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Thanks Barry. I've got lightbulbs and filters coming my way to play around with. 

 

Another quick question - going back to the earlier post on page 1 regarding lack of any major change with/without a new-ish MTH lighted passenger car on the track. I would have thought the bulbs in the cars (or the switch tower accessory I had hooked up to track power, now removed) had 18 volt bulbs in them. Wrong? 

I couldn't read the label on your light socket, might want to check it now. The "standard" code it should be labeled as, is an E10. Same as the bulbs you ordered. There are other sockets, pretty close in diameter, both larger and smaller, used in other, "non-train" applications.(like EXIT signs for instance) Adapters do exist for E10bulbs into E12bases, etc., but a proper base is just as cheap or cheaper.

 I think ideally the lamp should be statically located on the TUI outputs, before the track.

The extra light bothers some folks, paint it, build a cover, etc

  

Had a feeling that white socket was an E12. It will not matter which lead goes where. An incandescent bulb does not care which leads are used where. Most often the threaded portion receives ground, but that is because many dc circuits use chassis grounds, those bases have mounts that connect the chassis to the threaded portion without wire. Putting the ground on the threads side is not a hard and fast rule and the bulb will light equally as well either way.    

Originally Posted by Adriatic:

Note: A new style LED replacement bulb would likely have to be properly polarized before use, and it likely wouldn't work for a filter here. I just wanted you to realize this as LEDs replace normal bulbs in the future, there is a difference.  

This has absolutely no bearing on the topic!  Since the purpose of the bulb is to supply a resistive load for termination of the track signal, the LED is a non-starter here.

Anyone able to suggest a fast and RELIABLE supplier for an 18 volt light bulb? The place I ordered from is now saying it is backordered and a quick search on them shows them less then reputable (guess I should've checked that first but...)

 

Been to every LHS (but one), Home Depot, hardware store, electronics store, etc in the county with no luck. Suggestions/links appreciated. 

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:
Originally Posted by Adriatic:

Note: A new style LED replacement bulb would likely have to be properly polarized before use, and it likely wouldn't work for a filter here. I just wanted you to realize this as LEDs replace normal bulbs in the future, there is a difference.  

This has absolutely no bearing on the topic!  Since the purpose of the bulb is to supply a resistive load for termination of the track signal, the LED is a non-starter here.

LED replacements with E-10 bases are sold all over now. Pushed as a long lasting replacement with not much "big" mention of factors other than the max voltage and light emitted. Considering the OPs lack of experience, and that he is in purchase mode, I thought he would appreciate a little info about them and that they do differ from normal bulbs that share the same base style. After consulting "counter help" its easy for a novice to walk out of stores with LEDs(or an E-12 base[sorry IVRR]).

 "The best teachers assume the student knows nothing" (not that Im actually qualified)  

Appreciate the help. The 18 volt bulbs are scheduled to arrive tomorrow and I sincerly hope they work. If the 18 volt bulbs and/or filters don't work, I've dusted off and unboxed my conventional controllers to go back to conventional operation. I'll deal with minor speed/power fluctuations. 

 

I received a tip via email regarding the Radio Shack #52 14.4 volt bulbs being a suitable "temporary" test. Me being the "willing to try pretty much anything at this point" person, I took a ride over to radio shack and got a pair but saw very little to no improvement in signal strength but couldn't get the whistle to stick. The soft keys were repeating constantly as the have and signal was still running from 7-9 with a few 10s. Not sure if the 14.4 is or is not a suitable work around for temporary occasions but I figured it couldn't hurt to try. 

 

Last night I again disassembled both loops and made two loops, both consisting over 0-27 and 0-42 180* turns at each end respectively with one 35" extra long straight in between the 180*s. Nothing more, nothing less. About as simple as a loop(s) as you can get. Also tightened all pins/track joints. Haven't tested it yet. Hope success happens. Have had layout using the same equipment for years on larger or smaller, more complex, more simple layouts and never an issue. Hope to change it. 

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