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My next journey into the unknown is LEDs. The only time I have used LEDs was with the TW TrainWorx Rock Island Freight House kit. It was provided in the kit and went under the flat roof like this:

065FC1B8-05F5-40A5-9E08-9505F8E2D34D

The reason why I chose this engine house, is because you can see inside.....so, I want to light it up. My modular group colleague, Ken (Kanawha on the OGR Forum), suggested I look at Evans Designs....which I will do.....

Here are the challenges that I'm looking at:

1. Never really done this before.....never even planned it

2. My theoretical electrical knowledge is very rudimentary. My wiring ability is limited to simple set ups. However, I have been successful at DCS and TMCC accessory and switch control on a 14x24 and 6x16 layouts (but, it does not look pretty)

3. I want to use my 14 volt from my transformer to keep it simple.

4. My ignorance on the topic makes me worry about what am I not considering; and/or what am I missing?

In these pictures you will see the small holes at the top of the structural supports. This is where the lights will go and I will have to snake the wires down an inside wall to the power source....the building has 5 of these supports.....

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So, over the next week or so, I figure to be doing a lot of reading and researching.

You modelers who have done this, what have you done?

Peter

Peter, I used two different varieties of lighting for my Korber roundhouse.

First, I installed about 8-10 old-fashioned green shade goose neck drop lights. They accepted 14-16 acv, so I drilled small holes up through  the rafters and ran the poles and wires out the top side of the rafter and then along the tops of the rafters to the back and down the back wall and out. If you are interested in this look, I believe someone makes them with LED's now which probably give off better lighting.

They weren't bright enough for me, so I bought some 3/16" Plastruct open girders; painted them to match the rafter color; and installed them upside down on the bottom of the rafter so they blended right in. I then got some LED strips from Evan Designs and glued them into the open girder and ran the wires along the rafter, again to the back wall and out. They also accept acv, but I'm not sure your rafters are wide enough to make this look right.   

The wires are black, but I painted them to match my rafter color (brown) and blend in a little more.

A few bad pic's attached.RH INTERIOR 1RH INTERIOR 2RH INTERIOR 3RH INTERIOR 4RH INTERIOR 5RH INTERIOR 6RH INTERIOR 7RH INTERIOR 8

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Last edited by Richie C.
@Richie C. posted:

Peter, I used two different varieties of lighting for my Korber roundhouse.

First, I installed about 8-10 old-fashioned green shade goose neck drop lights. They accepted 14-16 acv, so I drilled small holes up through  the rafters and ran the poles and wires out the top side of the rafter and then along the tops of the rafters to the back and down the back wall and out. If you are interested in this look, I believe someone makes them with LED's now which probably give off better lighting.

They weren't bright enough for me, so I bought some 3/16" Plastruct open girders; painted them to match the rafter color; and installed them upside down on the bottom of the rafter so they blended right in. I then got some LED strips from Evan Designs and glued them into the open girder and ran the wires along the rafter, again to the back wall and out. They also accept acv, but I'm not sure your rafters are wide enough to make this look right.   

The wires are black, but I painted them to match my rafter color (brown) and blend in a little more.

A few bad pic's attached.RH INTERIOR 1RH INTERIOR 2RH INTERIOR 3RH INTERIOR 4RH INTERIOR 5RH INTERIOR 6RH INTERIOR 7RH INTERIOR 8

Thank you, that was very helpful!

Peter

Peter we have enjoyed watching your layout build. It is going to be spectacular. Are you interested in the roundhouse lighting, the overall layout lighting, or both?

We have worked with Dave at Evan Designs whenever possible with lighting. He is not the cheapest but he builds LEDs that work and are easily wired.

Our roundhouse is a seven stall Dennis Brennan structure that has 80-90 3mm LEDs. Dave furnished the lights which are the typical green shade type. We wired the building so that we can control each stall separately if we decide to do so.

One way to hide the wires is to run them in small brass tubing painted the color of your walls. It appears to be conduit which is to be expected.

