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I've only good about there steam engines now on diesels it depends how old it is as the older ones use like a drive shaft and the plastic chain which drives it both I had I had to send to them to repair it. just my relationship with them now I presently have a newer version with 2 can type motors ( no drive shaft system ) and it runs like a champ couldn't be happier 

 

I can only comment on the one I have - a Milwaukee Road Baltic. It is beautiful, and in detail, rivals other manufacturers, of course, it is brass. The sound package is decent, being an older Lionel rail sounds chip. Paint is flawless. I was initially concerned with pulling power, but that was just a made-up thing. If I could buy another road number, I would.

Ryan, the issue of the plastic gears and chain breaking ONLY applies to older diesels that have the single motor horizontal drive system. When I was in a train club one member had a Weaver 2-8-0 (it was a 2 rail version) and I liked how smooth it ran but I've yet to own any Weaver steam of my own. I wouldn't hesitate to buy one. 

It would help greatly if you could post what steam engine you are considering, when it was built, and what kind of electronics it has. There's quite a bit of variation in brass engines over the years, and the operating characteristics depend on the electronics. Also, some models have known operating issues. I'm assuming here that you are looking at a brass engine, since Weaver has only made a few die-cast steam locomotives.

 

Weaver makes an excellent product, but brass engines are by nature a bit fiddly. They are hand made in small quantities and generally have complex subassemblies such as sprung drivers. There are a lot of small detail parts that are soldered in place. They require careful handling to avoid damaging details. All this adds up to a more complex and challenging model than a comparable die-cast steamer from a major manufacturer. I have half a dozen or more Weaver brass steamers. Some have been completely trouble-free, some have had minor problems, and one or two have required some significant work to get them to operate properly. The Weaver engines are generally very well made, but minor glitches are par for the course with any brass models. 

 

The majority of problems I've had with Weaver steamers actually have nothing to do with Weaver. The problems have been with electronics that Weaver has at various times purchased from Lionel, Train America Studios, and QSI. When Lionel was pumping out bad R2LC radio boards, they failed on my Weaver engines at about the same rate they did on Lionel products. Likewise the notorious problem with smoke fan motors running backwards. Old QSI reverse and sound boards have their own well-known set of problems, which can be managed or you can just have the unit converted to TMCC or DCS. 

 

The big advantage of brass engines is detail. They have lots of detail and generally look better than die-cast engines for that reason. My Weaver Milwaukee Road F6a 4-6-4 is the most exquisitely detailed model train I have ever owned, or seen outside of something from Kohs. 

 

One thing Weaver has going for it is superlative customer support. Gary, their service manager, has given me top-notch help every time I have needed it. He has talked me through any number of repairs, as I generally prefer to fix things myself rather than incur the expense and risk of shipping a locomotive to Pennsylvania. If you look through old posts on this forum, you will find a constant wave of appreciation for Weaver in general and Gary in particular because of their customer service. 

 

My own Weaver steam engines are some of my most prized 0 gauge locomotives, and I have no plans to sell any of them any time soon. I recommend them highly to anyone who is willing to accept the reality that they are likely to require more tweaking and more careful handling than they typical die-cast steamer. 

 

 

From the Weaver Archive

1804-S/L/LP

 

1804-S/L/SP/LP

 

 

BALDWIN CONSOLIDATION / 2-8-0 DIECAST

 

 

WESTERN MARYLAND

 

 

753, 758

 

750, 762

 

 

2002

 

2006

 

 

$495.00

 

$595.00 TMCC

 

 

BODY/BLACK          SMOKE BOX/GRAPHITE          PRINT/YELLOW

 

 

This locomotive is from the same issue.  The one pictured has TMCC control, but does not have speed control  Good detail.  I have not run this model very much.  It's a display piece.  My foggy head  seems to remember at the time, a sale.  The TMCC versions (LP) were offered at $495.  I could be wrong and often. 

I have a lot of Weaver products. They are an exceptional company, wonderful people.

Mike CT

Last edited by Mike CT

The Weaver die-cast 2-8-0 is an excellent little engine, ideally suited to a small or medium sized layout. I have had one for years and it's one of my favorites. It has three drawbacks, all of them fairly minor.

-- As Michael mentioned, it starts with a lunge. This is due to the electronics; put an ERR cruise control in it and it should be fine.

-- Only one chuff per rev. The chuff is activated by a microswitch that is triggered once each rev. If a faster chuff is important to you, the chuff switch can be replaced with a reed switch and magnets on the drivers, or a reed switch and a single magnet on one wheel of the tender. 

