubing of some sort that you could wrap and glue sheet styrene together forming a tube for your tank.
Click on thumbnails.
Joe
Started by making a small master cylinder about 2 inches long and two inches diameter by wrapping thin sheets of styrene in layers around a glass jar that was less than 2" diameter. Forget how thick it was but ended up about 2.3" diameter.
The main idea was to make a few different B&O tenders and aux tenders of different lengths.
Then made a rubber mold of the cylinder and cast the cylinders in resin. This way I could glue sections together to make a long tank. One of the times I whish I still had the big lathe.
The end cap I was able to shape on my small lathe. Which was also molded.
In the end I gave up, snagged a couple brass tenders off the Bay.
That was the hard way. If you could find something just less than the diameter you need. A bottle, spray can or tubing of some sort that you could wrap and glue sheet styrene together forming a tube for your tank.
Click on thumbnails.
Joe
Thanks guys!
Joe, I have a Harbor Freight mini-lathe that used to be 7x10 but I got the parts to make it a 7x14. This Seaboard tender tank is approx 9" long, so if I have to I can turn the tube in the lathe.
How wide did you make the curved piece that is part of the frame (photo 2)? I can see the same thing on the Seaboard tender.
Joe, I have a Harbor Freight mini-lathe that used to be 7x10 but I got the parts to make it a 7x14. This Seaboard tender tank is approx 9" long, so if I have to I can turn the tube in the lathe.
How wide did you make the curved piece that is part of the frame (photo 2)? I can see the same thing on the Seaboard tender.
I found a piece of 2" Schedule 40 PVC pipe in my shed. The OD is 2-3/8", ID is 2".
That's a bit large on the OD, but I can cut it down a bit on my lathe. The drawing I have shows the ID of the tank as being 8'-4-1/4". That would be 2-3/32" in O scale. I don't know the thickness of the tank but I bet it's close to 1/2" thick. If so, the OD in O scale would be 2-1/8". If I cut the OD down to 2-1/4" that will be close to the tank size and still stiff enough that I won't have any trouble cutting it in my lathe. I should be able to find a freeze plug that will fit the ID.
I also found my HO Vandy tender. I wish I could remember who made the engine, it was a 4-8-2 Mountain. The original had the drive in the tender, but when I turned it into a Vanderbilt I moved the mechanism to the engine (don't ask how, I don't remember!).
I can use the HO model to get an idea of what the front of the tender should look like, it's always nice to have something to go by even if it's on a smaller scale.
I would brave the cold and go cut the PVC down, but I'm wussing out, it's still under 30 degrees down here and I haven't turned the heater on in the garage
That's a bit large on the OD, but I can cut it down a bit on my lathe. The drawing I have shows the ID of the tank as being 8'-4-1/4". That would be 2-3/32" in O scale. I don't know the thickness of the tank but I bet it's close to 1/2" thick. If so, the OD in O scale would be 2-1/8". If I cut the OD down to 2-1/4" that will be close to the tank size and still stiff enough that I won't have any trouble cutting it in my lathe. I should be able to find a freeze plug that will fit the ID.
I also found my HO Vandy tender. I wish I could remember who made the engine, it was a 4-8-2 Mountain. The original had the drive in the tender, but when I turned it into a Vanderbilt I moved the mechanism to the engine (don't ask how, I don't remember!).
I can use the HO model to get an idea of what the front of the tender should look like, it's always nice to have something to go by even if it's on a smaller scale.
I would brave the cold and go cut the PVC down, but I'm wussing out, it's still under 30 degrees down here and I haven't turned the heater on in the garage
quote:Originally posted by Bob Delbridge:
Thanks guys!
Joe, I have a Harbor Freight mini-lathe that used to be 7x10 but I got the parts to make it a 7x14. This Seaboard tender tank is approx 9" long, so if I have to I can turn the tube in the lathe.
How wide did you make the curved piece that is part of the frame (photo 2)? I can see the same thing on the Seaboard tender.
Bob, I have the 3rd Rail Q4 tender sitting here. It should be pretty close to what you want to build. The OD of the tank in 2.17". Tender is 8.25" long.