An alternative to regular lighting is Miller Engineering fluorescent lights. We used these in the diesel shops and it gives a different look from the steam shops.

Dave has 10 volt transformers that simply plug in and are easily connected. We used one for the roundhouse. This does away with the chance of the power being changed and the LEDs burning out. Doug Kearney had this problem with his roundhouse and had to replace the lighting. Better safe than sorry.

Our engine service facility has 9-10 buildings not including the roundhouse and probably an equal number of other structures, most of which are lit. 6-8 floodlights light the area. We guess that we have 500 -700 LEDs.

Lights are controlled by an AIU (MTH DCS) and control day, night, both day and night, special effects, signs, and floodlights. We did the lighting and, with Dave’s help, it was not difficult.

Our passenger station has maybe 200 LEDs and are on a separate 10 volt transformer. Paula and Rich handled this building and it is 90% complete.

The left side of the layout will have a couple towns and many buildings that we have built; all have interiors. The grandkids asked three years ago where the buildings were so we got them out and  temporarily connected the lights.

We would be glad to help you with lighting. If you want to take a look at what has been done, Suffolk is fairly close.

Our layout is not close to being completed. The right side engine service area is 80% done; the second and third levels end in bridges to nowhere. But the right side lighting and wiring, etc are basically complete.

If you want to send us an e-mail, the info is in our profile.

Last edited by Bill Webb

Steve, your boarded up building looks top shelf!!

Peter, your engine house is looking great!  Richie and Bill, you both have done a great job.  I’m taking it all in, since I haven’t lit any of my buildings, but have made provisions with removable roofs and even a removable second story on the signal tower.  The Carolina Craftsman Kits Thomas, West Virginia two stall engine house and two story station are crying to be lit, but they can wait.

Speaking of lighting, I took some time away from top level roadbed building to install my first Rod Stewart passenger car light kit.  It is based on a Gunrunnerjohn module that I bought back in 2015 and never installed any.  Here is the first car.  It is a RailKing 60’ car special order by the Community Model Railroad Club as a fundraiser based on Western Maryland Scenic Railroad cars.  I have 6 cars and 2 more are on order.  The LEDs will be so much better than the incandescent lights especially when I run this train on my Ceiling Central Railroad 6’ 9” off the floor.  I’m only 5’ 11’ and I look right into the ceiling of the cars into the bright bulbs.

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@Mark Boyce posted:

Steve, your boarded up building looks top shelf!!

Peter, your engine house is looking great!  Richie and Bill, you both have done a great job.  I’m taking it all in, since I haven’t lit any of my buildings, but have made provisions with removable roofs and even a removable second story on the signal tower.  The Carolina Craftsman Kits Thomas, West Virginia two stall engine house and two story station are crying to be lit, but they can wait.

Speaking of lighting, I took some time away from top level roadbed building to install my first Rod Stewart passenger car light kit.  It is based on a Gunrunnerjohn module that I bought back in 2015 and never installed any.  Here is the first car.  It is a RailKing 60’ car special order by the Community Model Railroad Club as a fundraiser based on Western Maryland Scenic Railroad cars.  I have 6 cars and 2 more are on order.  The LEDs will be so much better than the incandescent lights especially when I run this train on my Ceiling Central Railroad 6’ 9” off the floor.  I’m only 5’ 11’ and I look right into the ceiling of the cars into the bright bulbs.

1E397AD1-B46D-4AE8-9696-94A7BFA56E99

Hey, Mark.  What is a Rod Stewart passenger car light kit?

@Bill Webb posted:

Peter we have enjoyed watching your layout build. It is going to be spectacular. Are you interested in the roundhouse lighting, the overall layout lighting, or both?

We have worked with Dave at Evan Designs whenever possible with lighting. He is not the cheapest but he builds LEDs that work and are easily wired.

Our roundhouse is a seven stall Dennis Brennan structure that has 80-90 3mm LEDs. Dave furnished the lights which are the typical green shade type. We wired the building so that we can control each stall separately if we decide to do so.

