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The plan was: Phase transformer and 135W powerhouse brick.  Then replace the transformer feed with the Powerhouse for the Legacy Powermaster.  Add voltmeter to monitor the track voltage when using powermaster.  I don't use the conventional/command switch, but just keep the powermaster in conventional. I turn up power full for legacy control. 

What was done.   

Phase Transformer

To keep phasing, paint one side of the transformer plug red, the one that goes in the small, hot side of the socket.   Also paint the equivelent side of the outlet on my power strip, so I can tell without glasses which side to use.   

Plug in Powerhouse, set Powermaster back to 135 watt.  How did it get set to 180W?  Maybe I should tape it down with grandkids around.

Hooked up voltmeter and system shorts.   Take a hard look at the voltmeter I bought many moons ago and there is a small ammeter symbol on it.   OK, hook it up to the "A" main from the powermaster.   It works and shows how much load the engines are pulling.   Now to get a true voltmeter.   

Install remote control power plug.   Thanks for the tip Gunnrunner John.  No more reaching into power area to turn on power.   Also a good "emergency shut off"

Solid core main wires from Legacy and Powermaster to track distribution block broke at the ends again when re-assembling.   Good wires, but for layout use they have proven too brittle.  Replace with multistrand wires.  Add round terminals to wires for powermaster and legacy connections.  So they easily tighten and don't come loose.

Find that one Lionel Plug and Play connector running my Track signal has shorted and melted itself together and no longer works.   Remove the melted distribution link from the Plug and Play distribution block.   Put in a new Plug and Play connector for the signal.   This time make sure the unused ground wire is taped over, no matter how impossible it would be to ground out.

Then the package arrived.  Add the BRLT to the new to me K-line Big Boy.  No more 9v batteries leaking in my trains.

And this time the fixes are permanent, right?

Last edited by VHubbard
@mike g. posted:

Thanks John! I am about ready to see if I can get connection with my tablet as I don't see myself getting up much for the next few days. But I want to be able to keep up on what everyone is getting done on their layouts and all the fun they are having!

Well it’s a good opportunity to keep on top of everything going on on the Forum!  I hope I have something to post.

Mike G good luck on the knee surgery. Hope that you are pleasantly surprised with the recovery.

Rich was here this afternoon and graduated to “Experienced Turnout Installer Including Wiring, DCS control, Lantern, and Final Adjustment.” We completed the install on the two Ross 4-way turnouts etal. The etal part is step by step until done.

Next up, tunnels, retaining walls, bridges, put away Christmas trains, and install Roanoke star.

@mike g. posted:

Well guys as for me I know I haven't been here for a couple days and I am sorry for that, I have been trying to get as much done on the layout before my knee surgery on Wednesday. I was able to get my great cut out in the main bench work leading down to my future staging yard that will be under the layout.



I hope you all have a great week, but most of all I hope you all find time to have fun with your layout and trains!

Mike;

Best wishes for a successful surgery and a quick and complete recovery. I’ve had two total knees replacements done and the improvement to my mobility after each was amazing. Hopefully you’ll be able to tap dance on top of the layout when your done

Worked on my lower level in the turnaround loop.  Figured I better solder track connections before I place another level over it - which will make access more difficult.  My test mule Lionel FM w/ Pulmor motor purred around the loop.  Soldering was made do-able with a vintage Weller 8200, recommended here & bought off de bay for $35 delivered.C38FE70E-89C9-4C31-BEDF-782394AFB636

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I build with 1/4" lauan and 1x2 T or L ladder frames. Will add felt under track. Sections with terrain drop down, I lay the track on a 1x3 pine board. Carpet padding will be under the bench work. No road bed required. The rest of the room will be industrial Street running with a small yard and marine Howe truss bridge for car floats. All standing eye level view.

Last edited by SIRT
@Mark Boyce posted:

Steve, you are moving right along nicely!

Trestleking, the turnback loop looks nice!  What material are the roadbed sections.

Mike, take care of the knee for a full recovery!

@Mark Boyce,  I wish I could tell you the proper name of the plywood for the roadbed !  It's some sort of cabinet grade "stable" 1/2" plywood from my local lumberyard.   After I cut the lower loop's pieces I realized I needed a wider footprint to capture any derailments so I cut fill-in pieces from some cheap 1/2" stuff I had on hand.  A low guard rail will also be installed after track screwdown occurs.

@trestleking posted:

@Mark Boyce,  I wish I could tell you the proper name of the plywood for the roadbed !  It's some sort of cabinet grade "stable" 1/2" plywood from my local lumberyard.   After I cut the lower loop's pieces I realized I needed a wider footprint to capture any derailments so I cut fill-in pieces from some cheap 1/2" stuff I had on hand.  A low guard rail will also be installed after track screwdown occurs.

That sounds like good material for the roadbed.  Good thing you have a plan for derailments!

The SG Ives 116 Station arrived Wednesday 1/11. Unboxed it and set it in place on The VintageHubby's new (currently being created) Wide Gauge/Standard Gauge on-the-floor Basement Layout. Its on the lower platform, so lighting under the bottom of the upper platform is currently getting sorted. Then chased and bagged up all the packing peanuts from this box and another large train packing box n the Foyer in the evening.

IMG_2085

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Last edited by Carey TeaRose

Spent part of the day trying to get Woodland Scenics figures to stay upright with a bit of glue under their feet. Had to come up with ways to prop them up.

I use a hot glue gun. A little dab on a foot and set in place. The glue cools and sets in a few seconds. You can remove them by heating the glue again with a heat gun.

2021-11-26 19.20.072021-11-26 19.25.34

Lurch needed a little clean up with a razor blade after I set him in place.

Bob

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@RSJB18 posted:

I use a hot glue gun. A little dab on a foot and set in place. The glue cools and sets in a few seconds. You can remove them by heating the glue again with a heat gun.

2021-11-26 19.20.072021-11-26 19.25.34

Lurch needed a little clean up with a razor blade after I set him in place.

Bob

I do the same - a dab of hot glue.

I find no need to reheat - could usually just pop the figure off with a small screwdriver

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