The curved piece of the frame is 1.45" wide. But flattened out is closer to 1.5"
Formed mine by taping (blue masking tape)a piece of styrene to a PVC tube and dunking it in boiling hot water, less than a minute, and then into cold water to set it. Draw a center line on the styrene first, needed for any trimming and alignment.
The center depth of the end cap is about .27". Width of the coal box is 2.629".
I had one of those Made in Chinna Harbor Freight lathe/mills. So much play in the spindel it was useless for scale models.
Joe
Thanks Joe!
Your measurements sound like what I have.
I had to redraw my design to accommodate the larger diameter of the PVC, but in the process I added a few more details to the drawing. I just stopped drawing a minute ago (taking a break) and will get back to it later.
The one thing I didn't like about the HF lathe was that it's in metric, but I bought a digital micrometer so I can do it right. Actually metric isn't so hard, just forget about the other system and you're good to go (like a second language)
Your measurements sound like what I have.
I had to redraw my design to accommodate the larger diameter of the PVC, but in the process I added a few more details to the drawing. I just stopped drawing a minute ago (taking a break) and will get back to it later.
The one thing I didn't like about the HF lathe was that it's in metric, but I bought a digital micrometer so I can do it right. Actually metric isn't so hard, just forget about the other system and you're good to go (like a second language)
Since I am of fan of the C&O Mikados with all the gingerbread, i.e.
flying pumps, brow-mounted Elescos, and coal-fired Vanderbilts,
this has been interesting. Would like to re-tender all my locos
with coal-fired VBs as a distinction for my road. K-Line once offered square, (non VB) tenders for separate sale, but they are gone and never produced a VB, as hoped. I have an old Laughlin kit, unbuilt, but have never gotten around to buidling it and converting it to coal..and it was only one of several needed.
Lionel or MTH advertised a C&O Pacific with a Vanderbilt, but I
have never seen one. Would like to know if that was produced...
Unlikely either would have made tender for separate sale..or I'd
grab some...understand electronics fad may prevent VB's for
3 rail....unless Bachmann/Williams would dare venture out of the
mainstream.. I kitbashed a metal Marx tank car into one generic VB
tender but was underwhelmed with the results, although it now
runs behind a Marx Mikado (yup, flying pumps and Elesco)kitbashed from a #1829. This discussiongives me the idea to take a closer look at other available plastic junkbox tank cars from which to correct marketing omissions.
flying pumps, brow-mounted Elescos, and coal-fired Vanderbilts,
this has been interesting. Would like to re-tender all my locos
with coal-fired VBs as a distinction for my road. K-Line once offered square, (non VB) tenders for separate sale, but they are gone and never produced a VB, as hoped. I have an old Laughlin kit, unbuilt, but have never gotten around to buidling it and converting it to coal..and it was only one of several needed.
Lionel or MTH advertised a C&O Pacific with a Vanderbilt, but I
have never seen one. Would like to know if that was produced...
Unlikely either would have made tender for separate sale..or I'd
grab some...understand electronics fad may prevent VB's for
3 rail....unless Bachmann/Williams would dare venture out of the
mainstream.. I kitbashed a metal Marx tank car into one generic VB
tender but was underwhelmed with the results, although it now
runs behind a Marx Mikado (yup, flying pumps and Elesco)kitbashed from a #1829. This discussiongives me the idea to take a closer look at other available plastic junkbox tank cars from which to correct marketing omissions.
coloradohirailer.
I hope I can complete this project and share what I've learned and done. I have a drawing of sorts (not fully detailed) and plan on taking photos as I go along.
Here's a photo I took of my HO scale Vanderbilt tender, I think the company that made it was Mehano. I enlarged it to get a good idea of what detail is there:
Anyone know what's behind the doors on the sides of the front? I guess the 2 middle doors are for access to the coal bunker.
I did run across a photo that showed a large hose in the space behind one door, but not sure what it was for. Seems like the doors/accesses would be a good place for tools and supplies.
More later!
I hope I can complete this project and share what I've learned and done. I have a drawing of sorts (not fully detailed) and plan on taking photos as I go along.
