Seth, yours sound great!! A creeper is worth buying or spending the effort building, especially once one is retired like me.
@Mark Boyce posted:Seth, yours sound great!! A creeper is worth buying or spending the effort building, especially once one is retired like me.
I question a creeper as you are laying flat on your back. But I guess it has a great deal to do with your visual concept of your layout. If your layout is low enough to only accommodate a creeper under it, when running your trains you have the Jolly Green Giant concept where you can overview your entire layout. When considering my layout, I put it at 42 inches above the floor. This way I can visualize myself in the action seeing a Locomotive coming right at me and the cars passing by. The added benefit is I can sit on a mechanic's stool under my layout to perform my wire connections. Just a different way to view our layouts. To each his/her own.
Jeepers Creepers! Can't wait to see what you come up with Mike. I recall a thread on here discussing the subject. Hunt around for inspiration.
Nice pick ups Howard. Especially the "J"
@samparfitt what a great addition to the train room.
Bob
I'm contemplating adding a third track to my small yard. I can only get two 5122 turnouts to fit inside my loop currently, but it looks like I can fit three with a different mfr's turnout. I tried different types in SCARM and it looks like MTH Scaletrax 031's will work. They will need to be heavily modified (OK butchered) !
I did a printout of one from SCARM in 1:1 size. Assuming the straights are 10" long I can cut approximately 3"-4" off of each to get them to fit. I have 27" overall to work with but need to keep the top one about 3" away from the mainline 027 turnout in the back. The supports for my upper level would need to be moved around too much. I'm going to mock up the whole thing on paper and check clearances, etc before pulling the trigger. If I'm going to spend $$$ on new switches I want to make sure it's going to work first.
I know it sounds like a lot of work just to fit two or three more cars on a siding but what the heck- it's winter in NY so there's not much else to do, especially with the lock down's and Covid stuff still raging.
I'd also have to account for space to adapt the rails to my 027 tubular. I did it before going from Fastrack to tubular so I should be able to make this work too.
If anyone has some old Scaletrax (edit) 031's collecting dust please shoot me an email.
I also stopped in Home Depot yesterday and picked up a couple of pieces of 1" rigid foam board for my tunnel project. They sell 2X2 pieces for $5 bucks each. I'm sure this will progress before the track work does.
Bob
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Bob, it’s always a good idea to come up with a project to keep the creativity flowing. Plus it keeps your track gang working.
I like your yard plan Bob. Keep us updated.
Another possible option would be using Lionel's O42 (O27 height) switches. Looking at your ladder track issue, I think if you cut 3 1/2 inches off of the straight section to move them closer together, and put 1/2 of an O27 curve on the curved end, you could wind up with 3 yard tracks about 3 1/2 inches apart in a small space like yours.
Lionel's non-derailing feature will be maintained, I don't know if the MTH switches have this function
Mike - regarding creepers. Harbor Freight has both the flat style (with a backrest) and the round stools usually around $20 each on their perpetual sales.
@RSJB18 posted:I'm contemplating adding a third track to my small yard. I can only get two 5122 turnouts to fit inside my loop currently, but it looks like I can fit three with a different mfr's turnout. I tried different types in SCARM and it looks like MTH Scaletrax 031's will work. They will need to be heavily modified (OK butchered) !
I know it sounds like a lot of work just to fit two or three more cars on a siding but what the heck- it's winter in NY so there's not much else to do, especially with the lock down's and Covid stuff still raging.
I'd also have to account for space to adapt the rails to my 027 tubular. I did it before going from Fastrack to tubular so I should be able to make this work too.
Bob after reading your post I had remembered a previous thread, “Cutting down O22 switches” I saw that might help you.
https://ogrforum.com/topic/15649413456028014
Extra yard tracks are always worth the effort.
Hi Bob, I would go for it! I think its a great idea!
Scott, the transformer setup looks great!
well guys here is what I came up with from a free chair I got from the local fire department to scrap wood laying around the place! I did have to buy new coasters as the ones that came with the chair didnt roll good enough when I was sitting it low to the ground trying to push it! The new ones work alot better! Here are a couple photos for you all to enjoy!
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Mike, That one looks great! I knew yours would be super!! I need to come up with one for scooting around my attic, and it has to be lower than the padded roll around stool I showed you or I'll hit my head on the rafters. I could just leave it up there. I used to crawl, but I can't crawl on the fake knee anymore. I told my wife I needed a padded creeper to sit on. I glanced at inexpensive refrigerator dollies at Walmart a couple weeks ago, and thought a chair with no legs would work, I just don't have a chair to donate. Maybe I should look for one at the thrift stores. I would like to have it before I have to put Christmas decorations away. My wife has 2 fake knees, so I won't let her go up there.
@Mark Boyce posted:Mike, That one looks great! I knew yours would be super!! I need to come up with one for scooting around my attic, and it has to be lower than the padded roll around stool I showed you or I'll hit my head on the rafters. I could just leave it up there. I used to crawl, but I can't crawl on the fake knee anymore. I told my wife I needed a padded creeper to sit on. I glanced at inexpensive refrigerator dollies at Walmart a couple weeks ago, and thought a chair with no legs would work, I just don't have a chair to donate. Maybe I should look for one at the thrift stores. I would like to have it before I have to put Christmas decorations away. My wife has 2 fake knees, so I won't let her go up there.
