@gunrunnerjohn posted:Note sound exits front of speaker and holes are directly below, see markings. Given the size and shape of the tender, it's probably about as good as they could do. This is the standard configuration for 3rd Rail Vanderbilt tenders of that era. It actually doesn't do at all bad...
John, do the boards come with TVS protection, or is that something you add during installation?
George
@SIRT posted:More Jobs...
Steve ,is that rotary tool like a Foredom brand ?
I've been looking for something like that to do some micro wood carving on a couple projects.
Power unit is an H1OS model clt-50 yaesu, Japan. Obtained it in the 80's. Screw Driver is cl-6500 24V. Might be some on ebay?
Putting a new to me MTH RS-3 w/PS2 through a full maintenance. First step is always the battery. Discovered that I have a flaking speaker too. Parts are on order with @GRJ. Once the power and sound are tested, I'm going to add figures and cab lights.
Bob
Bob, what you are undertaking with your engines is very impressive. It’s cultivating the idea that I should learn the process. Although, I lack your electronic insights.
Jay
@RSJB18 posted:Putting a new to me MTH RS-3 w/PS2 through a full maintenance. First step is always the battery. Discovered that I have a flaking speaker too. Parts are on order with @GRJ. Once the power and sound are tested, I'm going to add figures and cab lights.
Bob
Nice looking engine Bob. Love the idea of using smoke unit batting for a speaker baffle (at least I think that is what you used).
John
@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:Bob, what you are undertaking with your engines is very impressive. It’s cultivating the idea that I should learn the process. Although, I lack your electronic insights.
Jay
Jay- As a licensed electrician, I am very comfortable with wiring and troubleshooting. I'm not skilled enough with electronics to do some of the work that the guru's on here can, but I won't shy away from replacing components if given the proper direction.
Reminds me of my first car, I wasn't much of a gear head growing up but when faced with repairs I couldn't afford, I figured it out with a little help from my friends. Paul McCartney had it right....
Thanks
@Craftech posted:Nice looking engine Bob. Love the idea of using smoke unit batting for a speaker baffle (at least I think that is what you used).
John
The batting was there when I opened it up. First time I've seen it so it must have been added by the previous owner.
Thanks
I’m with you on that. I’m reminded of my favorite Dilbert cartoon where he’s standing over a new, confused employee who’s typing at a PC and says ‘Go ahead, you can’t break it’. The next frame shows a big explosion, and the final frame has them all disheveled and the PC ripped open and Dilbert says ‘Well, in my defense, that hardly ever happens’.
@RSJB18 posted:The batting was there when I opened it up. First time I've seen it so it must have been added by the previous owner.
Thanks
Inside the tender of the Lionel 0-8-0 there is no room for the paint spray caps people recommended for a baffle, styrofoam cups aren't sold anymore, and nothing else seems to work because the tender narrows above the speaker (where the coal load is located). The batting looks like a great solution.
I'll use the smoke unit "ropes" I have or one can even use the wicks from a TIKI torch.
John
@Craftech posted:Inside the tender of the Lionel 0-8-0 there is no room for the paint spray caps people recommended for a baffle, styrofoam cups aren't sold anymore, and nothing else seems to work because the tender narrows above the speaker (where the coal load is located).
I have thin wall 2" PVC pipe from a built-in vacuum system. I cut it to size on the bandsaw and then add a styrene top cut to size and glued on. That means I can make a custom height baffle that will fit in most places.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:I have thin wall 2" PVC pipe from a built-in vacuum system. I cut it to size on the bandsaw and then add a styrene top cut to size and glued on. That means I can make a custom height baffle that will fit in most places.
Didn't think of that. I have the same stuff in my garage from when I built the house.
Thanks 
John
@Craftech posted:Inside the tender of the Lionel 0-8-0 there is no room for the paint spray caps people recommended for a baffle, styrofoam cups aren't sold anymore, and nothing else seems to work because the tender narrows above the speaker (where the coal load is located). The batting looks like a great solution.
I'll use the smoke unit "ropes" I have or one can even use the wicks from a TIKI torch.
John
One cheap trick I use is to buy a small pack of Dixie cups, like the ones sold for mouthwash, etc. They can be cut down to size with a pair of scissors and then glued to the back or front of a speaker. Being just paper I didn't think they would work well, but surprisingly, they do a pretty fair job as a baffle!
George
@GeoPeg posted:One cheap trick I use is to buy a small pack of Dixie cups, like the ones sold for mouthwash, etc. They can be cut down to size with a pair of scissors and then glued to the back or front of a speaker. Being just paper I didn't think they would work well, but surprisingly, they do a pretty fair job as a baffle!
George
Good to know George.
Thanks
John
@SIRT posted:Power unit is an H1OS model clt-50 yaesu, Japan. Obtained it in the 80's. Screw Driver is cl-6500 24V. Might be some on ebay?
Thanks Steve.
Sirt, I just saw your Boars Head truck, it looks fantastic. What truck did you use? Thanks, John
Re-painted an old Athearn 1:50 scale Ford C W.P. box van, no longer made. Found a Boars Head sign on the net, re- sized it using excel. Printed out on photo paper. Covered with matte clear spray. Applied Loctite spray adhesive. Did an REA truck and MTH pup vans the same way.
Thanks.
Converted another K-Line PRR coach to Chicago and Northwestern.
I picked up a 2343 AA Set. Olsen's Diagrams seems to be offline. So where does 1 find a Diagram of the 2343 with the Parts Breakdown? I need to order a few parts.
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