Here's a photo I took of my HO scale Vanderbilt tender, I think the company that made it was Mehano. I enlarged it to get a good idea of what detail is there:
Anyone know what's behind the doors on the sides of the front? I guess the 2 middle doors are for access to the coal bunker.
I did run across a photo that showed a large hose in the space behind one door, but not sure what it was for. Seems like the doors/accesses would be a good place for tools and supplies.
More later!
A Chamber pot perhaps and a roll of TP?
quote:Anyone know what's behind the doors on the sides of the front?
There's a lady behind one and tiger behind the other - choose wisely!
You're both wrong! It's where they kept their lunch
I'm trying to decide what type of water tank hatch to put on this thing.
I ran across a round hatch, but it's in On30 scale:
HATCH
I'm really ignorant when it comes to these "unusual" scales. Is this hatch O size or something smaller?
I'm trying to decide what type of water tank hatch to put on this thing.
I ran across a round hatch, but it's in On30 scale:
HATCH
I'm really ignorant when it comes to these "unusual" scales. Is this hatch O size or something smaller?
quote:Originally posted by Bob Delbridge:
You're both wrong! It's where they kept their lunch
I'm trying to decide what type of water tank hatch to put on this thing.
I ran across a round hatch, but it's in On30 scale:
HATCH
I'm really ignorant when it comes to these "unusual" scales. Is this hatch O size or something smaller?
Water covers (hatches) on Vanderbilt tenders are usually rectangular with rounded off ends and ran crosswise on top of the tank. They looked very much like the water hatches on rectangular tenders.
The reason for this is because of variation in the positioning of water spouts when filling a tank. A round hatch would require much more precise spotting and adjustments of the water spouts, thereby taking more time than necessary to take on water, which was one of the necessary 'evils' of steam railroading. Time spent taking on fuel oil or coal was yet another.
As for that round On3 hatch, it's still full O scale. At a 17" scale diameter it's a bit small for your Vanderbilt as a water hatch. Would do nicely for a fuel oil hatch though and a water hatch too, as shown on that little tank engine. A water cover opening for tenders was generally about 20" wide or so and about 4' long. On a Vanderbilt tender the top of the water cover would be at or just above the wood plank walkway on top of the tank.
As for the doors on the front end of a Vanderbilt tender:: Yes, the middle doors are for access to the the coal bunker. Same as with a rectangular tender. Even if stoker equipped, those doors would still be there. Stokers can break down and there is always a shovel or two on board.
The doors off to the sides are for tools, extra air hoses, coupler knuckles, j0ournal brasses, packing and journal oil. Tenders can get hot boxes too! Red and clear lanterns were also kept in these compartments.
The hose you saw in that photo was connected to the water tank. It was used to wash the cab floor and tender apron and remove accumlations of cinders, which can become quite slippery underfoot. Brooms were also used to sweep them out. However the hose was easier to use when underway. It could also serve to extinguish fire from stray live coals or clothing caught by a back-draft flare when the firing door was opened.
As for a 'toilet' on a steam loco, in times of such need one could take a quick whizz from the tender gangway when the area was conducive for such. For greater need, there was the coal pile, accessed through those center doors. I guess in working oil burners, one just had to tough it out to the end of the run. . .
Ever onward!
Ed Bommer
Ed, thanks a bunch! I've seen the rectangular ones with small corner radii so that's what I'll use.
I went to the PSC site to order the steam engine catalog but it says they're out of stock. There's a number of parts I need to get, I hope they restock soon.
I went to the PSC site to order the steam engine catalog but it says they're out of stock. There's a number of parts I need to get, I hope they restock soon.
I was also looking at the Archer rivet decals.
It looks like my best bet would be to use P/N AR88063 (7/8" rivets). This set has double row, single row, and staggered row rivets, all of which appear on the tender.
It looks like my best bet would be to use P/N AR88063 (7/8" rivets). This set has double row, single row, and staggered row rivets, all of which appear on the tender.
quote:I went to the PSC site to order the steam engine catalog but it says they're out of stock. There's a number of parts I need to get, I hope they restock soon.
Worth a call to see if they have any about or when they will get new stock (edition?).
Here's a couple of in-progress photos.