-- The smoke unit is an old-style puffer, not a fan-driven unit. Smoke output is respectable, but if you simply must have billowing clouds of smoke, there's probably room in there to upgrade. 

 

The Weaver engine is quite large for a Consolidation. Some have questioned whether it is, in fact, a scale model at all. The answer is yes, it is modeled after an Illinois Central locomotive and scale drawings can be found in the Model Railroader Cyclopedia. I measured mine and all major dimensions are within a few scale inches.

Hey guys - thank you for the feedback. I own a couple of the MTH Premier 2-8-0's and I love them. They're probably my favorite engines. I've got 2 more pre-ordered. I'm currently expanding the layout and it's going to be 22x12. 

 

Most of the mentioned concerns seem minor or something that can easily be rectified. My only concern is that I've gotten very much into only modeling things that you would have seen on the prototype. Since I model the WM, I like to purchase engines/rolling stock that actually were on the WM. I guess I'm a little OCD. 

 

Southwest - you mentioned it's modeled after an Illinois Central? I'm thinking this design is a H-7 - is that correct?  

 

Gunrunnerjohn - that is a beautiful engine. I want one  

Last edited by rshawyer36

Ryan,

   I have the Complete Weaver 0-8-0 Masonic Train the Steam Engine runs perfectly, especially with the DCS TR mode.  The only complaint is that the rubber Weaver uses for the traction tire, expands to much after running for more than 45 continuous minutes at a time.   I will need to invest in some additional traction rubber this next Christmas.  I expect my Weaver trains to run perfectly for at least 25 years, the traction tires are only 15 years old this Christmas.

PCRR/Dave

Masonic Christmas Train 001

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Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad
My reference book refers to the IC prototype for the Weaver Consolidation as the 900 class. If you want a specific scale model of a Western Maryland Consolidation, MTH has made an excellent model of the H-9, which I have been told was the biggest 2-8-0 ever built in the United States.
 
Originally Posted by rshawyer36:

Hey guys - thank you for the feedback. I own a couple of the MTH Premier 2-8-0's and I love them. They're probably my favorite engines. I've got 2 more pre-ordered. I'm currently expanding the layout and it's going to be 22x12. 

 

Most of the mentioned concerns seem minor or something that can easily be rectified. My only concern is that I've gotten very much into only modeling things that you would have seen on the prototype. Since I model the WM, I like to purchase engines/rolling stock that actually were on the WM. I guess I'm a little OCD. 

 

Southwest - you mentioned it's modeled after an Illinois Central? I'm thinking this design is a H-7 - is that correct?  

 

Gunrunnerjohn - that is a beautiful engine. I want one  

 

I agree with the above comments in regards to both quality and service. I have several Weaver brass and cast steamers and like all of them. Yes, some of the brass can be finicky but there usually correctable without to much work. I love brass engines with or without the issues. The really nice thing about Weaver locos is the fact that weather you buy them new or used you will still receive some of the best customer service available, hands down.

 

Weaver seems to be taking a break from the steam category at the moment but I do hope they do some more in the not to distance future. I'd love to see them do a 2-6-6-2 N1, 2 or 3. Milwaukee Road of course.

 

Milwrd

 

 

I have a large fleet of the original Weaver FAs, FBs, and RS3, and also a pair of GP38s.   All have the very superb single motor drive.   That drive is the smoothest and easiest style drive to maintain of any designed.   

 

I have a few dual motor locos from Weaver and MTH and they start and stop with jerk in many cases because no matter what I do, the motors do not start and stop at the same time.   They also have top speeds that would qualify them for the Daytona 500.    I find both of these features disagreeable.

 

The single motor drives however, always start and stop smoothly once adjusted and run in.   Also the chain/sprocket tower is like a car transmission, it allows the motor to run faster while the loco runs at slower speeds.    This contributes both to smooth running and slower top speeds.

 

Some of the original drives did have problems with the gears splitting on both the axles and the shafts.   These are easily replaced at home with simple tools.   Once you do one, you can do a bunch.   P&D hobbies still sells parts to repair these.   

 

The only time I have heard of someone destroying these drives in operation is when they put in 5 or more lbs of lead and overloaded all the bearings.   The trucks failed, the gears failed, but actually the chain never seems to.

 

My single units will easily put 25 cars on level track without even slipping with only factory installed weights.   If I have a longer train, I simply add another unit.  

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