Weekend Tinplate photos 📸 and videos 📽 6/25/20!

@Chris Lonero posted:

 

My 5 rail project is done! ✅ 🎉

     Let’s see your tinplate! 🚂

I welcome to the 5 rail club.

Steve

Scott Smith

I finally painted my Christmas tin buildings to create a farm scene in a corner of my layout.  They will eventually get signage.

Jim 

There is no way I can compete with Chris' 5 track extravaganza.  But I have updated my toy train internet site. Plenty of new photos including tinplate, especially stations.  And I have new Section Headers to make it easy to navigate the site.  Check it out and let me know what you think. Lew Schneider   www.myworldoftrains.shutterfly.com

Slowly completing a BING set of the British company LNER. Need to find another one in the same condition; I always enjoy the look of those teak cars, the paint is really well made.

Have a nice weekend,  Daniel

I finally put together enough parts to get this red Cascade version of the McCoy E2 running again. This poor engine had parts stolen off it several times to allow me to get other versions of this engine running. So now I'm up to 8 running E2s and at some point I'll try to video them all running together. Now to disassemble this train one more time so that it can be thoroughly cleaned and waxed. Stay safe everyone!

@Jim Z posted:

I finally painted my Christmas tin buildings to create a farm scene in a corner of my layout.  They will eventually get signage.

 

Jim 

I have that one and like it. How did you paint it? Any tips? Mine is still bare. I tried painting an older model with spray paint and masking off sections, but the painters tape pulled the base layer off. I don't think I was getting good adhesion to the metal.

George

George if it’s bare metal I would wipe it down with some alcohol wipes and use a good quality primer for metal and good quality paint. 

You are probably right Chris. The issue was most likely that I didn't prep the metal correctly. These pre-assembled buildings are tricky though. It would be so much easier if I could take them apart.

George

How are they put together?    Any tinplate I ever restored I stripped the paint off which is a pain especially if you don’t like working with chemicals. 

@Chris Lonero posted:

How are they put together?    Any tinplate I ever restored I stripped the paint off which is a pain especially if you don’t like working with chemicals. 

I thought those buildings, like the lighted church from a few years back, were made from galvanized steel and the coating had to be washed off with thinner or tinning fluid.

Scott Smith

@George S posted:

I have that one and like it. How did you paint it? Any tips? Mine is still bare. I tried painting an older model with spray paint and masking off sections, but the painters tape pulled the base layer off. I don't think I was getting good adhesion to the metal.

George

I wiped the surface and used Rustoleum 2x ultra cover paint and  primer. I haven’t noticed any issue with flaking or not adhering to the metal.I did quite a bit of masking with 2” blue tape and didn’t have any problems with pulling paint off.

That is good paint which I use pretty often but I found it needs extra drying time between coats.  If you put another coat on to soon or to thick the paint wrinkle on you. 

I did a tin plate house a while ago. It was sold by Hallmark. This house was galvanized and what I did was to rub it down with scotchbrite to score the surface better. Used lawyer thinner to wipe it down. I used the etching primer than the first coat of color. Let it dry for several days then used the Tamayla Thin masking for the edges then the blue masking for the fillings. Came out good. Framed all the windows and doors. Use a brown texture paint on the roof. Never pulled the paint off with the masking tape and no paint blend under the tape. Just take your time and have fun.

New in the collection.

Carette train indicator from 1911.

Along with 2 similar ones from Bing

Bing snow blower 10/536/0

Arne

Arne: VERY nice! THANKS for sharing!

Here's a few nice homes along the tracks. Don

@Chris Lonero posted:

How are they put together?    Any tinplate I ever restored I stripped the paint off which is a pain especially if you don’t like working with chemicals. 

They are welded together. They don't come apart.

@Jim O'C posted:

I thought those buildings, like the lighted church from a few years back, were made from galvanized steel and the coating had to be washed off with thinner or tinning fluid.

I think that is a similar one.

@RonH posted:

I did a tin plate house a while ago. It was sold by Hallmark. This house was galvanized and what I did was to rub it down with scotchbrite to score the surface better. Used lawyer thinner to wipe it down. I used the etching primer than the first coat of color. Let it dry for several days then used the Tamayla Thin masking for the edges then the blue masking for the fillings. Came out good. Framed all the windows and doors. Use a brown texture paint on the roof. Never pulled the paint off with the masking tape and no paint blend under the tape. Just take your time and have fun.

That's the one I had trouble with.

@Jim Z posted:

I wiped the surface and used Rustoleum 2x ultra cover paint and  primer. I haven’t noticed any issue with flaking or not adhering to the metal.I did quite a bit of masking with 2” blue tape and didn’t have any problems with pulling paint off.

I like that paint, but you really need to let it dry awhile. Sounds like this surface is not as bad as the galvanized ones. I may give it a try. Lots of nooks and crannies to get the paint into though...

George

More tinplate fun. Don

Arne.  Here is the Bing version, several years later.

Lew Schneider

@George S posted:

They are welded together. They don't come apart.

Eeeek! 😬  Welded!?  And I thought restoring American Flyer was bad with all the rivets! 

@Chris Lonero posted:

 My 5 rail project is done! ✅ 🎉

 

Chris your 5-rail posts inspired me to attempt a similar but basic 0-42 5-rail project for under the Christmas tree.  I have enough 0-42 Std Gauge track but must hunt for some 0-42 O-gauge (might just buy some Menards) to get going.  Always wondered why Gargraves only offered their 5 rail in straights; no curves  :-(

@Jim Z posted:

I finally painted my Christmas tin buildings to create a farm scene in a corner of my layout.  They will eventually get signage.