I went with sheet styrene for the coal bunker and PVC pipe for the water tank. I plan on making the underframe out of brass and feel the weight of the PVC and styrene may be more than what brass may have been (just a SWAG on my part).
I started off with making the coal bunker, really nothing more than a box with some odd-shaped sides. I used MEK to glue the joints:
Next was turning the PVC pipe. I needed to remove 1/8" from the 2-3/8" diameter, making it 2-1/4" diameter. I made a 2" PVC plug (from a piece of round stock I had left over from a previous build) so I could support the free end of the pipe in my mini-lathe.
Once I got the outside cut down I started making the cuts for the coal bunker. I had a couple of firm starting points (back and bottom sheets of bunker) so I scribed lines for the cuts and eyeballed the sloped cut, leaving more material in place in case I mis-calculated:
I've got both pieces close to the correct fit, but I need to do the final fits to make it right. I'll probably have to fill in a few spots with plastic epoxy.
Here's what it looks like temporarily together:
I'm going to remove the plug, glue some sheet styrene to it, and turn it in the mini-lathe to the convex shape of the rear of the water tank. I plan on making it a press fit so I can install a PS2 or PS3 electronics package at a later date. I need to make the rear end it keyed so I can remove it and place it back in the correct position.
I meant to call PSC today, but got working on this and forgot
, also need to order the Archer rivets. It shouldn't be a problem putting them on with it built-up.
Next big task is making the underframe!
I went with sheet styrene for the coal bunker and PVC pipe for the water tank. I plan on making the underframe out of brass and feel the weight of the PVC and styrene may be more than what brass may have been (just a SWAG on my part).
I started off with making the coal bunker, really nothing more than a box with some odd-shaped sides. I used MEK to glue the joints:
Next was turning the PVC pipe. I needed to remove 1/8" from the 2-3/8" diameter, making it 2-1/4" diameter. I made a 2" PVC plug (from a piece of round stock I had left over from a previous build) so I could support the free end of the pipe in my mini-lathe.
Once I got the outside cut down I started making the cuts for the coal bunker. I had a couple of firm starting points (back and bottom sheets of bunker) so I scribed lines for the cuts and eyeballed the sloped cut, leaving more material in place in case I mis-calculated:
I've got both pieces close to the correct fit, but I need to do the final fits to make it right. I'll probably have to fill in a few spots with plastic epoxy.
Here's what it looks like temporarily together:
I'm going to remove the plug, glue some sheet styrene to it, and turn it in the mini-lathe to the convex shape of the rear of the water tank. I plan on making it a press fit so I can install a PS2 or PS3 electronics package at a later date. I need to make the rear end it keyed so I can remove it and place it back in the correct position.
I meant to call PSC today, but got working on this and forgot
, also need to order the Archer rivets. It shouldn't be a problem putting them on with it built-up.Next big task is making the underframe!
Bob, your work is incredible. Everything you do is outstanding. I like seeing your progress as I learn alot from what you do. Hopefully soon I can get enough time to give it a shot.
Thanks Ralph!
The hardest part is getting started, once you make that first cut the rest is easy.
Cutting the pipe so the coal bunker would fit was tedious. I knew where to make the starting cuts, but the depth of the cuts was a guess. I made shallow cuts downward, set the bunker in place and marked areas on the pipe that needed to be cut further, then cut some more. Last night I finally got it pretty close, but want to add some detail before I glue the bunker in place.
I've been looking for photos that would show me more detail on what looks like steps on the side of the water tank, but so far I've found nothing. Also, I don't see a rear light on the first photo I posted of Seaboard's #427 tender. I'll take a look thru all my books to see if I can find a photo with a rear light later tonight.
The hardest part is getting started, once you make that first cut the rest is easy.
Cutting the pipe so the coal bunker would fit was tedious. I knew where to make the starting cuts, but the depth of the cuts was a guess. I made shallow cuts downward, set the bunker in place and marked areas on the pipe that needed to be cut further, then cut some more. Last night I finally got it pretty close, but want to add some detail before I glue the bunker in place.
