Just as with painting, be sure to clean raw PVC or any styrene with alcohol to clean off any manufacturing oils or silicones before applying Archer's rivet decals.
Other than that, they go on just like any decals, even to using some setting solution to minimize the film.
Ed Bommer
Thanks Ed! Woody, the owner at Archer, emailed me the instructions so I'm good to go.
I'm trying to put on as much structural detail as I can before I put the rivets on. Right now I'm working on the underframe.
Once I get a peak at the catalog Ed has I can order the rest of the smaller detailed parts from PSC or one of their distributors.
I'm trying to put on as much structural detail as I can before I put the rivets on. Right now I'm working on the underframe.
Once I get a peak at the catalog Ed has I can order the rest of the smaller detailed parts from PSC or one of their distributors.
I just want to give a big shoutout to Ed Rappe and all the help he gave me.
Ed invited me to his house Monday to look thru the PSC Steam Locomotive catalog. Not only did I get to do that, but I also got to see his MAGNIFICENT 2-rail layout
Very well-planned out, got all the trackage and trackside structures a person could possibly want and easy to get around in to view all the sites. I don't envy the job he has ahead of him doing the ground scenery though, he may have to call in a landscaping company to be able to manage it all.
Ed, when I got home I wanted to see if the motor on the 4-6-0 was good to go and it ran fine (I hooked a DC power pack to the leads), but what I wanted to tell you was that I have the exact same motor in my parts box that I pulled out of an old Canon printer. Good to know I have a spare or one for another project!
Anyway, thanks for having me over Ed!
Ed invited me to his house Monday to look thru the PSC Steam Locomotive catalog. Not only did I get to do that, but I also got to see his MAGNIFICENT 2-rail layout
Very well-planned out, got all the trackage and trackside structures a person could possibly want and easy to get around in to view all the sites. I don't envy the job he has ahead of him doing the ground scenery though, he may have to call in a landscaping company to be able to manage it all.
Ed, when I got home I wanted to see if the motor on the 4-6-0 was good to go and it ran fine (I hooked a DC power pack to the leads), but what I wanted to tell you was that I have the exact same motor in my parts box that I pulled out of an old Canon printer. Good to know I have a spare or one for another project!
Anyway, thanks for having me over Ed!
Bob
I was pleased to meet you in person and hope we'll be able to follow your vandy tender project to completion on this forum. I'm particularly interested to hear your impressions and lessons learned in using the Archer rivet decals.
Ed Rappe
PS glad to hear the Weaver G5 4-6-0 mech ran ok for you. Over the years I've had several locomotives with that Samhongsa drive train and all were solid performers.
I was pleased to meet you in person and hope we'll be able to follow your vandy tender project to completion on this forum. I'm particularly interested to hear your impressions and lessons learned in using the Archer rivet decals.
Ed Rappe
PS glad to hear the Weaver G5 4-6-0 mech ran ok for you. Over the years I've had several locomotives with that Samhongsa drive train and all were solid performers.
Bob,
The tender is looking great. You will like the Archer rivets. I just finished a project with them and after primer they really stand out.
I found an article tonight about a Vandy/PVC tender in an old issue of 48/ft magazine. You may be aware of that article already. From the photos you have posted I don't think you need it anyway, fine work!
Malcolm
The tender is looking great. You will like the Archer rivets. I just finished a project with them and after primer they really stand out.
I found an article tonight about a Vandy/PVC tender in an old issue of 48/ft magazine. You may be aware of that article already. From the photos you have posted I don't think you need it anyway, fine work!
Malcolm
Thanks guys, still waiting to get all the parts I need.
Ed, I know you told me but I forgot, what brand of circuit board was that with the 4-6-0?
Malcolm, did you prime or paint your car before you applied the rivets? I got conflicting info from Archer (or I'm just reading it wrong). One thing says to apply them then paint, the other says to apply them just like any Microscale decal (after painting).
Ed, I know you told me but I forgot, what brand of circuit board was that with the 4-6-0?
Malcolm, did you prime or paint your car before you applied the rivets? I got conflicting info from Archer (or I'm just reading it wrong). One thing says to apply them then paint, the other says to apply them just like any Microscale decal (after painting).
Bob
I think it's QSI's. As the mechanism is from a Weaver PRR G5, one way to get an answer would be to call Weaver's service department - I've found them to be very helpful. Someone on the Forum may also be able to help. When I bought the "basket case" I was told that it ran fine, with the bent cab being the only damage. I never tested it under AC power as my original plan was to convert it to 2 rail DCC.
Ed Rappe
I think it's QSI's. As the mechanism is from a Weaver PRR G5, one way to get an answer would be to call Weaver's service department - I've found them to be very helpful. Someone on the Forum may also be able to help. When I bought the "basket case" I was told that it ran fine, with the bent cab being the only damage. I never tested it under AC power as my original plan was to convert it to 2 rail DCC.
Ed Rappe
Thanks Ed. I'll send them an email or give them a call. If they can't tell me, I'll post a photo here.