One way to hide the wires is to run them in small brass tubing painted the color of your walls. It appears to be conduit which is to be expected.

An alternative to regular lighting is Miller Engineering fluorescent lights. We used these in the diesel shops and it gives a different look from the steam shops.

Dave has 10 volt transformers that simply plug in and are easily connected. We used one for the roundhouse. This does away with the chance of the power being changed and the LEDs burning out. Doug Kearney had this problem with his roundhouse and had to replace the lighting. Better safe than sorry.

Our engine service facility has 9-10 buildings not including the roundhouse and probably an equal number of other structures, most of which are lit. 6-8 floodlights light the area. We guess that we have 500 -700 LEDs.

Lights are controlled by an AIU (MTH DCS) and control day, night, both day and night, special effects, signs, and floodlights. We did the lighting and, with Dave’s help, it was not difficult.

Our passenger station has maybe 200 LEDs and are on a separate 10 volt transformer. Paula and Rich handled this building and it is 90% complete.

The left side of the layout will have a couple towns and many buildings that we have built; all have interiors. The grandkids asked three years ago where the buildings were so we got them out and  temporarily connected the lights.

We would be glad to help you with lighting. If you want to take a look at what has been done, Suffolk is fairly close.

Our layout is not close to being completed. The right side engine service area is 80% done; the second and third levels end in bridges to nowhere. But the right side lighting and wiring, etc are basically complete.

If you want to send us an e-mail, the info is in our profile.

Thank you, Bill, great information!

Peter

Last edited by Putnam Division
@RSJB18 posted:

I continued cleaning up the garage yesterday following the house renovations. My goal is to get the 2nd car back in before we get any snow. That being said, it's near 50 with rain later today on LI with no sign of any snow soon.

I was reorganizing my lumber rack and came across some old shelving that I wanted to use for train storage. I have limited space but the window sill above the back of the layout has room for a second level. I figured I'd build a quick shelf while I still had my bench set up in the garage. Then I found a wire shelf that my son isn't using anymore and presto.....more train storage.

2023-01-21 14.53.56

Regrettably (or not), I still have more engines than room to store them........

Bob

Well, Bob… if you cut some 1” x support pieces tall enough to lower the shelf so it’s closer to the 1st level of trains, you could definitely fit a 3rd shelf in the window Then you’d definitely have room to (at least) display the rumored D&H Sharks

@Apples55 posted:

Well, Bob… if you cut some 1” x support pieces tall enough to lower the shelf so it’s closer to the 1st level of trains, you could definitely fit a 3rd shelf in the window Then you’d definitely have room to (at least) display the rumored D&H Sharks

I could do that Paul but I figure I'll wait and do it eventually so the CEO doesn't notice the sudden increase in motive power. 🤣🤣

Last edited by RSJB18

Wow, there’s so much going on this fun to read thread. @DrSteveDC, wow, your layout is looking fine, and your post war accessories bring back great memories. @Putnam Division, Wow, your moving right along, and that’s a great project, TW Trainworx Rock Island Freight House, it’s going to be cool., I’m getting ready to go to work on my switches, then set up routes. Great work everyone. 24005F29-84ED-4E17-BB14-8B6E7A77FBEF38C6F5FC-A563-46D2-9A7B-C9490AF63A0BF9853EEB-BE33-4939-9993-503D73455CA0189D976D-7D84-41C6-A7E1-500F0284503F

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Work has not stopped on the layout. I was able to restock on materials and finish the hill structure. Next, I will cover it in plaster cloth and paint it.

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While I was in the area I finally decided to paint my grade crossings. I used a thin coat of brown paint and a paper towel to coat the wood. Definitely makes it look more realistic.
E4C00DF4-7FDE-47BD-87D8-AB5BC3E6B820
Finally, I added some ground cover in the surrounding area.
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Thanks for reading!

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Work has not stopped on the layout. I was able to restock on materials and finish the hill structure. Next, I will cover it in plaster cloth and paint it.