I've been looking for photos that would show me more detail on what looks like steps on the side of the water tank, but so far I've found nothing. Also, I don't see a rear light on the first photo I posted of Seaboard's #427 tender. I'll take a look thru all my books to see if I can find a photo with a rear light later tonight.
I think you've managed to capture it nicely there, Bob!
I'm 1/2 tempted to ask you to start a new thread on just the construction sequence, etc.
I'm 1/2 tempted to ask you to start a new thread on just the construction sequence, etc.
Thanks Martin for your comments and help!
What I might do is hold off on any more posts here until I get it built (except asking for help if I need it), taking pictures in the process. That way I can put the build sequence altogether in one "new" post. I'm my own worst enemy when it comes to staying on topic.
What I might do is hold off on any more posts here until I get it built (except asking for help if I need it), taking pictures in the process. That way I can put the build sequence altogether in one "new" post. I'm my own worst enemy when it comes to staying on topic.
quote:Originally posted by Bob Delbridge:
Thanks Martin for your comments and help!
What I might do is hold off on any more posts here until I get it built (except asking for help if I need it), taking pictures in the process. That way I can put the build sequence altogether in one "new" post. I'm my own worst enemy when it comes to staying on topic.
Actually, to keep yourself on topic, take good notes and photos and turn it into an article for OST,
You're such a "trickster", I knew you were going to say that
Speaking of which...I know some (if not all) magazines don't like re-using photos that have already been shown. Is OST like that. In other words, would I have to retake the photos I've already done to submit an article to them?
Speaking of which...I know some (if not all) magazines don't like re-using photos that have already been shown. Is OST like that. In other words, would I have to retake the photos I've already done to submit an article to them?
quote:Originally posted by Bob Delbridge:
You're such a "trickster", I knew you were going to say that
My other hat says, "Loki",
quote:Speaking of which...I know some (if not all) magazines don't like re-using photos that have already been shown. Is OST like that. In other words, would I have to retake the photos I've already done to submit an article to them?
I generally have dozens to hundreds of photos of any buuild that I do to select from - some get dropped on Forums and the rest are reserved for articles -- no overlap or at least very minimal.
Using photos in an article is tricky, especially if one has posted photos of previous work and models.
Yes, a new and different set of photos should be used if you plan to write an article about this project. What I do for articles is keep the shots as they were from the camera.
The size of the photo should be at least 2 megs. 4 megs or larger is preferred.
Where a photo might need to be cropped, I sometimes include a small JPG cropped as I would like to see it. However it's up to the publisher's editor as to what they choose to do.
Putting your work on the 'net for open access can reduce the chances of that project becoming a published article. On OST's website I have two photo albums. One covers rebuilding an old Kasiner 'junker' into what became a prize-winning model. The other has photos of my late layout. Neither of these I think have much potential for a published article.
I doubt there are many interested in doing their own Ksainer resurrection. There are a number of old Kasiner kits, half-kits(many missing parts) and poorly built models are out there that could be done. However they do take time and work.
As for my old layout that was torn down because of the need to move in 2010, a few photos of it were put up in the OGR Photo Forum some years ago but they disappear after 6 months. My current showing of a CNJ train and a couple of Mac Shops cars I've built will be gone by July. On the OST site, I think my photos can stay until I remove them, or if the website owner wants them off.
The major O scale model project I'm now working on is a scratch-built, super-detailed 2 rail model of B&O Class F-4bc dining car 1035 as it appeared in the late 1950s. I've made a set of over 60 photos covering the prototype and how this model is being built in wood, metal and some styrene.
I'll probably not write an article about this project. The kind of model making I do is considered to be largely old-fashioned and obsolete. I have shown a few photos of this dining car project here and there. However, that also puts the brakes on using them in a possible construction article. This set of photos are for the person who asked me to build this car.
And one more step as well: Once photos in an article that is published have appeared in circulation, they should not be posted again on the 'net.
Ed Bommer
Yes, a new and different set of photos should be used if you plan to write an article about this project. What I do for articles is keep the shots as they were from the camera.
The size of the photo should be at least 2 megs. 4 megs or larger is preferred.
Where a photo might need to be cropped, I sometimes include a small JPG cropped as I would like to see it. However it's up to the publisher's editor as to what they choose to do.
