Weathering Powders

For weathering engines Norm C. Made a video that really is a must see.
Experimenting with chalks I noticed if you dull coat your finished model it dulls the chalk highlights.  So you may have to re~apply.

On an engine or rolling stock, the powders should be protected with dullcote. You will be handling them periodically. They dust for fingerprints at a crime scene to make them visible. Sort of the same thing happens (except in reverse order) on anything weathered with unprotected powders.

 

Practice and experience will show you how much you have to "over-weather" to account for the effect of the dullcote spray.

 

Jim

I will check out his video

 

Use a little more powder than you normally would. In other words, make it a it heavier/thicker or dirtier than you want it to be. If you use Dull-Cote in the spray can, it's pretty much going to make all the powder disappear.

 

If you use the liquid Dull-Cote (in the bottle), dilute it 50/50 with laquer thinner, only spray at 10-15 psi with your airbrush, and hold the airbrush much farther away than you do when you paint. If you get real close, and spray between 25-35 psi, it's going to blow off all the powder. You only need a real fine (light) coat, it's doesn't need to be really heavy.

 

Another trick, while you're spraying the Dull-Cote, especially with white and grey powders, keep the powders handy while you spray. Spray the Dull-Cote, and and brush those areas lightly with powder again, while the Dull-Cote is still damp. You only need to do that if your powder disappears or you want it heavier after it's been sprayed with Dull-Cote.  

All good tips so far. One more to consider. If you use regular chalk, it can be removed fairly easily. Bragdons powders have a self adhesive include and not easily removed. However, colors don't fade as much with dullcote as plain powder. For the amount used the cost is insignificant. Good Luck

 

Ray Marion

My vote is for Bragdon's for the reasons mentioned above. The issue i had with chalk is getting the pressure of the Dullcote spray reduced enough to NOT blow the chalk away, but still be effective. Then i discovered Bragdon's.

jackson

LOWES Valspar flat, the choice of professionals.

 

 

LEFT – Krylon flat

It’s OK leaving the colors but it has a slight shine to it. Not really flat as advertised.

 

CENTER – LOWES Valspar flat

It’s flat and keeps all the colors. My choice and also recommended by Don Smith, Industrial Models.

 

RIGHT – Dullcote can

It’s flat but makes colors darker and weak.

 

 

Click on the photo to see closer view.

 

 

Steve

ontraktwo Weathering

 

 

 

 

 

J Daddy Where do you view or buy Norm C's video on weathering? His weathered engines on his blog are incredible. Bob

My take on using powders WITHOUT sealing them in place is this...(1) it's not permanent, (2) if some of it gets smudged it can easily be re-worked, (3) if you don't like the looks it can be removed, (4) another coat of spray can only diminish what detail is there, like bolts/rivets, and (5) spraying a sealer coat over chalks is permanent, no turning back.

 

I've been pleased with the couple of cars I've used chalks on, without spraying over them.  Once I get a few other projects out of the way I'll be getting around to weathering more of my rolling stock with chalks.

I agree with Bob's approach.  Prototypical dirt isn't sealed on - it is ever changing, so if I smudge mine a bit and it looks bad, I either add more, or smudge it more to create a slightly different look.  

It's bonus material in the DVD World Class HiRail Layouts Part Four