5F046132-ADDB-48E4-A50E-4AE96B579C3C0D41360E-D5AE-451E-87BC-0B6BB6AA4F0CED455CC7-2CA2-40B2-A1D1-0EB0CF042AB2F5D20E5B-C849-433B-9AA6-5AD81D572165

While I was in the area I finally decided to paint my grade crossings. I used a thin coat of brown paint and a paper towel to coat the wood. Definitely makes it look more realistic.
E4C00DF4-7FDE-47BD-87D8-AB5BC3E6B820
Finally, I added some ground cover in the surrounding area.
9D283864-8E5E-4FD0-812E-EC4CBF94BAAF379EB3E9-C5B8-4E62-AA32-82B2703800CA08B560A4-11C2-4802-8BC1-211714FCBF4D
Thanks for reading!

Why not leave the mountain as is and call it the kaleidoscope mountain? I have other timesavers, just saying.

@Trainmaster04, that’s a nice tunnel and I think your tunnel portals are rare, Hillside, as most of Lionel’s portals say Lionel. I thought you might like to know that and your scenery work looks great. Also I like the way you’re doing your roads going across the track, it’s nice. The Plasticville church is in a nice setting. Today I just took some pictures for reviewing before changes will be made. Happy Railroading Everyone 80453AD0-6062-4983-8544-CD49E1EA6D4DA27E042B-B984-47D5-B2C2-75483B81B466221D8C35-0E32-4BB0-9EDB-DA457F9ABA8758D435AF-EAE4-4D78-8822-4FB4CD65891D3350F4EE-7D51-4C4B-9A3C-73AA8B2C7993

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Morning guys I hope you all have a fun weekend planned! I am sorry that I have been gone for a while. Ihad to go back to the last page to get up to speed on what everyone is doing with there layouts! I do have to say that there is alot of outstanding work and show of amazing skills! I normally comment on everyones work but there is definitely so much that has been done that it would take a full page.

So I wil just get you all up todate on my progress. It has been a slow process with my knee killing me, but I cant stand sitting on my rear with so much to get done. I have figured out that I am going to be short on track, but the table still needs to be built. I have been lucky that a friend that works for the local wood mill was able to get me a stack of 2x12's so I didn't have to buy any lumber for the frame, just had to cut them down to 2x4's! Then another neighbor was so nice enough to offer me a full sheet of 1/2" plywood.

Here are a couple of photos to prove that I have been slowly at work! LOL

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The plywood is just sitting there and I will layout the track before I cut anything. I plan on having an open center so I will be able to get the the track under the upper level just in case something happens. As you can see there is still alot to do, but it is moving forward.

I hope you all are well and are having fun with your layout and trains!

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I've been washing-up and repairing my ol' dirty Madison heavyweight 2600's.

The windows had yellowed, cracked, shrunk, and looked poorly, and most of the bulbs had died.

So, I am replacing the window silhouettes and adding LED strips to the ceilings. I've read up on those LED voltage stabilizers and all, but some of my old cars are looking kinda rough and might not be up to the whole  investment of the electronics cost and time, so I have simply joined the two roller pick-ups to help prevent the common rolling/flickering and the hi-lo voltage range these LED strips cheerfully tolerate 5~24 volts. They do get a little brighter/dimmer through the range but it looks pretty good and the net cost of materials per car is under $2. I also put some red tail lights on the tenders that have the location/holes ready for it. The small plugs make it easy to service of you need to open the car/tender.



EDIT: and just because I'm ADD as heII, I also put green markers in the 2065 'hair curler'

20230127_214824



LED Mini Plugs

3mm 12 volt red LEDs

12 volt Warm White LED strip

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  • Tender LED tail lights: Tender LED tail lights
  • Tender LED tail lights: Tender LED tail lights
  • Madison new silhouette windows and LED lighting: Madison new silhouette windows and LED lighting
  • Manhattan Madison with new silhouettes & LED: Manhattan Madison with new silhouettes & LED
  • 2065 with LED registration markers/lanterns: 2065 with LED registration markers/lanterns
Last edited by woodsyT

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