Putting your work on the 'net for open access can reduce the chances of that project becoming a published article. On OST's website I have two photo albums. One covers rebuilding an old Kasiner 'junker' into what became a prize-winning model. The other has photos of my late layout. Neither of these I think have much potential for a published article.
I doubt there are many interested in doing their own Ksainer resurrection. There are a number of old Kasiner kits, half-kits(many missing parts) and poorly built models are out there that could be done. However they do take time and work.
As for my old layout that was torn down because of the need to move in 2010, a few photos of it were put up in the OGR Photo Forum some years ago but they disappear after 6 months. My current showing of a CNJ train and a couple of Mac Shops cars I've built will be gone by July. On the OST site, I think my photos can stay until I remove them, or if the website owner wants them off.
The major O scale model project I'm now working on is a scratch-built, super-detailed 2 rail model of B&O Class F-4bc dining car 1035 as it appeared in the late 1950s. I've made a set of over 60 photos covering the prototype and how this model is being built in wood, metal and some styrene.
I'll probably not write an article about this project. The kind of model making I do is considered to be largely old-fashioned and obsolete. I have shown a few photos of this dining car project here and there. However, that also puts the brakes on using them in a possible construction article. This set of photos are for the person who asked me to build this car.
And one more step as well: Once photos in an article that is published have appeared in circulation, they should not be posted again on the 'net.
Ed Bommer
quote:Using photos in an article is tricky, especially if one has posted photos of previous work and models.
I try to avoid it at all costs.
quote:And one more step as well: Once photos in an article that is published have appeared in circulation, they should not be posted again on the 'net.
....without permission.
quote:I'll probably not write an article about this project. The kind of model making I do is considered to be largely old-fashioned and obsolete.
Every time I think about that regarding any of my own model projects, I get proven wrong. Ithink that there's still a lot of folks "out there" that do appreciate those types of articles.
Thanks Ed and Martin.
At best this is a semi-scale build. Other than some dimensions I got out of prince's book I have no hard facts pertaining to the Seaboard Vanderbilt tender.
Right now I'm looking for vandy rivet patterns, the photos I have are blury at best, but I do have the old Model Railroader Steam Locomotives Cyclopedia Volume 1 which has some decent photos and drawings. That'll give me a clue has to how they were put together.
I'll take more photos, then decide if it's worth it to submit.
At the rate I'm going it'll be the end of the year before I'm done anyway!
At best this is a semi-scale build. Other than some dimensions I got out of prince's book I have no hard facts pertaining to the Seaboard Vanderbilt tender.
Right now I'm looking for vandy rivet patterns, the photos I have are blury at best, but I do have the old Model Railroader Steam Locomotives Cyclopedia Volume 1 which has some decent photos and drawings. That'll give me a clue has to how they were put together.
I'll take more photos, then decide if it's worth it to submit.
At the rate I'm going it'll be the end of the year before I'm done anyway!
quote:At best this is a semi-scale build. Other than some dimensions I got out of prince's book I have no hard facts pertaining to the Seaboard Vanderbilt tender.
Maybe OGR is a better destination,
I cannot speak for any magazine, but submissions are what makes it work. Submit anything you can, and let the editors select. Be up front about it, and state that it has been discussed on a forum.
Anything is fair game. Plastic tenders, resurrecting Kasiners, whatever. Sometimes short articles can be filler. Before all these neat extrusions hit the market, for me the Kasiners were the only game in town, and I did some serious mods to them. I should have done an article - I know it would have been published.
Anything is fair game. Plastic tenders, resurrecting Kasiners, whatever. Sometimes short articles can be filler. Before all these neat extrusions hit the market, for me the Kasiners were the only game in town, and I did some serious mods to them. I should have done an article - I know it would have been published.
quote:I am wondering if smaller PVC could
be layered up with styrene?
I know PVC can be super glued to styrene. If the question is can you find styrene tubing, PVC pipe, and possibly brass tubing that will fit/slide together, I think the answer is NO.