Thanks Mark, The wife asked me last night why I don't just buy one and when I told her how much they can be, she said have fun building one! LOL
RSJB18
I am somewhat confused. You started by saying Scaltrax was what you used in your layout program. At the en you requested Realtrax. They are both MTH but way different. Cabin fever auctions has scaletrax switches (O31) listed now. Auction is Dec 30th so keep an eye out on it.
Curtis
@CurtisH posted:RSJB18
I am somewhat confused. You started by saying Scaltrax was what you used in your layout program. At the en you requested Realtrax. They are both MTH but way different. Cabin fever auctions has scaletrax switches (O31) listed now. Auction is Dec 30th so keep an eye out on it.
Curtis
Oops- my bad- I went back and edited my original post. Yes Scaletrax is what I need. I will check out Cabin Fever. Thanks
@Rich Wiemann posted:Bob after reading your post I had remembered a previous thread, “Cutting down O22 switches” I saw that might help you.
https://ogrforum.com/topic/15649413456028014
Extra yard tracks are always worth the effort.
Rich- I saw that thread a while back. The biggest problem is the size of the frames. On the referenced thread, 022's were modified. Less plastic and metal to remove. 5122's have the big rectangular bodies which would be a PITA to modify.
@Lionelski posted:I like your yard plan Bob. Keep us updated.
Another possible option would be using Lionel's O42 (O27 height) switches. Looking at your ladder track issue, I think if you cut 3 1/2 inches off of the straight section to move them closer together, and put 1/2 of an O27 curve on the curved end, you could wind up with 3 yard tracks about 3 1/2 inches apart in a small space like yours.
Lionel's non-derailing feature will be maintained, I don't know if the MTH switches have this function
John- I have a pair of 042's on my layout, same as above- too much modification to do. The Scaletrax machines allow the switch points to move freely so powered non-derail is not necessary.
Thanks for the tips and suggestions guy's. More to come.
Bob
Mike that is ingenious. Is it working for you and how high is your layout?
Jay
@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:Mike that is ingenious. Is it working for you and how high is your layout?
Jay
Hi Jay, all the test runs under the layout have been good I am trying to figure out a nice tool holder for it that is going to make things easy for me so I dont have to search for thngs!
I started (and completed) my first ever attempt at making my own building façade, using an Ameritowne building front that my wife gave me for Christmas. Overall I am fairly pleased for a first attempt. I felt like I left a bit too much white paint on the bricks at certain spots (even after using Paint Thinner to get some off). That said, it certainly gives that weathered look.
I added a little gas meter from GC Laser that my wife also gave me for Christmas. This item is much nicer and easier to manage than I expected when I first saw the package -- I thought they were decals at first. But they are laser cut wood. Paint first, clip out, glue together then on. Slick!
And here it is in position, where you can see my stone roof that I added to it:
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@RSJB18 posted:Oops- my bad- I went back and edited my original post. Yes Scaletrax is what I need. I will check out Cabin Fever. Thanks
Rich- I saw that thread a while back. The biggest problem is the size of the frames. On the referenced thread, 022's were modified. Less plastic and metal to remove. 5122's have the big rectangular bodies which would be a PITA to modify.
John- I have a pair of 042's on my layout, same as above- too much modification to do. The Scaletrax machines allow the switch points to move freely so powered non-derail is not necessary.
Thanks for the tips and suggestions guy's. More to come.
Bob
Quoth the Ghost of Christmas Yet To Come, “Expand... expand... expand”…
Layout expansion project underway.
Mocked up my track plan so I can start measuring for inclines. I will need to buy a few more pieces of track and some roadbed before I can start permanent mounting.
I completed the Altoona Model Works grain elevator, only the 2nd structure kit l've managed, with the pandemic. Really is a great kit...would be easy to build, except for instructions . I only mildly bashed this kit, need to photo it and the other "C-19" model done.
Mike: I am on board with modeltrainparts, my wife surprised me with the Harbor Freight flat creeper at $19 and I used it for all my construction so far. Great value and works great too
Don
Don, I've had one for many years now, propped the back up to a comfortable position, love it.
Hi guys, I just didn't think something like that would roll easy and be height enough.
Graham, that's quite the undertaking! Its looking really good. I can't wait to see the next step!
I promised it a LC 2.0 diesel on-the-way...Wife mad.....
@mike g. posted:
I love printer parts too Mike. Lot's of DC motors and gear drives
@RSJB18 posted:I love printer parts too Mike. Lot's of DC motors and gear drives
Bob, you are so right. The stuff you can get out of a broken printer you can automate almost anything you can think of. That's what I need the motors for, I have a few ideas brewing upstairs! LOL
I finished a mock up of the retaining wall and tunnel project. The finished product will be printed images on card stock, with balsa added for dimension. The area behind the wall will be carved rigid foam. The two arcs on the template are my upper and lower rail lines. Time to break out the scissors and glue.
Bob
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Bob, now that is going to be interesting. I am guessing the line that goes under the wall is your upper line. I will be watching to see how it turns out.
Thanks for sharing, could be a future project! LOL
The wall is going to be great, Bob!
Jeff, two extra days with the grandchildren! Sounds like a win for you entertaining with trains, but a lose for Mum and Dad! $$