Jim 

Jim, I too have the same building that I picked up at Michael's when they were discounted 90% off plus an additional % off with coupon - I think I paid less than $10.  I was planning to convert it to a small coal breaker/distributor by painting it a grimy gray/black w/ some windowed corrugated flats placed behind.  But I may change my plans after seeing your good looking Christmas barn.

Lew,

curious is, Bing had made 2 different clocks, with 12 and 24 hours.

Arne

Going through tons off trains for family of a friend that passed. Trying to organize for sale. Just getting in the Ives windup stuff. Don

been cooped up too long,,,,,,soooooooooooooooo doin some streakin tonight,,,,,,,yep,,,,,,streakin,,,,,,,,ok  as in blue and silver,,,,,fun,never realized the whistles are different in these

Here is my 1st Joy Line set I ever had. The wind up mechanism was broke so it was removed so it could free wheel.

Wow!  what incredible tinplate.  Frenchtrains - beautiful Bing LNER cars.   Jim Kelley Evans - I don't know the make but the signal bridge and train (Marklin?) is really cool.  Arne -  the Carette train indicator is amazing and Lew has another one by Bing.  I can't imagine where you two have found stuff nearly 100 years old or older but in such great shape. 

My contribution this weekend is more along the lines of Rambler Don - great JL passenger set by the way. Cast engine is earlier than the sheet metal engines used later.

  What I have is a group of very early, Series 1, Marx 6" cars.  They have the silver lithographed frame (SLF), short wheelbase, thin axles, and Joy Line couplers (JLC).  These were made in this configuration (iaw Heitshaw disc) in 1935 only and represent the first production of these 6" cars post Marx taking over the Gerard Model Works in 1934.  I have managed to find 4 of 5 freight cars (missing the hopper car) and the 1935 Green US Mail/Baggage car that will go with the 2 Pullmans in same early configuration I posted previously.

Here is the group, note SLF and JLC with a round hole instead of a slot in the coupler.

The 1935 Baggage / Mail car.  Sliding doors and marked for NYC along the top edge.  Ends have no lithography at all just the base color of green.  Note the short wheelbase common to all these cars.  The axles pierce the inner set of lithographed journal boxes as opposed to the outer set used later. 

The 552, early CRI&P Gondola.  In all other 1935 Series cars the coupler uses a twisted tab retention mechanism, installed in a horizontal slot in the floor of the frame.  In the Gondola only, the couplers are shortened and riveted to the floor. 

Early Colorado and Southern Refer.  Lithographed shown as # 817 plus some indistinguishable markings which has nothing to do with Marx number,cataloged as # 91453

Early Santa Fe tank car #553 .  Note the round hole in the top of the coupler as opposed to the more common slot of tab/slot couplers that followed in later configurations.

#694 Early NYC caboose.  Note platform railing and ladder on rear but has couplers on both ends.

  While these resemble the reasonably common Marx 6" cars, the 1935 configuration with the SLF , thin axles and short wheelbase plus the JLC's set these apart and date them as the first configuration from Louis Marx after he took over from Gerard Model Works.

Have a great weekend folks

Don

Late to the party again , and yet again astounded by everyones offerings ....

Are we just the luckiest or what folks !

The long time rascals in this thread might recall a year ago or so I managed to aquire a collection of British locos , one of which was a fairly scarce British Marx Silverlink Loco and tender , which was sadly missing a drive wheel and had a damaged axle  ... All good things come to those who wait tho , because this week I was lucky enough to find the exact wheel I was looking for ... and even better in Australia and at a very reasonable $75

Quick reminder of the Silverlink in question ...

And here is the spare wheel and axle for it .... I know some people will think $AUD75( 50ish US$) for a Marx wheel ... That Fatman is on drugs!

It did however come with a few other parts .....

A whole SWAG of British Marx ! Two electric and one clockwork loco , with tenders and one carriage , and other stuffs thrown in ... even a little Triang Minic "Jack in the Boat " clockwork rowboat ( for a little extra )

A happy day at Casa Fatmanos !

Hello @Fatman, it doen't seems to be a bad deal.... you save your first loco which is nice and you have something to work with so very good. What could be the price with shipping from USA for some parts, way too much so enjoy and send a picture of your completed SIlverlink loco...

Daniel

Fatman : Two great boxes of neat "stuff" plus you get to complete your Silver Link...what a find! Agree with Daniel, please post a picture when you have completed the repair.  Of course I am also intrigued by the 3978 lithographed loco and tender which I do not believe was ever offered in the US, maybe post a picture of that too!

Don

Arne:

Just noticed that although we each have 6 Bing destination signs, 4 are different! So there were at least 10 different ones made.

Same: Leicester-Derby-Manchester; Southhampton-Portsmouth-Exeter;   

Lew

Finished another vehicle for my layout. It started out as a junk E-Bay buy but now looks pretty good. It's still missing the tow hook but eventually I'll find one.

@Don McErlean I can show you pictures of my British Marx 3978 Locos I already have here ... a black clockwork , and a blue electric set .

Marx opened a British factory in 1937, not great timing , but handy for the Brits as it was converted in the war , like most toy companies, into supplying goods for the war effort ... after the war they reverted back to making toys for the UK market

After the war production went back into making toys They opened another factory in Swansea in South Wales and I believe this is where the later trains were made although I am sure I read somewhere they started production around 1947 at the older Dudley Works  ... here is an ad for Spain by them in 1949

They definitely made other cast trains at Dudley however both proir to and after the war .

Binns road linky  http://www.binnsroad.co.uk/railways/marx/british/

SO here are a few pics of the British Marx 3978's I already have in the collection

Clockwork Black loco

And Electric Blue version ...

@Pete in Kansas posted:

Finished another vehicle for my layout. It started out as a junk E-Bay buy but now looks pretty good. It's still missing the tow hook but eventually I'll find one.

Looks great Pete love the colors!