Pipe is measured by "nominal" inside diameter, tubing is measure by outside diameter. Brass tubing is made (K&S???) so that it can be slide onto another piece, but that may be in the smaller diameters. Some of the styrene tubing does too, but when you start combining pipe and tubing it all goes out the window.
If you have a community college nearby see if they have any type of machine shop classes. You may be able to take a piece up to them and have them cut it for you. A nearby machine shop may do it also, but if they're like the one I worked at they'll charge you a basic hourly fee, which could be more than your willing to pay.
bob2,
I think that's the answer.
The "problem" with me is reminding myself to take photos while I'm working and not after the fact.
I was on my out to the garage to trim down the end cap to the water tank when I stopped at the computer to check in on the forum. Realized I hadn't taken a photo of the end prior to turning so I need to go back up and break out the camera!
I think that's the answer.
The "problem" with me is reminding myself to take photos while I'm working and not after the fact.
I was on my out to the garage to trim down the end cap to the water tank when I stopped at the computer to check in on the forum. Realized I hadn't taken a photo of the end prior to turning so I need to go back up and break out the camera!
quote:The "problem" with me is reminding myself to take photos while I'm working and not after the fact.
I was on my out to the garage to trim down the end cap to the water tank when I stopped at the computer to check in on the forum. Realized I hadn't taken a photo of the end prior to turning so I need to go back up and break out the camera!
One of the major reasons I take photos of everything (other than for articles) as I go is that just about every time I set up for a set of photos I see something I forgot to do -- same story back when I look at the picture on the computer -- it's a useful tool and critic of your efforts - given the digital camera era, it's just too easy not to pause and take 10-20 pictures to look and and see where I've gone wrong this time....
quote:and see where I've gone wrong this time
yep,
I realized while I was taking a photo of the coal bunker that I should have built the front wall longer vice extending the floor "lip" out front (photos 1 and 2), although I would have had to make the floor 2 pieces instead of the wall.
I guess (as I heard a British announcer of a horse race say) it's "6 and two 3s" or as we say "6 of one, half a dozen of the other".
I received my Rivet decal order from Archer yesterday, I didn't realize they were located in North Carolina!
I haven't opened the packages yet (I ordered 3 sets of the AR88063), I hope there's some instructions in them. I'm not sure if I need to prime/paint first or if I can apply them directly on the PVC and styrene. I'm emailing Archer to find out.
They're on the expensive side, the sheet is only 2-3/4" x 4-1/2" big. At first I thought the rivets were too small, but I think it's because I'm so used to seeing larger (out of scale) rivets on most of my rolling stock. I won't know if a single sheet will be enough for this project or not until I actually apply them.
PSC said the O-scale Steam Locomotive catalog will be available by the end of February, I hate to wait that long. Does anyone know of a LHS that has the PSC catalogs for sale? The places they told me to inquire about it don't seem to have them in stock. I really need to see photos before I order anything.
I haven't opened the packages yet (I ordered 3 sets of the AR88063), I hope there's some instructions in them. I'm not sure if I need to prime/paint first or if I can apply them directly on the PVC and styrene. I'm emailing Archer to find out.
They're on the expensive side, the sheet is only 2-3/4" x 4-1/2" big. At first I thought the rivets were too small, but I think it's because I'm so used to seeing larger (out of scale) rivets on most of my rolling stock. I won't know if a single sheet will be enough for this project or not until I actually apply them.
PSC said the O-scale Steam Locomotive catalog will be available by the end of February, I hate to wait that long. Does anyone know of a LHS that has the PSC catalogs for sale? The places they told me to inquire about it don't seem to have them in stock. I really need to see photos before I order anything.
Bob
If you are within a reasonable drive to Williamsburg, you could look at my PSC catalog and see the railroad. I've used a large number of PSC castings on "up-detailing" 2 rail steam.
email me if interested in scheduling a vist.
Ed Rappe
If you are within a reasonable drive to Williamsburg, you could look at my PSC catalog and see the railroad. I've used a large number of PSC castings on "up-detailing" 2 rail steam.
email me if interested in scheduling a vist.
Ed Rappe
Ed,
Thanks for the offer! I'll email you shortly.
Thanks for the offer! I'll email you shortly.
